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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 05-12-2009, 02:12 PM
  #7696  
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Originally Posted by losidriver70 View Post
Anybody try the planetary Diff yet from the SC10.. In the T4 or B4.....

Why would you? Ball diffs are far superior to gear diffs, especially in applications where size/weight matter more.
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:27 PM
  #7697  
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Why would you? Ball diffs are far superior to gear diffs, especially in applications where size/weight matter more.
WHY is a good ??

1. you can experiment with different oil weights
2.their is i would imagine a little more weight on the rear tyres.
3.Why are the Factory Guys testing them...
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:31 PM
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Ball Diffs For Life BRo
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:55 PM
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With out Doub Ball diffs are the shit mine have always been super smooth and lasted months @ a time.. i was just curious if the Team Guys were doing some testing.
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by losidriver70 View Post
With out Doub Ball diffs are the shit mine have always been super smooth and lasted months @ a time.. i was just curious if the Team Guys were doing some testing.
a team driver and his buddy at my track have been trying them. they say they arent perfect yet but later next race season in the fall for us they will work on getting them perfect.
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:07 PM
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Hi 57,

You mention you are running Lipo. In that case, I would suggest running the Theilke Lipo setup from Cactus as a starting point (it is quite a bit different to the kit setup) including drilling the 4th hole in the rear tower, running the front shocks on the inner hole on the arm etc. See here on the rc10.com site:
- http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/b...assic_2009.pdf

As the guys here have mentioned, tyre choice is critical. Assuming you have the right tyres, the question is where is it understeering - off power, mid corner, on power? High speed / low speed?

If you are understeering off power, try addijng some drag brake or moving the battery back / shortening wheelbase.
If you are understeering mid corner, try moving the battery back/ shortening wheelbase.
If you are underteering on exit, try moving the battery forward (or lengthening wheelbase) or raising the rear roll centre.

From memory, the kit setup tells you to run a long rear camber link, which also makes the car understeer. Run it in the middle of the hub on the rear.

In general, if you raise the front you will get a little less steering mid corner and vice versa for the rear.

Id say try the team lightweigh setup mentioned above first, make sure you have the right tyres for the track, and get back to us if you are still having issues.

L8r

Ray


Originally Posted by 57 View Post
Basic set-up question...

Just finished building a Factory Team B4. Stock recommendations as per instructions. Put the LiPo in the more forward position.

Not getting enough steering. Do I need to add weight forward? Adjust ride height? Oil weight? Shorten wheel base?

Running on a relatively smooth, high traction clay track.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:30 PM
  #7702  
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[QUOTE=BSchorr;5793960]Couple things...

Why carpet race a B4? if you flip, then skid.. you risk tearing the carpet...

Hi,
Where i live we have a very bad weather most of the time so we race indoor pretty often, we can't use foam tires we have to use : rear schumacher mini pins, front would be staggered or mini pins .

I think we all agree that it's more fun on dirt or grass with jumps.
But we also have a lot of fun running them on carpet, the cars are very fast since you have very high grip and no bumps .
And because i'm lazy i appreciate not to clean all the car after a day of racing.

Here's two links of a race at my indoor track .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nfBCljDTns
http://www.dailymotion.com/relevance...e-manche_sport
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:38 PM
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[QUOTE=rec;5804407]
Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
Couple things...

Why carpet race a B4? if you flip, then skid.. you risk tearing the carpet...

Hi,
Where i live we have a very bad weather most of the time so we race indoor pretty often, we can't use foam tires we have to use : rear schumacher mini pins, front would be staggered or mini pins .

I think we all agree that it's more fun on dirt or grass with jumps.
But we also have a lot of fun running them on carpet, the cars are very fast since you have very high grip and no bumps .
And because i'm lazy i appreciate not to clean all the car after a day of racing.

