jamescam

iTrader: (10)

Here is what I did with my B4 and plan to do with my T4.

On/Off Switch: I glued heat shrink tubing to the side of the chassis and spliced it to run the wire through.

ESC to motors: Spliced into the positive wire which runs straight to positive post of battery.

ESC to Receiver: Used wire holders available at Radio Shack to neatly guide the wire under the battery pack. Allows for a clean look.

Stevietd14

iTrader: (1)

Wow,That looks amazing.I love the neat look.I'll try that radioshack stuff and the heat shrink sounds like a good idea.Thanks

ray3619

jamescam , where can i get the thumb screw battery hold down ? ray

nmt6789

If I want to run 0 degrees anti squat, do I need a anti squat shim? The one I have now is 2 degrees.

nsr250repsol

iTrader: (9)

Tower hobbies carries them, you can also have your LHS order them for you.

jamescam

iTrader: (10)

That is a relatively new Associated Factory Team Part called simply enough Battery Strap Thumbscrews (Part # 1787). Price is around $6.99!

This is one of the best "bang for your buck" upgrades I have ever added and have them on my B4 & T4. I hate fighting with body clips and am now down to one on my B4.

celt

iTrader: (5)

Has anyone done a real measurement of the weight savings when replacing all steel kit screws with Ti screws?

Nick111

Taking all the shims out from the rear arm mount will be 0* of antisquat. The smaller shim is 1* and the larger shim is 2*. The less anti-squat, the more sidebite and less forward bite. The more anti-squat, the more forward bite, and less sidebite.

nsr250repsol

iTrader: (9)

Going Ti is not all about weight savings it's more about strength. I'm prety sure most of the guys with a lot of time with the B4 add wieght to to to ballence it out and for added traction. Pluss Ti screws are just plain cool.

jamescam

iTrader: (10)

I went with ti screws in my T4 to save a little weight and for durability but I really think they are more of a pain then they are worth. They strip VERY easily, even when you pre-tap the hole. Personally I am a BIG fan of RC Screwz. I have used them in my XRay, Pro 4, and my B4 and absolutely love them. They never strip, have lots of extras, are very durable, and look cool.

Anyway in regards to your question here are two links that may be able to help...

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/tech_info.htm
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28240

nmt6789

I tried looking for the charlie perez setup on Rc10b4.com but it doesnt work for some reason? Is there any other places were I could get a good setup for Long Island Raceway?

Team Duratrax

Here is Perez's setup in PDF format: http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/attachme...ttachmentid=27

Just give time for loading.

Sean

Nick111

nmt, If you can stop by the track, Ask Rob or Brian to hook you up with Rob Meyers standard setup. His setup is a very good starting point for the track, But if you can't find that, here's the setup I run everyweek.

Front
1/30/no limiting
brown spring
1-outside
2-b
middle axle height
25*
trailing
arms level
Red 7206/Red Taper pin, stock foam

Rear
1/30/no limiting
green spring
1-inside
1-b, 2 washers on new brace, 4 on old
short wheelbase
0* antisquat
Bones level
Red Taper pin/Red BK Bar, stock foam, alot of guys run the PL foams, but I prefer the stock.

Jconcepts front wing.
rear wing angle-6*
1/2oz on rear of chassis
rear arms moved forward .090

If you need any help, Just search for our thread in this forum, Most of the guys would not hesistate to help.

jamescam

iTrader: (10)

Is there a conversion kit that takes your B4 to a BJ4X4? Just curious.

nutfluff

iTrader: (5)

Never. The B4 isn't even close to the BJ4. The only things they have in common are the "B" and one of the "4"'s.