Like Tree34Likes

RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-11-2009, 05:32 PM
  #8161  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
CClay1282's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Monrovia, IN
Posts: 433
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Everything graphite except for the actual chassis plate. That would be the plastic.
CClay1282 is offline  
Old 06-11-2009, 06:50 PM
  #8162  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
 
rc10 ryan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 166
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
Brand new fresh build. Ready for her virgin run this Saturday. Just a one color wonder until I get my body in from Pound-It. I'll run it as is to start. I'm already planning on getting a full plastic set. When you guys are running plastic parts over graphite, are you running everything plastic? (Arms, chassis, front brace, towers, caster blocks, etc...?) or just the arms and the chassis?
very nice truck, should be a blast to drive
rc10 ryan is offline  
Old 06-11-2009, 08:11 PM
  #8163  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
porkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Niles,Michigan
Posts: 1,007
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by magnum_junior View Post
I am going to get the fatory team kit and wanted to kno whow the traxxas velineon VXL system performs in it or if I should look at something else?
Depends on what you are doing. Are you racing? Or are you bashing? If you racing then I would get a LRP, novak, or tekin. They are all sensord. And sensorless is not the best for racing. I run all novak systems in my b4 with a 10.5 and a 8.5 in my truck. If your bashing then the traxxas will be ok but the T4 is not a basher truck. It's a racer.
porkey is offline  
Old 06-11-2009, 08:46 PM
  #8164  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (64)
 
SpraydbySprague's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Posts: 3,301
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by porkey View Post
Depends on what you are doing. Are you racing? Or are you bashing? If you racing then I would get a LRP, novak, or tekin. They are all sensord. And sensorless is not the best for racing. I run all novak systems in my b4 with a 10.5 and a 8.5 in my truck. If your bashing then the traxxas will be ok but the T4 is not a basher truck. It's a racer.
+1 on the sensored equipment. For a short while I ran the R1 Pro from Tekin it's their sensorless ESC. What I noticed on the track when I spun the car out in a turn ( I know, no one ever does that. ) and it rolled backwards the R1 would take a second to get the car moving again. I switched to the Tekin RS Pro and a Redline 7.5 motor and it's all good on the track.
The sensorless ESCs use feedback on the three motor wires to detect rotor position. In order for the feedback to be created, you must apply power to the motor. Hence the reason for the delay.
This delay isn't something you would notice in your backyard, but on the track it shows up on the lap times.
SpraydbySprague is offline  
Old 06-11-2009, 08:49 PM
  #8165  
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
 
rcman1993's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,005
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague View Post
+1 on the sensored equipment. For a short while I ran the R1 Pro from Tekin it's their sensorless ESC. What I noticed on the track when I spun the car out in a turn ( I know, no one ever does that. ) and it rolled backwards the R1 would take a second to get the car moving again.
The sensorless ESCs use feedback on the three motor wires to detect rotor position. In order for the feedback to be created, you must apply power to the motor. Hence the reason for the delay.
This delay isn't something you would notice in your backyard, but on the track it shows up on the lap times.
In other words, it would be a major amount of dead band, My friend had a sensorless esc and motor, i hated it. Their was no control do to large amount of dead band. And the power band was terrible, sensored all the way.
rcman1993 is offline  
Old 06-11-2009, 09:45 PM
  #8166  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 47
Default

B4 17.5
What will changing to 30wt from 35wt in the front do? beter weight transfer? more steering?
mtsb4 is offline  
Old 06-11-2009, 09:53 PM
  #8167  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
CClay1282's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Monrovia, IN
Posts: 433
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Should give a little more steering as well as faster steering response due to faster weight transfer.
CClay1282 is offline  
Old 06-11-2009, 11:25 PM
  #8168  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

I really like the color Jon, nice ride....


Billy

my experience towards your question



less weight on rear bulkhead = more high speed steering +less forward bite
less weight off the chassis = more forward bite + less side bite
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-gt-2-%40-2009-hank-perry.jpg  
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 06-12-2009, 01:38 AM
  #8169  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 47
Default

What about the diferent size holes in pistons? if i have 1s in the front with 35wt oil if i change to no.2 size holes with 25wt oil?
would that be similar to no1 holes and 30wt oil?
mtsb4 is offline  
Old 06-12-2009, 02:03 AM
  #8170  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
HanIce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Posts: 1,491
Trader Rating: 12 (93%+)
Default

Hi fellas,

Can someone explain to me how moving the shock in or out of the shock tower affects the buggy?

Please keep the explanation rather simple...

Thanks.
HanIce is offline  
Old 06-12-2009, 04:51 AM
  #8171  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mtsb4 View Post
What about the diferent size holes in pistons? if i have 1s in the front with 35wt oil if i change to no.2 size holes with 25wt oil?
would that be similar to no1 holes and 30wt oil?
From what i have found.... #1 and 35wt, if you goto #2 with 30wt you keep the same damping but up the pack. If you drop to 25wt the pack will be the same but the damping will get softer. Damping is what you feel in the corners and pack is what you feel on landings and hard edged bumps.

Originally Posted by HanIce View Post
Hi fellas,

Can someone explain to me how moving the shock in or out of the shock tower affects the buggy?

Please keep the explanation rather simple...

Thanks.
Front: inside holes will take steering away.
Rear: Inside holes take away forward bite and add side bite.

DK
PartTime is offline  
Old 06-12-2009, 05:05 AM
  #8172  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 459
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
From what i have found.... #1 and 35wt, if you goto #2 with 30wt you keep the same damping but up the pack. If you drop to 25wt the pack will be the same but the damping will get softer. Damping is what you feel in the corners and pack is what you feel on landings and hard edged bumps.


Front: inside holes will take steering away.
Rear: Inside holes take away forward bite and add side bite.

DK

From your experience, how does pack affect the car on small ruts?
billythekid is offline  
Old 06-12-2009, 07:07 AM
  #8173  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 47
Default

Question for those guys on brushless that consider that they have their weight distibution right.
Does the front of the car want to go up or down when in the air? forgeting about drag brake.

When i first changed to 17.5 i had the motor way back and had to add weight to the front just to stop it doing a back flip

But now that i have the smaller spur i have the motor way forward. but im still having understeer problems. its a prety high grip track
mtsb4 is offline  
Old 06-12-2009, 07:31 AM
  #8174  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
From your experience, how does pack affect the car on small ruts?
Smooth type bumps or jumps is damping. Pack only comes into play with fast shock movment. Landing from a jump, small kicker jumps stuff like that. Normally ruts are a camber issue cause there in corners. A little more camber will help. Or more camber gain.

Say your running #2 30wt and the car is getting kicked around by the ruts and bumps. #1 35wt will soak the bumps up a little better but still have the balance in the corners that you had before. This is just a rule of thumb, track condistions and driver prefrents might show somthing diffrent.

hth
DK
PartTime is offline  
Old 06-12-2009, 05:48 PM
  #8175  
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
 
mandy116's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Miami, Fl
Posts: 1,007
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

How are u guys gearing the B4 with the new 72t spur and a 13.5? Im currently running 31/78 with the 13.5.
mandy116 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.