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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-14-2009, 12:07 PM
  #8206  
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Mod should the class for determining the best driver, because the driver not only have to deal with all the factors in stock, but also the control of speed and power along with all other elements such as driving lines, jumps etc.. Being able to put down the "optimum" amount of power is perhaps the most challenging thing in off road.
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Old 06-14-2009, 12:59 PM
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back in the b4 camp. have this together and did some running just to get used to it again. and i'm havin an issue out back. cant get the ride height in the rear anywhere close to where i want it (25mm). still on black springs from kit and havent gotten around to buying some greens. however i dont see that as the answer. car is free (tore down and looked for binds) and presently is weighted to 1500g. the only deviation on this car from my previous car in '07 was the previous owner (who didnt finished building the car) outfitted it with 'b44' arms. i see different part #s but have no reference from the old days to compare it too. could this be the issue thats keepin me from gettin RH in the rear. front is fine, rebuilt rear shocks (yes the correct shafts are on the correct end) already inside top and inside bottom for location. puzzled at this point. is there a difference in this arm that requires a change? runnin outta ideas.

thx

R
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Old 06-14-2009, 01:10 PM
  #8208  
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Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
the only deviation on this car from my previous car in '07 was the previous owner outfitted it with 'b44' arms. could this be the issue thats keepin me from gettin RH in the rear. front is fine, rebuilt rear shocks (yes the correct shafts are on the correct end) already inside top and inside bottom for location. puzzled at this point. is there a difference in this arm that requires a change? runnin outta ideas.

thx

R
The only differences between the B4 and B44 rear arms are the extra ball stud for the sway bar mount and the material they are molded out of. The geometry is the same. Do you have ant internal limiters in the shock? If so, maybe you have too many?
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Old 06-14-2009, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by UK.hardcore View Post
Thing is with stock you need to know better how to keep your speed,
because if you lose some its harder to get it back then in mod.
+1
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Old 06-14-2009, 02:56 PM
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well rebuilt the shocks again. checked total length of both against each other. 1 turn out. now surely equal (mic'd). no limiters in there to start with. back together with losi 25. inner/inner. just doesnt hack it. cant get more than about 22mm height. i know i need greens, but that shouldnt dictate RH. ugh

R
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague View Post
Speaking of the straight away. My T4 would come completely unglued about 1/3 the way down the front straight. It appeared as if the truck would lift up and loose all traction in the rear. Could I be getting air under the chassis? Any info will help.
Sounds like your rear tires are balloning up on you. Very hard to control a truck down the strait when you only have 1/4 inch of rubber on the ground.

Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
well rebuilt the shocks again. checked total length of both against each other. 1 turn out. now surely equal (mic'd). no limiters in there to start with. back together with losi 25. inner/inner. just doesnt hack it. cant get more than about 22mm height. i know i need greens, but that shouldnt dictate RH. ugh

R
So you cant get your buggy to bones level with the black springs? I assume you have down travel from ride height? I know my collars were almost all the way down when I ran the black spring but could get bones level. Thats with brushless and 3600 lipo. I do think that greens are better in the back at least at the few tracks Ive been to. They only need one turn of the collar to be at ride height.

DK
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
Sounds like your rear tires are balloning up on you. Very hard to control a truck down the strait when you only have 1/4 inch of rubber on the ground.
DK
I think you're right. That would cause the vehicle to lift up down the straight. Right?
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:10 PM
  #8213  
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague View Post
I think you're right. That would cause the vehicle to lift up down the straight. Right?
Correct, what motor are you using?
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtdustingdavo View Post
Correct, what motor are you using?
Tekin Redline 7.5 geared 25/87. I'm thinking of gearing to 25/84 to settle the bottom end down.
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rcman1993 View Post
+1
Hate to burst your bubble rcman, but the fastest mod drivers in the world can wheel it in spec classes. It's not necessarily the other way around. There hasn't been an IFMAR worlds stock championship in decades, maybe that should be a hint.
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:21 PM
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come up just short b4 i slip off the body threads, if i push it up to full travel it'll stop and settle up near the top. just wont 'recover' to a rest position of 25mm. gonna throw greens on and see what happens. i see u said 3600. if u have a lipo and next to no lead. perhaps i can see that. i'm up at, just over 1500g. i'll keep diggin...

R
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:27 PM
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noticed all this motor debate crud, thought a b4 thread would only be littered with a bunch of us old crusty RC vets. i run a 10.5 in mod b/c its what i feel i can handle and we only run mod. who runs stock buggy for anythin other than a 'big' race. honestly. dont think any1 does on this side of ole miss. well anywho, i'm quicker with the 10.5 than i was with mod (brushless that is, brushed was too long ago and we DID run stock-back when you couldnt run mod til you qualified to do so).

pick you poison and just accept there will be people faster than you, equal motor or otherwise.

R
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:29 PM
  #8218  
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Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
back in the b4 camp. have this together and did some running just to get used to it again. and i'm havin an issue out back. cant get the ride height in the rear anywhere close to where i want it (25mm). still on black springs from kit and havent gotten around to buying some greens. however i dont see that as the answer. car is free (tore down and looked for binds) and presently is weighted to 1500g. the only deviation on this car from my previous car in '07 was the previous owner (who didnt finished building the car) outfitted it with 'b44' arms. i see different part #s but have no reference from the old days to compare it too. could this be the issue thats keepin me from gettin RH in the rear. front is fine, rebuilt rear shocks (yes the correct shafts are on the correct end) already inside top and inside bottom for location. puzzled at this point. is there a difference in this arm that requires a change? runnin outta ideas.

thx

R
Try the offset spring cups, part #9724.
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:08 PM
  #8219  
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Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
come up just short b4 i slip off the body threads, if i push it up to full travel it'll stop and settle up near the top. just wont 'recover' to a rest position of 25mm. gonna throw greens on and see what happens. i see u said 3600. if u have a lipo and next to no lead. perhaps i can see that. i'm up at, just over 1500g. i'll keep diggin...

R
Sounds like you have sticktion in your shocks. Dirty seals will do that. Try this. Drop the car from 4 inchs. Then pick up each tire, one at a time, about and inch and drop it. That will help with the sticktion and show the true ride hight.
Im a little over 1500 grams also.

DK
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
If a driver has a faster spec motor even the fastest driver in world will never beat him if his motor is slower....
Really glad this is not true. I regularly finish on the podium and normally have the least amount of power in the A.

DK
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