RC10B4/T4 Forum
#6811
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)

Uncle Cliffy, I would try Big Shots if steps are good on your track. You will be surprised how good these tires are in the rough. They have a larger diameter and actually should be much better in any slightly hard packed sections, yet they don't clog in wet conditions either!
...Jim
W.E.D.
...Jim
W.E.D.

So do you think the set-up I found would be a good baseline? You can't really tell the gnarliness, but here's a picture of the track:

It's pretty big and rough. I'm mostly just concerned about bump and jump abilitys at this point.

#6813

Thanks for the reply Jim. Honestly, the Big Shots don't look like much, but I'll have to try them. 
So do you think the set-up I found would be a good baseline? You can't really tell the gnarliness, but here's a picture of the track:
It's pretty big and rough. I'm mostly just concerned about bump and jump abilitys at this point.

So do you think the set-up I found would be a good baseline? You can't really tell the gnarliness, but here's a picture of the track:

It's pretty big and rough. I'm mostly just concerned about bump and jump abilitys at this point.


If you use this setup with a lipo and no added weight it may be too stiff and not ride the bumps well. As you can see from this thread, people are still experimenting with lightweight setups whereas the full weight setup is well developed and well proven.
As for tyres- you may also want to look at the JConcepts 'goose bumps' tyres. see www.jconcepts.net and look under the 1/10 tyre range.
Ray
#6814
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)

The setup is designed around Nimh weights. This might not be a bad thing on a big rough track with lots of jumps - you will need to bring the weight of the battery up to 400-440g (sorry I am metric
) using some lead underneath the battery and maybe stuck on the battery brace. Note that this setup also uses some lead behind the battery/in front of the gearbox. If you have a later vesion of the B4 with the updated rear u-brace you only need 1 washer under the rear ballstud, not 3 (if the section under the rear ballstud is raised ~1.5mm this is one of the new u-braces). For really big jumps try going up 2.5 or 5wt in the rear and maybe using silver rear springs.
If you use this setup with a lipo and no added weight it may be too stiff and not ride the bumps well. As you can see from this thread, people are still experimenting with lightweight setups whereas the full weight setup is well developed and well proven.
As for tyres- you may also want to look at the JConcepts 'goose bumps' tyres. see www.jconcepts.net and look under the 1/10 tyre range.
Ray

If you use this setup with a lipo and no added weight it may be too stiff and not ride the bumps well. As you can see from this thread, people are still experimenting with lightweight setups whereas the full weight setup is well developed and well proven.
As for tyres- you may also want to look at the JConcepts 'goose bumps' tyres. see www.jconcepts.net and look under the 1/10 tyre range.
Ray

I actually really liked the Goosebumps! I had a set, but they wore out really quick... (Greens.) I'm thinking of trying the harder compound on these next, but I'm pretty sure they won't perform as well.
I am going to order the small spurs tomorrow for a Novak 13.5SS. What pinion would be a good start for good speed without bogging the car out of the corners?

#6815

The goosebumps are really good tires to try also, they will wear, but any tire that works well, will likely wear also.
The Big Shots may cause a push if you don't adjust ride hieght and use a good front tire, like a narrow TL front in red(I forget the number, 7072?). IF they cause a push the Ifmar pins are an awesome tire also, with a little less rear traction.
I think the step pins will feel like they fit in between the two TL tires, more like the Goosebumps in green should also.
The new rear ballstud mount has a raised area that you can see. But this only works if you have a good idea of what both parts look like I guess, lol.
I don't have any experienc with the 13.5, but I would guess 23 to start for most of the milder BL set ups.
...Jim
W.E.D.
The Big Shots may cause a push if you don't adjust ride hieght and use a good front tire, like a narrow TL front in red(I forget the number, 7072?). IF they cause a push the Ifmar pins are an awesome tire also, with a little less rear traction.
I think the step pins will feel like they fit in between the two TL tires, more like the Goosebumps in green should also.
The new rear ballstud mount has a raised area that you can see. But this only works if you have a good idea of what both parts look like I guess, lol.
I don't have any experienc with the 13.5, but I would guess 23 to start for most of the milder BL set ups.
...Jim
W.E.D.
#6816
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)

Thanks again for the tips. I'm pretty sure my B4 is one of the first ones... My LHS sat on the car for YEARS because everyone wanted a TMaxx or Revo.
The car probably has the lower rear brace you're talking about. I'm not really sure how I could tell the difference though. The only upgrade I can see doing is maybe to get the newest shocks that are available...
I actually really liked the Goosebumps! I had a set, but they wore out really quick... (Greens.) I'm thinking of trying the harder compound on these next, but I'm pretty sure they won't perform as well.
I am going to order the small spurs tomorrow for a Novak 13.5SS. What pinion would be a good start for good speed without bogging the car out of the corners?

I actually really liked the Goosebumps! I had a set, but they wore out really quick... (Greens.) I'm thinking of trying the harder compound on these next, but I'm pretty sure they won't perform as well.
I am going to order the small spurs tomorrow for a Novak 13.5SS. What pinion would be a good start for good speed without bogging the car out of the corners?


#6817
Tech Adept
#6819

RC Nut, good looking truck! If you are running in the sand you can use a buggy body under the truck body as a sand deflector,
.
All you would need to do is trim off the parts of the body that interfere with the T4 body. The stock B4 body is best for it though, since it doesn't have the flares in back on the sides.
Just a little velcro on the sides and less cleaning to do!
Then you only need some custom paint,
!
...Jim
W.E.D.

All you would need to do is trim off the parts of the body that interfere with the T4 body. The stock B4 body is best for it though, since it doesn't have the flares in back on the sides.
Just a little velcro on the sides and less cleaning to do!
Then you only need some custom paint,

...Jim
W.E.D.
#6820
Tech Adept

could someone give me a idea on the effects of having 6 limiters in the front shocks versus 4? will have more limiters increase a push? thanks
#6821

You will find that more limiters in the front shocks will increase steering on throttle because they won't allow as much weight transfer to the rear. Off throttle steering may decrease because having less overall travel will cause the front to not "roll" from side to side as much. This could be a good thing if your track has lots of high speed sweeper turns.
#6823
Tech Adept

RC Nut, good looking truck! If you are running in the sand you can use a buggy body under the truck body as a sand deflector,
.
All you would need to do is trim off the parts of the body that interfere with the T4 body. The stock B4 body is best for it though, since it doesn't have the flares in back on the sides.
Just a little velcro on the sides and less cleaning to do!
Then you only need some custom paint,
!
...Jim
W.E.D.

All you would need to do is trim off the parts of the body that interfere with the T4 body. The stock B4 body is best for it though, since it doesn't have the flares in back on the sides.
Just a little velcro on the sides and less cleaning to do!
Then you only need some custom paint,

...Jim
W.E.D.
#6824
#6825

In my experience, more limiters usually means more on power steering and a little less steering off power during chassis roll as Davidka posted.
The exception is when there is enough traction to lift the front tires, regardless of shock limiting, so the front end tuning is negated by rear traction. lol
RC nut, yes probably, I would cut two slots above where the fan will be, then one across the rear of the slots, so you can bend a cover up and over the fan. Allowing some clearance and air in for the fan, but leaving material for dirt/sand deflection.
...Jim
W.E.D.
The exception is when there is enough traction to lift the front tires, regardless of shock limiting, so the front end tuning is negated by rear traction. lol
RC nut, yes probably, I would cut two slots above where the fan will be, then one across the rear of the slots, so you can bend a cover up and over the fan. Allowing some clearance and air in for the fan, but leaving material for dirt/sand deflection.
...Jim
W.E.D.