Here's two links of a race at my indoor track .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nfBCljDTns
http://www.dailymotion.com/relevance...e-manche_sport
hey, the carpet track that me and DK race at is carpet but we have wood jumps up too. The carpet is I think double thick so it wont rip. here is some of the races that we have had, most of them are older, http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...larrys+rc&aq=f
The stadium trucks use duratrax and proline on road rubbers, but lately we have been using losi slider tires, they hook up good without traction compound but we use the traction stuff on the prolin/duratrax. I will post pics of what I run there.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:06 PM
  #7704  
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Originally Posted by losidriver70 View Post
WHY is a good ??

1. you can experiment with different oil weights
2.their is i would imagine a little more weight on the rear tyres.
3.Why are the Factory Guys testing them...
I suppose you could experiment with oil weights but the ugly truth about gear diffs is that once you feed power into them everything in them is binding and trying to separate apart. A ball diff is just as free with a ton of power going into it as it is sitting on the bench. The factory guys are testing them just like they test everything. You would be amazed at all the stuff they test that never comes out. That's why they test.
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:04 PM
  #7705  
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Spent the morning at the track... and I'm loving this buggy.

Thanks for all the set-up suggestions/advice. Will talk more with the folks at the track and make sure the tires are well chosen. And will spend some time tweaking and adjusting. More later...




Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
Hi 57,

You mention you are running Lipo. In that case, I would suggest running the Theilke Lipo setup from Cactus as a starting point (it is quite a bit different to the kit setup) including drilling the 4th hole in the rear tower, running the front shocks on the inner hole on the arm etc. See here on the rc10.com site:
- http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/b...assic_2009.pdf

As the guys here have mentioned, tyre choice is critical. Assuming you have the right tyres, the question is where is it understeering - off power, mid corner, on power? High speed / low speed?

If you are understeering off power, try addijng some drag brake or moving the battery back / shortening wheelbase.
If you are understeering mid corner, try moving the battery back/ shortening wheelbase.
If you are underteering on exit, try moving the battery forward (or lengthening wheelbase) or raising the rear roll centre.

From memory, the kit setup tells you to run a long rear camber link, which also makes the car understeer. Run it in the middle of the hub on the rear.

In general, if you raise the front you will get a little less steering mid corner and vice versa for the rear.

Id say try the team lightweigh setup mentioned above first, make sure you have the right tyres for the track, and get back to us if you are still having issues.

L8r

Ray
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:02 PM
  #7706  
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Default help with gearing

i am running a b4 w/ lrp spere speed control and orion 17.5 brushless motor, reedey 35c lipo batteries, i need help with gearing, what would be good starting point, medium size track with good traction.
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by racer/rc View Post
i am running a b4 w/ lrp spere speed control and orion 17.5 brushless motor, reedey 35c lipo batteries, i need help with gearing, what would be good starting point, medium size track with good traction.
Start with the 72 tooth spur and a 33 tooth pinion. Check your motor temps and if you are below 140 after 5 minutes go up another tooth. Repeat until you come off the track around 150 degrees F.
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:35 AM
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thanks i will start there.
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
I suppose you could experiment with oil weights but the ugly truth about gear diffs is that once you feed power into them everything in them is binding and trying to separate apart.
What's your point? Gear diffs, under load, work fine in 1/8th scale and full size cars. The stress may be different, but I encourage the innovation. That being said, I don't think a gear diff will be helpful any situation other than extremely low traction tracks...

Last edited by richard.bratton; 05-13-2009 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 05-13-2009, 03:21 PM
  #7710  
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Originally Posted by richard.bratton View Post
What's your point? Gear diffs, under load, work fine in 1/8th scale cars and full size cars just fine. The stress may be different, but I encourage the inovation. That being said, I don't think a gear diff will be helpful any situation other than extremely low traction tracks...
A ball diff car accelerates straighter in bumpy conditions as both rear wheels get equal power .

With a gear diff and all the power goes to the opposite wheel if just one rear wheel goes over a bump , which mean less forward traction and counter steer just to accelerate straight in the same bumpy conditions ...


Before you think gear diff`s are more innovative , that's all we had in the beginning years . Ball diff`s became very popular later, after everyone learned just how great they performed.
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