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Old 07-29-2009, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
Had a stupid question for you guys. I have read in the past about making the rear A arms level and making the front and the rear ride height the same. But if you build a factory team kit it gives you shock collar settings that leave the A arms no wear near level witch is correct? And after you set the rear do you adjust the front to make the chassis level? And if so wear do you check it at? Thanks for any and all info.
what you do is get everything setup in you can like you are going to race and the drop it about 3-4 inches of the ground or table and look at it..try to adjust so the front and rear are even or around that
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:12 AM
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What i did was make the CVD bones level in the rear which will make the outsides of the arms a little high from level. Then i would adjust the front so it is a small amount higher than the rear.
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:30 AM
  #8718  
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Well, unlike most of you guys, my local track is not blue groove, clay or anything like that - we race on what I guess you'd consider to be "loamy" or soft dirt - I mean, we use step pins!

I'm looking at the latest Thielke set up using drilled blank pistons and a lot more washers for the camber links - but if anyone has a set up that works for these types of conditions running 13.5's let me know!


Thanks,
D
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:15 AM
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Anyone know where I can buy the Yocomo bleeder shock caps?? I had them before but forget. Can't seem to find them again. Thanks!
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigcheese View Post
Anyone know where I can buy the Yocomo bleeder shock caps?? I had them before but forget. Can't seem to find them again. Thanks!
if you got the extra screws that come w/ the yoks you can make some from the stock caps... or try searching for yokomo I just don't recall the specific part #.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Well, unlike most of you guys, my local track is not blue groove, clay or anything like that - we race on what I guess you'd consider to be "loamy" or soft dirt - I mean, we use step pins!

I'm looking at the latest Thielke set up using drilled blank pistons and a lot more washers for the camber links - but if anyone has a set up that works for these types of conditions running 13.5's let me know!


Thanks,
D
I have similar conditions. I use factory set-up links plus:
0 anti-squat
Green rear springs with 35wt
Brown front springs with 45wt
rear bones slightly above level
Front ride height to match rear (approx 22mm I think)


Try and make that baby dead as a door nail through the lumps.
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
if you got the extra screws that come w/ the yoks you can make some from the stock caps... or try searching for yokomo I just don't recall the specific part #.
I tried the search, but no luck.
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Old 07-29-2009, 04:54 PM
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heres my t4
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ae rat View Post
heres my t4
nice now good luck keeping the body clean
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:56 PM
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Hey guys, I started reading through this thread to try to find what I need but lost patience and couldn't get the thread search to work I am re-entering the hobby after a long hiatus and bought a B4. My last car was a Schumacher Couger 2 works (I loved that belt drive sound). Anyways, I am building up the components of my B4 and am a few items away. I need a few Lipo batterries and am wondering what you recommend? Trakpower 4900 seem pretty common. I can grab a few Orion 3800's from the local track cheap.

I also need a servo. What works well in the B4? Mid to High range recomendations would be good.

Thanks!
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:04 PM
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First of all, welcome back. Second, on servos, i have experience with three. first is a Futaba BLS-451 which is what i am using in my truck right now. Great servo, super fast. Next is a Futaba s-9402. Also very fast and plenty of power. Third is a KO propo 2343. Also a good servo. Been running that in my b4. I would say as long as you go with a good brand servo that has at least 110 oz/in of torque and at least .10 to 60* you will be fine.

Now on batteries, i run thunder power 5000 40c. I have a SMC 5000 28c. Just remember in off road you dont need all the power a batt can put out all the time. For running stock, i reccomend a very good batt because you are wanting to get every bit of juice. But for mod or even 13.5 you usually have more motor and batt than you need. Its all about making laps.

Trak powers are good. I dont really care for orion batts (my opinion). The IP's are good. Fantom, Thunder power, SMC.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:15 AM
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Default Shock Springs?

Is it recomended to get the different front and rear springs for the B4?
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by lem2 View Post
Is it recomended to get the different front and rear springs for the B4?
Grab yourself a front and rear spring kit, you can then experiment with tuning and find what suits your style and track.
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:01 AM
  #8729  
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
Had a stupid question for you guys. I have read in the past about making the rear A arms level and making the front and the rear ride height the same. But if you build a factory team kit it gives you shock collar settings that leave the A arms no wear near level witch is correct? And after you set the rear do you adjust the front to make the chassis level? And if so wear do you check it at? Thanks for any and all info.
So you do want to adjust the rear shocks so the dog bones are level and then make the front ride hight the same as the back? Is that correct (on the T4 that is.) Thanks
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:10 AM
  #8730  
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
So you do want to adjust the rear shocks so the dog bones are level and then make the front ride hight the same as the back? Is that correct (on the T4 that is.) Thanks
As a general rule, rear at bones level, front at arms level.
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