54LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
02-10-2009, 11:18 AM
#6871
02-10-2009, 08:11 PM
#6872
I thought some of you might like to see this. Using a Novak Sentry data logger in a FT T4 stock truck class with a Novak 13.5 motor, hole shot tires blue groove (I took 1st place, point series race), I constructed a G-G Diagram which shows a graphical representation of the g-forces acting on the truck during the race. It is a tool used by race car engineers, and we have the capability to do it with our RC race cars too.
A quick analysis shows a clumping of data points on acceleration during a RH turn. Since we are running clockwise at the track, this makes sense since we are turning 360 degrees more RH than LH. It also shows a massive clumping of data points in the center which means that during much of the race, there weren't high g-forces acting on the chassis at all which means I wasn't driving at the limit. A better G-G diagram would show much fewer data points in the center (the data would be more scattered) and would mean I would be driving at the limit more.
A quick analysis shows a clumping of data points on acceleration during a RH turn. Since we are running clockwise at the track, this makes sense since we are turning 360 degrees more RH than LH. It also shows a massive clumping of data points in the center which means that during much of the race, there weren't high g-forces acting on the chassis at all which means I wasn't driving at the limit. A better G-G diagram would show much fewer data points in the center (the data would be more scattered) and would mean I would be driving at the limit more.
02-10-2009, 11:46 PM
#6874
I`v ran them with , a whole lot of traction compared to the standard 3 degree hub ....
02-11-2009, 06:13 AM
#6875
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Ran a B4 for the first time this weekend and ran some practice at are local track last night and have to say the car feels excellent for never running one. I have a fairly standard setup on it with lipo and about 1oz of weight on it with the SMC 4100 lipo and it was easy to drive with J Concepts Gold Bar Codes all the way around. I think a new fresh car would be even better but hell can't complain about how I had the borrowed ride working.
I think I'm going to get a new B4 this week and have it ready to race this Sunday at are track. Didn't try the lightweight setup but I have the setup printed up but not sure if I will try it. Guess time will tell but as long as I get the results I'm looking for out a standard setup that I will tweak a little then I will be happy.
I think I'm going to get a new B4 this week and have it ready to race this Sunday at are track. Didn't try the lightweight setup but I have the setup printed up but not sure if I will try it. Guess time will tell but as long as I get the results I'm looking for out a standard setup that I will tweak a little then I will be happy.
02-11-2009, 09:59 AM
#6876
wyd
nevermind the standard setup if your running lipo. You can try it as a starting reference, but the lightlweight setup is a great starting point. I run the smc 4000's and needed a little weight to get to the minimum. The big thing is not to over power the light car. A 7.5 is ALOT of motor when the car is light.
If I remember right you run at Bumps n Jumps, if the track is still high bite you wont need the .5* rear hubs. Did you ditch the academy cars?
nevermind the standard setup if your running lipo. You can try it as a starting reference, but the lightlweight setup is a great starting point. I run the smc 4000's and needed a little weight to get to the minimum. The big thing is not to over power the light car. A 7.5 is ALOT of motor when the car is light.
If I remember right you run at Bumps n Jumps, if the track is still high bite you wont need the .5* rear hubs. Did you ditch the academy cars?
02-11-2009, 04:35 PM
#6877
When rebuilding the T4 diff can you re-use the same balls/rings? Or do they need to be replaced every time? I am wondering if I can just clean everything up and apply some new clear silicon diff lube and black grease to the existing hardware. I have a spare transmission that I keep ready to go in my toolbox.
02-11-2009, 05:39 PM
#6878
I reuse my diff parts all the time but I don't race every week either. My diffs give no trouble and are built per manual specs. The only thing I do differently is add a small drop of blue loctite to the diff screw before I tighten it to the other outdrive assembly. I back it off 1/8 turn just like the manual says and leave it. I never have problems with my diffs and when inspection/service time rolls around I merely flip the diff rings over if its grooved more than I like. Give everything a good cleaning and if it looks good, relube and reassemble.
AE diffs are very good quality and when built correctly they should not need to be serviced very often.
AE diffs are very good quality and when built correctly they should not need to be serviced very often.
02-11-2009, 05:40 PM
#6879
When rebuilding the T4 diff can you re-use the same balls/rings? Or do they need to be replaced every time? I am wondering if I can just clean everything up and apply some new clear silicon diff lube and black grease to the existing hardware. I have a spare transmission that I keep ready to go in my toolbox.
02-11-2009, 05:42 PM
#6880
Just replace the rings & balls and it will perform like new....
02-11-2009, 07:17 PM
#6882
New rings are better than used , don` be skimpy .
There relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of new carbide balls....
There relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of new carbide balls....
02-11-2009, 07:34 PM
#6884
what pinion gear is recomended for a 13.5 and 10.5 novak ribbed can motor using stock spur on T4? also does the motor plate need modified or will it bolt up no prob? buddy of mine seemed to be having an issue w/ the motor not lining up w/ the slots
02-11-2009, 07:36 PM
#6885
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wyd
nevermind the standard setup if your running lipo. You can try it as a starting reference, but the lightlweight setup is a great starting point. I run the smc 4000's and needed a little weight to get to the minimum. The big thing is not to over power the light car. A 7.5 is ALOT of motor when the car is light.
If I remember right you run at Bumps n Jumps, if the track is still high bite you wont need the .5* rear hubs. Did you ditch the academy cars?
nevermind the standard setup if your running lipo. You can try it as a starting reference, but the lightlweight setup is a great starting point. I run the smc 4000's and needed a little weight to get to the minimum. The big thing is not to over power the light car. A 7.5 is ALOT of motor when the car is light.
If I remember right you run at Bumps n Jumps, if the track is still high bite you wont need the .5* rear hubs. Did you ditch the academy cars?
The track is the same but we use BK Bars and Bar Codes for the most part and no more slicks. They left the track dry out and treaded tires are what we run.
I did have a buddy of mine that has been running the B4 for almost 3 years now and runs lipos as well. He did try the lightweight setup but said it didn't have good low speed steering unless you used alot of brakes. He ran a few runs like that and then went back to his weighted lipo setup and was a few tenths faster and more consistant. I guess I will just have to try it and see.