34LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
10-31-2008, 04:23 PM
#5927
Sweet thanks David! BTW I sent you a pm.
Now is it worth me going lipo? I'm currently running different matched EnerG 4600 packs. Will I get more boost and/or longer run times than what I'm using?
I'm gonna go brushless within the next couple months but the lipo/ brushless stuff is still really new to me coming back into RC after about 17 years. So yeah, I'm still old school but learning!
Now is it worth me going lipo? I'm currently running different matched EnerG 4600 packs. Will I get more boost and/or longer run times than what I'm using?
I'm gonna go brushless within the next couple months but the lipo/ brushless stuff is still really new to me coming back into RC after about 17 years. So yeah, I'm still old school but learning!
10-31-2008, 04:27 PM
#5928
Originally Posted by DavidR
I do appreciate the post regarding the lightweight outdrives... I am running a Novak GTB Spread Spectrum with a 13.5 Brushless motor. I don't really think breaking those under what is essentially a stock motor will be a problem. But thanks for the heads up anyway. I truly do appreciate an honest response instead of just bashing my choices.
.... The LW OD's didn't break but they are dished bad from the shiny cvd pins, enough that a fresh set is going on tomorrow
10-31-2008, 04:37 PM
#5929
TorchAZ - As far as I myself am concerned. Lipo is the only way to go.
Extended run times... Lighter weight... Higher Voltage. All of these are advantages to Lipo.
The Cost is a big disadvantage though. Chargers and Balancers for Lipo as well as the Lipos themselves aren't cheap obviously.
One thing I did forget to mention... You will need to get a Lipo Cutoff with your setup just to be safe.
Lipos cannot be run below 3.3V Per cell or you will damage them. This comes in at 6.6v for a 2S Pack.
As for performance difference... Yes you will notice a little more ZIP just because of the increase in voltage.
The other cool thing about Lipo is they don't slowly loose energy over the race.. for the most part what you start the run with is what you finish the run with as far as "Zippiness" goes. NiMH kinda looses a little umph during the race.
Jeff Taylor - Thanks for the input! That's more of what I wanted to hear! So how many total HOURS of time do you think are on those outdrives. I usually rebuild my diffs after every other race weekend anyway. As cheap as the outdrives are I'd just be willing to call them an expendable peice every couple months or so.
Extended run times... Lighter weight... Higher Voltage. All of these are advantages to Lipo.
The Cost is a big disadvantage though. Chargers and Balancers for Lipo as well as the Lipos themselves aren't cheap obviously.
One thing I did forget to mention... You will need to get a Lipo Cutoff with your setup just to be safe.
Lipos cannot be run below 3.3V Per cell or you will damage them. This comes in at 6.6v for a 2S Pack.
As for performance difference... Yes you will notice a little more ZIP just because of the increase in voltage.
The other cool thing about Lipo is they don't slowly loose energy over the race.. for the most part what you start the run with is what you finish the run with as far as "Zippiness" goes. NiMH kinda looses a little umph during the race.
Jeff Taylor - Thanks for the input! That's more of what I wanted to hear! So how many total HOURS of time do you think are on those outdrives. I usually rebuild my diffs after every other race weekend anyway. As cheap as the outdrives are I'd just be willing to call them an expendable peice every couple months or so.
10-31-2008, 04:46 PM
#5930
I'd say 7.5 hours tops, the right side out drive wears much faster than the left side...weird t4 traits 
10-31-2008, 04:52 PM
#5931
That is quite a decent amount of time actually..
That would be almost twenty race days with 3 Five Minute qualifiers and 8 minute mains.
But maybe I will just run them this first build since I've already paid for them and then try the stockers. I'm sure there really isn't that much of a difference anyway.
That would be almost twenty race days with 3 Five Minute qualifiers and 8 minute mains.
But maybe I will just run them this first build since I've already paid for them and then try the stockers. I'm sure there really isn't that much of a difference anyway.
10-31-2008, 04:59 PM
#5932
Ya it's not too bad, that rate means i'll have too replace them 3 more times between now and the last race in the series 
10-31-2008, 09:03 PM
#5933
You'd be surprised at how much the T4 weighs. Put it on the scale with a lipo and you will probably come in above the minimum weight.
The problem with aluminum is that when it bends, it causes all sorts of handling issues, and it bends fairly easily.
PB
The problem with aluminum is that when it bends, it causes all sorts of handling issues, and it bends fairly easily.
PB
10-31-2008, 09:36 PM
#5934
I was clearing the minimum weight on my T4 at the Reedy Truck Race with Lipo and carbon parts, without adding any lead...you don't really need the active weight and depending on what parts are aluminum, you'd better not crash much, imo
10-31-2008, 09:37 PM
#5935
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
I say just go ahead and keep all the FT Carbon stuff on there and if you need to add weight, use stick-on wheel weights from 1:1 cars. That way you can add the weight where you need/want it and can control the weight in 1/4 oz.(7 gram) increments for the most part. I had to install 1 1/2 oz of weight to my B4 to get it past tech with a stock motor and reedy 3200mAh LiPo. The awesome thing was that I could add the weight just under the rear shock tower and under the front upper plate. It handles rough stuff well and has tons of steering. Just my $0.02.
