54LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
08-21-2009, 07:28 AM
#8987
08-21-2009, 09:49 AM
#8988
08-21-2009, 09:55 AM
#8989
Leave the stock parts in. If another front arm breaks, it's only a few bucks to replace. Better than replacing something more expensive. Just gotta watch out for those walls.... they jump out at times...
08-21-2009, 02:35 PM
#8990
08-21-2009, 05:19 PM
#8991
couple things, havent touched my b4 in a bit and had some questions lookin at it this evening.
1. What the heck happened to rc10b4.com chock full of spam as of july.
2. Anyone tell diff between carbon chassis and the plastic/composite 1? have 2 here. look like carbon units, but if not, i'd like to avoid buyin a 3rd chassis to find out.
thx
R
1. What the heck happened to rc10b4.com chock full of spam as of july.
2. Anyone tell diff between carbon chassis and the plastic/composite 1? have 2 here. look like carbon units, but if not, i'd like to avoid buyin a 3rd chassis to find out.
thx
R
08-21-2009, 07:17 PM
#8993
A way to be 100% sure that a chassis is graphite or not is to use a voltmeter set to read ohm resistance. The graphite chassis conducts electricity, the plastic composite one doesn't.
08-22-2009, 08:06 AM
#8994
08-22-2009, 11:15 AM
#8996
More top end?
Just got done building my FTB4 and took it out for a good test run. I have a Tekin RS ESC and 13.5 combo in it with a Poly Quest 2S 25C 5100 Lipo. Gearing is 81/30 with motor timing at 13 (No Hot Wire Yet). Ran pretty good for 16 minutes with some high speed runs and motor temped at 104F. What would be the best route to take to to get more top end, pinion or motor timing? I'll be getting the Hot Wire soon to increase my options. Thanks.
08-22-2009, 11:29 AM
#8997
Heat ,gear up first.
recommend a 72T spur & a 32T pinion
recommend a 72T spur & a 32T pinion
08-22-2009, 12:18 PM
#8998
Just got done building my FTB4 and took it out for a good test run. I have a Tekin RS ESC and 13.5 combo in it with a Poly Quest 2S 25C 5100 Lipo. Gearing is 81/30 with motor timing at 13 (No Hot Wire Yet). Ran pretty good for 16 minutes with some high speed runs and motor temped at 104F. What would be the best route to take to to get more top end, pinion or motor timing? I'll be getting the Hot Wire soon to increase my options. Thanks.
08-22-2009, 12:22 PM
#8999
wild cherry +1
Gear up first, then mess with timing.
I run a b4 with the SPX and Orion 13.5
I set all timing at zero and was geared at 72/32
I then increased motor timing by 5 degrees at a time to soften the bottom end through my punch profile was set at 2(which is low) until i maxed at 15 degrees motor timing. Then let the speed control do all the work with timing until I got a good feel. With the increase in RPM from the timing and SPX i ended up dropping another 2 teeth to drop my rpm a bit because dropping timing increased low end torque much more then going to a 30 tooth. So It kinda split the difference at a smaller rate. I know you have the Tekin but both speed controls are the top of the game as far as 13.5/17.5 world goes.
Gear up first, then mess with timing.
I run a b4 with the SPX and Orion 13.5
I set all timing at zero and was geared at 72/32
I then increased motor timing by 5 degrees at a time to soften the bottom end through my punch profile was set at 2(which is low) until i maxed at 15 degrees motor timing. Then let the speed control do all the work with timing until I got a good feel. With the increase in RPM from the timing and SPX i ended up dropping another 2 teeth to drop my rpm a bit because dropping timing increased low end torque much more then going to a 30 tooth. So It kinda split the difference at a smaller rate. I know you have the Tekin but both speed controls are the top of the game as far as 13.5/17.5 world goes.