RC10B4/T4 Forum
#5956
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
17.5/13.5 Gearing
Guys I've found another solution to properly gearing 17.5's and 13.5's while using a slipper. I think it's a little more simple than others, BUT it does take some older yet still able to find parts.
Parts needed:
RC10/T/B2/T2 outer slipper plate. (not t3/b3)
RC10/T/B2/T2 slipper disk (not t3/b3)
Bearing/bushing, size??? x1
1 Rear axle bearing spacer (the one thats in between the bearings in the rear hubs of b2,t2,b3,t3,b4,t4)
Standard spur
Spur gear screws x2
Installation:
Remove slipper setup, leaving the inner plate only.
Install B2 outer plate with slipper pad.
Insert bearing
Slide rear bearing spacer onto shaft
Slide slipper spring on and install nut
Attach gear with screws.
Done.
Guys I've found another solution to properly gearing 17.5's and 13.5's while using a slipper. I think it's a little more simple than others, BUT it does take some older yet still able to find parts.
Parts needed:
RC10/T/B2/T2 outer slipper plate. (not t3/b3)
RC10/T/B2/T2 slipper disk (not t3/b3)
Bearing/bushing, size??? x1
1 Rear axle bearing spacer (the one thats in between the bearings in the rear hubs of b2,t2,b3,t3,b4,t4)
Standard spur
Spur gear screws x2
Installation:
Remove slipper setup, leaving the inner plate only.
Install B2 outer plate with slipper pad.
Insert bearing
Slide rear bearing spacer onto shaft
Slide slipper spring on and install nut
Attach gear with screws.
Done.
#5957
Yeah, but he was using more parts, like a losi part you have to modify. The older parts have a smaller diameter plate and pad and seemed to fit better than the T3/B3 ones.
#5959
I remembered and looked it up and changed the post.
I was just thinking of something a little more simple and a direct bolt-on.
I was just thinking of something a little more simple and a direct bolt-on.
#5960
Whats up Adam?
Hey what is the deal with all this mod? We run 13.5 here for stock (only mod once in a while), and I gear 78/33. Seems pretty good and does not thermal, I want to try gearing down a few when I get the chance. Are you guys trying to run higher than this? Its a crazy roll out, but the motors w/ lipo seems to like it.
Hey what is the deal with all this mod? We run 13.5 here for stock (only mod once in a while), and I gear 78/33. Seems pretty good and does not thermal, I want to try gearing down a few when I get the chance. Are you guys trying to run higher than this? Its a crazy roll out, but the motors w/ lipo seems to like it.
#5961
Tech Addict
Hey guys,...
I found this Novak Brushless SS13.5 kit online...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Novak-GTB-SS-Pro...742.m153.l1262
Will it work well in a B4, or is it too much power?
I found this Novak Brushless SS13.5 kit online...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Novak-GTB-SS-Pro...742.m153.l1262
Will it work well in a B4, or is it too much power?
#5962
Carty!!! What up?
Nothing too crazy. Every place around here runs 13.5 as stock also. Believe it or not I usually only run mod now unless there isnt a class.
I'm just trying to move the motor all the way up for a better balance. Everytime I ran 13.5 in 2whl on a "slicks" track it made the B4 PUSH. I'm getting ready for Albion at the end of the month, you know the usual, tight and hooked up, need steering. On tracks that arent super tacky its not a big deal. Jacob told me he usually runs a 27/78 in a B4, he's the fast stock guy these days. I gave up the title
You seriously runnin a 33 on a 13.5?? On a B4?? at IRCR?? How the traction compared to out here, you know the Planet/Albion/CRCRC/Leisure type traction.
Nothing too crazy. Every place around here runs 13.5 as stock also. Believe it or not I usually only run mod now unless there isnt a class.
I'm just trying to move the motor all the way up for a better balance. Everytime I ran 13.5 in 2whl on a "slicks" track it made the B4 PUSH. I'm getting ready for Albion at the end of the month, you know the usual, tight and hooked up, need steering. On tracks that arent super tacky its not a big deal. Jacob told me he usually runs a 27/78 in a B4, he's the fast stock guy these days. I gave up the title
You seriously runnin a 33 on a 13.5?? On a B4?? at IRCR?? How the traction compared to out here, you know the Planet/Albion/CRCRC/Leisure type traction.
