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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 09-22-2005, 11:04 PM
  #706  
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HeY!!!



jbrow1-thats how my 3800's were but i got them in and it was a nice tight fit... i ended up not even having to use sho goo or anything to keep em tight together.....



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Old 09-23-2005, 06:16 AM
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I got some 3700 batteries from promatch. They assembled them for me and I had more then enough room for them to fit in my T4. And they're the same lenght as the 3800.
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Old 09-23-2005, 09:07 PM
  #708  
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Just so you have a little more room side to side don't solder the battery wires directly to the cell. Use a battery bar and bend it at a right angle then solder that on and solder the wires on top of them.

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Old 09-26-2005, 06:04 PM
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Has anyone tried drilling two holes in the chassis to let the servo wire go to from the servo to the reciever. So I won't have the bend in the wire by the servo.
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:14 PM
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I bought a T4 from a guy who did that. Worked slick. I'll probably do it to my new one now that you mention it. Thanks.
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:09 PM
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HeY!!!


yeah i saw only a few people do that and it looks slick and i think im going to do that, but the guy told me it will take some time to do it... or at least to make it look nice.....

LaTa
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:52 PM
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What did he use to do it?
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:57 PM
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HeY!!!


he just used a small sanding bit and a dremel..... and just pushed it through to the size of the servo lead....
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Old 09-27-2005, 06:00 AM
  #714  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
jbrow - There are two different GP3300 cells. One was wider and was a tight fit..in everything. The new cell is shorter and fits into everything better.
I haven't had much trouble fitting either of the 2 different GP cells in my B4 or T4 chassis. You just have to be very meticulas in building your batteries. I use a deans jig to build all of my packs. I first ruff up the areas that I'm going to apply solder to. The I start putting the bateries in the jig. I glue each cell to the next at this time. Before I put the second cell in the Jig I apply a bead of shoo-goo on the cell and the I place that cell in the Jig next to the previously placed cell. Repeat this till all 6 cells are in the Jig. Then push all the Cells tightly against one end. This will ensure all the ends of your cells will be even to eachother. The walk away and let the glue dry. Once the glue is dry I tin all the cells and again. I then go to the first tinned cells and start soldering the bars to connect the cells. Yokom makes some battery bars that have a 90 deg bend in them already. These make it very easy to solder leads to the battery and they look nicer then a standard battery bar that has been bent. Oh yeah, don't forget to give your soldering iron time to bring it's self back to a usable temp before going to the next piot to be soldered. This will help avoid overheating your cells. I hope this helps in fitting your new batteris in your B4/T4.
Josh
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Old 09-28-2005, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
james: Just for fun why not leave your receipts and a grand total in big bold print on the table next to this gear and snap a picture of your wifes face when she reads the total! LOL


Nice spread. Nothing like a new build eh?
Ironically my wife, for the first time in a long time, took a look at my credit card bill and let's just say it made for a bad morning. I reminded her she said it was ok but when she saw over $800 spent just on this project she wasn't thrilled. Mind you that $800 doesn't include the cost of the T4!

Here is an update on the assembly for those interested...

Front End Assembly
Didn't have the best start as I was a little miffed that for $80 Lunsford couldn't include the 2 4-40 x 7/16 screws for the steering rack and for $100 Acer didn't feel obligated to include the steering rack bearings. Titanium screws proved to cause multiple headaches as I stripped more than 1 head even after first tapping the hole with a regular screw.

Lunsford did redeem themselves with the front axles as they went in with a breeze and I really appreciated the free quality steel tool that came with the hinge pin & turnbuckle set. After I shined up the hinge pins with jewerly polish everything went together smooth as silk. Another high point I first discovered on the front end is the Losi Titanium Ball Cups! These things are sweet with their hex whole in the top for easy screwing!

Once I mounted the RPM front bumper I realized I made a mistake as the screws sunk down about 1/8" past the surface. While not a big deal I knew I would be digging dirt out of those holes for the rest of my life if I left it so I went back to the stock bumper.

Rear End Assembly
Acer sticks it to me again by not including bearings for the Differential in their T4 bearing kit but at least their diff & thrust balls are smooth as glass. The Racer's Edge Aluminum Rear hubs are also very nice and I find myself well on my way.

Then around 3am I make the dumbest mistake ever! I am putting together the MIP CVD's 1/2 asleep and decide to use the rear axle roll pin instead of the CVD cross pin to connect the CVD bone to the CVD axle. As you can imagine the roll pin wouldn't go in easily so instead of questioning whether I was using the right pin or not I pull out the vice grips and jam it through. After what I believed to be a successful yet difficult CVD assembly I head to bed. In the morning when I go to test what should be a free moving CVD I realize my stupid mistake as the CVD cross pins, still on my work table, stare up at me. After a very long struggle I tear them apart, let's just say the shape they end up in is not worthy of the Dream Stock T4 status!

So as of today I have to wait for my order of replacement Titanium Screws from Lunsford to arrive and while I wait I am back to deciding if I want to just pick up a replacement set of MIP CVDs or go ahead and try out the Titanium Racing CVDs. Regardless I have a couple days of waiting ahead.
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Old 09-28-2005, 04:22 PM
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jamescam, Good tip to tell the wife. Say that there's alot of worst things you can spend money on. Then take her for a nice dinner. It works for me. I bought a TC4 and a RC10GT this month and I'm not dead.
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Old 09-29-2005, 06:57 AM
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are these 2 cars anygood because im in the process of choosing what class to run, iam looking for somthing racable for nxt season to race at Albion Park EP race track etc...
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Old 09-29-2005, 12:38 PM
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rink - Both the B4 & the T4 are at the top of their fields with easy to find parts and a proven record of race success. Before picking one up determine which is the more popular class in your area (Truck or Buggy). If you are new to racing and if both classes are well supported I would recommend starting with Stock T4 as it is a little easier to drive for beginners.
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Old 09-29-2005, 02:21 PM
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Default T4 help

Hello, I am trying to "neaten" out my wires on my T4.I had originally used a jumper with my deans,however I could never make a clean and strong connection.Now I run 3 wires from my motor.It holds up find, but I dont like the space and looks of everything.Also,When I solder the red wire to my pack its a pain to squueze the solering iron in the little spot between my antenna and rear right tire.Any suggestions?Also,Is there any way or position to neaten the wire from the esc to the reciever?I already have the servo wire pretty neat.Any help is appreciated.
Steve
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Old 09-29-2005, 02:24 PM
  #720  
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Here is the pic of the esc wire I am trying to "neaten" out.Both the wire to the reciever and the switch are a mess.Any help?
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