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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 05-04-2009, 08:04 PM
  #7561  
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Originally Posted by yeahyeah View Post
Are the B4 driveshaft/cvd compatible for a B3 in length etc.
The B4 CVDs are longer. They hubs and arms reach farther into the B4 rear wheels. This gives the car more stability and forward bite in the rear compared to the B3.
CVDs by nature try to straighten out when power is applied to them. This in turn will put pressure on the rear tires. With the CVD joint closer to the center line of the rim, this helps plant the rear accelerating out of the turns.
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:49 PM
  #7562  
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So true about improved forward traction with Cvd`s


Problem with however is when the car is in a sharp turn the CvD also straightens out when on the power & makes the car hook or square hard....
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:55 PM
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I have a B4 FT and accidentally got the stock shaft for the rear shocks. is there any difference in material or is it just the color? Can i use the silver shaft with the gold or will there be a noticeable difference?
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by terminalpvd View Post
I have a B4 FT and accidentally got the stock shaft for the rear shocks. is there any difference in material or is it just the color? Can i use the silver shaft with the gold or will there be a noticeable difference?
As far as I know the gold ones are titanium nitride coated and just last longer and are supposed to be a lil smoother so you should be fine.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:22 AM
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Thanks, I tried the new shaft and same problem, I am guessing it is the housing. I did not expect a shock rebuild to take as long as it has, I cannot seem to get a good seal when bleeding the shocks, or end up overtightening and damaging the oring.
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Old 05-05-2009, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by yeahyeah View Post
Are the B4 driveshaft/cvd compatible for a B3 in length etc.
I was under the impression that the B4 is different in almost every way. Including the width of the supspension parts.
Here's some MIP CVDs for the B3. http://www.rcplanet.com/MIP_Shiny_CVD_Kit_p/mip1198.htm
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:29 AM
  #7567  
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Originally Posted by terminalpvd View Post
Thanks, I tried the new shaft and same problem, I am guessing it is the housing. I did not expect a shock rebuild to take as long as it has, I cannot seem to get a good seal when bleeding the shocks, or end up overtightening and damaging the oring.
Don`t use tools to tighten the shock cap`s , just hand tight...
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:37 PM
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Me too i get the same problem with the shocks over and over. Either the rod wont go up all the way or it will go up all the way but will barely come back out.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sszzxx View Post
...it will go up all the way but will barely come back out.
That is what you want it to do when they are done right.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by carbon madness View Post
That is what you want it to do when they are done right.
X2.
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:30 AM
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Thanks, I have been hand tightening them, I am suprised to hear that I do not want them to come back down (rebound), but will try that as it will be an improvement to my car bottoming out on and after every jump.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:17 AM
  #7572  
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proper shock rebound is about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch....
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:19 PM
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My friend is getting a T4 and I will be building it for him, it has been a while since I have touched a T4 and my question is regarding the GT2 front end parts that everyone swears by, what all do I need from the GT2?
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:29 PM
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The arms, caster blocks and steering spindles are all you really need, you can use the shock tower too, but the ballstud mount is either .030 or .060 lower. The outside hinge pin will have to be cut down, or just buy the outer&kingpin set, the kingpin is the right size.
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:39 PM
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thank you
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