RC10B4/T4 Forum
#5896
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
Yeah Ceramic bearings aren't really necessary. I put them in my car, and honestly, it didn't make a difference. I still have to service the diff the same amount.
Really add the weights as shown elsewhere in this thread. The kit bearings aren't the best for the rear hubs. perhaps upgrade to the B44 rear hubs, or the Quick Hub Change (Not sure that uses a different size bearing though).
Check your arms to make sure that the hinge pins rotate freely. I always have to reem out mine as they tend to bind.
PB
Really add the weights as shown elsewhere in this thread. The kit bearings aren't the best for the rear hubs. perhaps upgrade to the B44 rear hubs, or the Quick Hub Change (Not sure that uses a different size bearing though).
Check your arms to make sure that the hinge pins rotate freely. I always have to reem out mine as they tend to bind.
PB
I would just put titanium ballstuds in the rear of the T4 and keep the shocks fresh.
#5897
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (97)
Thanx for the responses guys..
My track actually runs a 13.5 Brushless class that we call the stock class.
Racing is SO tight in this class that every advantage helps... I mean there are 4 of us in this class that finish within 3 or 4 tenths of each other in an 8 minute main. Really nice to have any advantage I can get.
So if you all have any other tricks please let me know.
Now as for the titanium ball studs... Where the heck can I get those!? I've been looking but can't find them!
Thanx!
My track actually runs a 13.5 Brushless class that we call the stock class.
Racing is SO tight in this class that every advantage helps... I mean there are 4 of us in this class that finish within 3 or 4 tenths of each other in an 8 minute main. Really nice to have any advantage I can get.
So if you all have any other tricks please let me know.
Now as for the titanium ball studs... Where the heck can I get those!? I've been looking but can't find them!
Thanx!
#5898
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
I would get the long ones for the rear so you can put a nut on the backside so they can't sllop or rip out do the same for all the ball studs except fot the steering rack obviously. They also have the ones that have the hex in the end where you use a allen driver to screw them in instead of using a nut driver
#5899
Its called the "rear end bell" ....
#5900
Tech Rookie
Guys, I am buying a lipo pack soon. what do you reccomend for all around racing. Ty.
#5901
Tech Master
iTrader: (114)
In the summertime here, the local outdoor track sometimes runs 20 minute mains and I think when you gear the truck right, you can make the 20 minutes on a 5000mah pack.
I run some pretty inexpensive hardcase Lipos (Yuntong 20C) and they work great. I've been using the same packs since last year and no issues so far...plus they can be had for around $75 or less!
#5904
b4 cvd question
Can anyone tell me if the MIP1550 Shiny CVD Kit will work on a factory team b4?
The ebay seller says "This kit will only work for the B4 RTR".
Also, is there any advantage to using the shinny cvds?
Thanks
The ebay seller says "This kit will only work for the B4 RTR".
Also, is there any advantage to using the shinny cvds?
Thanks
#5906
Ok, thank you.
#5908
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Won't work, the bones are a different length. Go to the b44 section and Coach talked about this a few pages back. He said to get the shiny BJ4 CVD's from Jconcepts, and then use the B4 stub axle on the rear and the BJ4 stub axle on the front. No real advantage to the shiny ones that I've ever seen, they're just pretty.
#5909
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
Won't work, the bones are a different length. Go to the b44 section and Coach talked about this a few pages back. He said to get the shiny BJ4 CVD's from Jconcepts, and then use the B4 stub axle on the rear and the BJ4 stub axle on the front. No real advantage to the shiny ones that I've ever seen, they're just pretty.
but I will have to goto that page and read it myself
in hard packed clay blue groove condition, I found it helped little to have shiny bones, like that good ole Dalton raceway, GA
#5910
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Not quite sure we're on the same page. AE 9763 is the center CVA shaft for the B44, so 9763 is obviously not the same part as the MIP 1550. AE 9754 is the rear bone for the B44, AE 9597 is the bone for the B4, so obviously not the same part either. My guess is that the MIP 1550 is the equivalent of the AE 9597 (B4 bone), just shinier LOL.