11-01-2008, 12:28 AM
#5936
Originally Posted by ffejrobins30
I say just go ahead and keep all the FT Carbon stuff on there and if you need to add weight, use stick-on wheel weights from 1:1 cars. That way you can add the weight where you need/want it and can control the weight in 1/4 oz.(7 gram) increments for the most part. I had to install 1 1/2 oz of weight to my B4 to get it past tech with a stock motor and reedy 3200mAh LiPo. The awesome thing was that I could add the weight just under the rear shock tower and under the front upper plate. It handles rough stuff well and has tons of steering. Just my $0.02.
anyway aluminum tweaks i had aluminum mounts on my lazer and i took them off after i noticed one looked alittle off and the car is so much better. There are some things best kept simple. unfortunately in racing thats the best way for the most part.
you want bling i suggest b44 rear hubs, qc rears, aluminum shock bushings, Ti screws and a aftermarket lid.
11-01-2008, 11:06 AM
#5938
around 53+/-oz. I have a B4, LRP TC spec, hacker 17.5, Futaba 9551, spektrum pro rx, IP 3800, 1.5 in rear and 4.5 lined up along the sides of the battery tray and I weight 57.2.
Dont worry so much about overall car weight, put your battery on a scale and add lead to the pack until it weighs between 14.5-15.7 oz. Put the weight back in the battery tray where it belongs.
Dont worry so much about overall car weight, put your battery on a scale and add lead to the pack until it weighs between 14.5-15.7 oz. Put the weight back in the battery tray where it belongs.
11-01-2008, 06:48 PM
#5940
Originally Posted by DavidR
Hey guys... I'm back!
I just ordered the following parts for my new T4 FT Kit - I'm gonna build it once and forget about it!
You guys see anything I missed? Or anything that I should consider changing?
Ohhh BTW this will be a Lipo powered truck.. Thus all the aluminum trying to get the weight back up.
Thanx!
Team Associated
9577 Steering Blocks*
6439 Blue Hard Anodized Shock Cap x 4
7459 Aluminum Inline Axle*
9635 Rear Sway Bar Kit
1105 Green Slime Shock O-Ring Lube
1787 Factory Team Battery Strap Thumb Screws
1734 Factory Team Body Clips
1766 Lightweight Outdrive Set
1777 Shock Pivot Ball
1780 Shock Bushing
9787 Chassis Protective Film
Lunsford
7109 Long Broach 1/10th Scale Ball Studs
7901 Fat Boy Short Motor Screws
14014 RC10T4 Super Duty Plus Combo Kit - 3.5mm TBuckles and Hingepins
K-Factory
K1503B Blue Alu. Rear Hub Carrier w/ Carbon Camber Plates
K1501B Blue Alu. Steering Blocks and Hardened Shaft*
K1509B Blue Alu. Steering Rack
K1505B Blue Alu. Front Bulkhead
K1508 Carbon Steering Brace
K1511B Blue Alu. Rear Brace
K1514B Front Shock Tower
K1515B Rear Shock Tower
K1517B Carbon Battery Strap w/ Blue Aluminum Heatsink
ACER Racing
N007 (12) 3/32 Ceramic Diff Balls
N006 (8) 5/64 Ceramic Diff Balls
CA004 Ceramic Pro Series Bearing Set
Outerwears
44-2293 1/10 Scale Shock Outerwears – Flame Evolution
RPM
80082 Black Spur Gear Cover 5.99 MSRP
MIP
LXCC25 MIP Shiny Dogbones
I just ordered the following parts for my new T4 FT Kit - I'm gonna build it once and forget about it!
You guys see anything I missed? Or anything that I should consider changing?
Ohhh BTW this will be a Lipo powered truck.. Thus all the aluminum trying to get the weight back up.
Thanx!
Team Associated
9577 Steering Blocks*
6439 Blue Hard Anodized Shock Cap x 4
7459 Aluminum Inline Axle*
9635 Rear Sway Bar Kit
1105 Green Slime Shock O-Ring Lube
1787 Factory Team Battery Strap Thumb Screws
1734 Factory Team Body Clips
1766 Lightweight Outdrive Set
1777 Shock Pivot Ball
1780 Shock Bushing
9787 Chassis Protective Film
Lunsford
7109 Long Broach 1/10th Scale Ball Studs
7901 Fat Boy Short Motor Screws
14014 RC10T4 Super Duty Plus Combo Kit - 3.5mm TBuckles and Hingepins
K-Factory
K1503B Blue Alu. Rear Hub Carrier w/ Carbon Camber Plates
K1501B Blue Alu. Steering Blocks and Hardened Shaft*
K1509B Blue Alu. Steering Rack
K1505B Blue Alu. Front Bulkhead
K1508 Carbon Steering Brace
K1511B Blue Alu. Rear Brace
K1514B Front Shock Tower
K1515B Rear Shock Tower
K1517B Carbon Battery Strap w/ Blue Aluminum Heatsink
ACER Racing
N007 (12) 3/32 Ceramic Diff Balls
N006 (8) 5/64 Ceramic Diff Balls
CA004 Ceramic Pro Series Bearing Set
Outerwears
44-2293 1/10 Scale Shock Outerwears – Flame Evolution
RPM
80082 Black Spur Gear Cover 5.99 MSRP
MIP
LXCC25 MIP Shiny Dogbones
