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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 05-06-2009, 02:26 PM
  #7576  
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Do you have to use the arms? Or can you just use the c-hubs and knuckles?
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Old 05-06-2009, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CClay1282 View Post
Do you have to use the arms? Or can you just use the c-hubs and knuckles?
You can use any combination of the arms, c-hubs, and knuckles.
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Old 05-06-2009, 03:21 PM
  #7578  
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Originally Posted by BIG RE View Post
My friend is getting a T4 and I will be building it for him, it has been a while since I have touched a T4 and my question is regarding the GT2 front end parts that everyone swears by, what all do I need from the GT2?
Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
The arms, caster blocks and steering spindles are all you really need, you can use the shock tower too, but the ballstud mount is either .030 or .060 lower. The outside hinge pin will have to be cut down, or just buy the outer&kingpin set, the kingpin is the right size.
Forgive me for interjecting here but why get all of the steering stuff the GT2 stuff and leave the arms stock?

I use stock front end stuff and if I break anything it is the arms.

I had the GT2 arms on my truck for a while and never broke any front stuff. If I had to I would replace only the arms and leave the rest.

Just make sure you use the right hinge pins and kingpins otherwise you may find yourself breaking caster blocks because the pin is too short.

I accidentally used the kingpin for the outer hingpin and snapped the caster block on every bad hit. I changes to the right outer hinge pins and everything is golden now.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:21 PM
  #7579  
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ckaspar, my problem isnt the arms. I hardly ever break anything and if i do it seems to be the knuckles. LOL. one good thing about the gt2 caster blocks is it gives you an extra hole for the camber link, outside the stock t4 caster blocks.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:51 PM
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im hoping someone can help me. I remember reading on this forum a while back about an aftermarket diff rebuild kit for the b4/t4 that was made with much tighter tolerances and was supposed to last longer/perform better. I cant remember the manufacturer and really dont feel like re-reading everything to find it. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:56 PM
  #7581  
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Think your best performance is with the Ae parts.....
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jasons36 View Post
im hoping someone can help me. I remember reading on this forum a while back about an aftermarket diff rebuild kit for the b4/t4 that was made with much tighter tolerances and was supposed to last longer/perform better. I cant remember the manufacturer and really dont feel like re-reading everything to find it. Thanks in advance for any help.
I have the Bfast diff and it has lasted 3 times longer. then the stock. http://www.bfastrc.com/index.html
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:30 AM
  #7583  
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A key to good diff life is to replace the spring every couple of times you freshen up the diff. The balls and rings can last a very long time but if the spring wears out and gets softer then the only thing you can do is bottom out he spring to keep it from slipping. The moment the spring bottoms out the diff feels much rougher. Fresh spring costs $2, very worth it. I've got 2 seasons of light racing (twice a month in winter on a very high bite track) on my balls and rings, they're still fine.
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Old 05-07-2009, 09:00 AM
  #7584  
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I have never had a problem with the spring going weak... Hrmmm
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Old 05-07-2009, 09:05 AM
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not to mention if the diff does start to feel gritty nine times outta ten the thrust bearing got dirty.. clean off and relube the thrust bearing. and your good to go
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:49 PM
  #7586  
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What is best weight front/rear %?
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:02 PM
  #7587  
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40/60
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:09 PM
  #7588  
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Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
I have never had a problem with the spring going weak... Hrmmm

Never had a issue with the spring or the thrust bearing .

I only replace the diff balls & ring`s for a perfect diff that will last .


tip:

Make sure the slipper is adjusted correctly, if it is locked up your diff will fry early...
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:15 PM
  #7589  
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Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
I have never had a problem with the spring going weak... Hrmmm
It can happen. I had a problem with my B4 diff not holding a setting. I had to tighten it too far to keep it from slipping. I removed the thrust spring and found it to be considerably more compressed than a new one. Put the new one in and all was good.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:30 PM
  #7590  
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Impossible! AE is the bessie best...
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