#5963
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
CC I believe the 13.5 is usually a Stock or Super Stock Class Motor and will work well in the B4 if running in one of these classes?
Just picked up a FTT4 to go racing with here Hoping to get Electric Off-Road racing going again here?
Running a Mamba Max 6900kv system and 2S Hyperion LiPo.
ThanX to this thread's info I will be adding weight to my FTT4
Just picked up a FTT4 to go racing with here Hoping to get Electric Off-Road racing going again here?
Running a Mamba Max 6900kv system and 2S Hyperion LiPo.
ThanX to this thread's info I will be adding weight to my FTT4
#5964
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
17.5 is stock class 13.5 is Super Stock (a.k.a 19T) and anything else is Modified.
It used to be that 13.5 and 10.5 were both part of Super Stock, but that has since been changed so that 13.5 is the only 19T equivilent. The 10.5 motors just make way too much power for the 19t class.
It used to be that 13.5 and 10.5 were both part of Super Stock, but that has since been changed so that 13.5 is the only 19T equivilent. The 10.5 motors just make way too much power for the 19t class.
#5965
Adam-
Yes, 33/78 on a T4. I got the truck off a local and rebuilt it, thats what he had it geared and it feels good on the track, I think a little more squirt could be had if I dropped a few teeth, but its enough for this layout. The traction here could be described as very good, but different than pure albion/planet/etc. in that its less sticky, but more abrasive. Pink tapers have the best grip, but just do not last, its a set a night in mod. We all run panther swich 2.0 clay, and in truck they last months. Drill press just a bit and run them. Fronts are dremeled pink ribs or treads, but I hate treaded fronts.
13.5 is waay faster than i remember stock being lol. I run the 3800 30C Orion.
Yes, 33/78 on a T4. I got the truck off a local and rebuilt it, thats what he had it geared and it feels good on the track, I think a little more squirt could be had if I dropped a few teeth, but its enough for this layout. The traction here could be described as very good, but different than pure albion/planet/etc. in that its less sticky, but more abrasive. Pink tapers have the best grip, but just do not last, its a set a night in mod. We all run panther swich 2.0 clay, and in truck they last months. Drill press just a bit and run them. Fronts are dremeled pink ribs or treads, but I hate treaded fronts.
13.5 is waay faster than i remember stock being lol. I run the 3800 30C Orion.
#5966
PS. I can't believe the still haven't changed the servo saver bottom piece, the nut barley threads into it and pops back out if you hit anything. I remember gluing it when I had a b4, but its not a permanant fix, what do you guys do?
#5967
Tech Master
JB-Weld it.
#5968
33 on a T4 Deezam! I usually still have to run stock if I run truck, everybody still pusses out on mod truck I usually gear it 24/81. Some go way higher but I aint out motored anywhere and the motor is always cool and I have tons of punch just in case and plenty of top end.
Oh yeah it is a TON faster then the old stock. You wouldnt believe how it was a Planet. Pullin wheelies out of the corners in truck, flippin over backwards on the start, awesome.
As for the servo saver I just build them like stock and go. Some ae guys showed me how they glued the saver on the rack then made a carbon fiber peice to reinforce the servo horn, and glued it to it. I highly recommend the gt2 parts on the front of the truck too.
Oh yeah it is a TON faster then the old stock. You wouldnt believe how it was a Planet. Pullin wheelies out of the corners in truck, flippin over backwards on the start, awesome.
As for the servo saver I just build them like stock and go. Some ae guys showed me how they glued the saver on the rack then made a carbon fiber peice to reinforce the servo horn, and glued it to it. I highly recommend the gt2 parts on the front of the truck too.
#5969
Thanks Chris,
Which way do you do it?
JB Weld it without the spring to build threads, then take apart & put back together? or Build it covered in JB Weld and let set?
It would be nice to have more adjustment than "its together, glued and pretty tight, hope it holds"
Which way do you do it?
JB Weld it without the spring to build threads, then take apart & put back together? or Build it covered in JB Weld and let set?
It would be nice to have more adjustment than "its together, glued and pretty tight, hope it holds"
#5970
They seriously need to redesign it like the GT2/B44 type.