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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 10-30-2008, 10:34 AM
  #5896  
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Originally Posted by Tubaboy View Post
Yeah Ceramic bearings aren't really necessary. I put them in my car, and honestly, it didn't make a difference. I still have to service the diff the same amount.

Really add the weights as shown elsewhere in this thread. The kit bearings aren't the best for the rear hubs. perhaps upgrade to the B44 rear hubs, or the Quick Hub Change (Not sure that uses a different size bearing though).

Check your arms to make sure that the hinge pins rotate freely. I always have to reem out mine as they tend to bind.

PB
QC doesn't alter the hub, b44 hubs are compatible with the QC though.

I would just put titanium ballstuds in the rear of the T4 and keep the shocks fresh.
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:44 AM
  #5897  
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Thanx for the responses guys..

My track actually runs a 13.5 Brushless class that we call the stock class.

Racing is SO tight in this class that every advantage helps... I mean there are 4 of us in this class that finish within 3 or 4 tenths of each other in an 8 minute main. Really nice to have any advantage I can get.

So if you all have any other tricks please let me know.

Now as for the titanium ball studs... Where the heck can I get those!? I've been looking but can't find them!

Thanx!
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:45 AM
  #5898  
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I would get the long ones for the rear so you can put a nut on the backside so they can't sllop or rip out do the same for all the ball studs except fot the steering rack obviously. They also have the ones that have the hex in the end where you use a allen driver to screw them in instead of using a nut driver
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:49 AM
  #5899  
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Originally Posted by ddd228 View Post
Please excuse me for not asking about your wing mount..It's a Novak BL motor question,if you don't mind: What is the part called that the 3 wires are soldered on the black plastic plate? End bell end piece?Mine is cracked. Thanks George.

Its called the "rear end bell" ....
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:56 AM
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Guys, I am buying a lipo pack soon. what do you reccomend for all around racing. Ty.
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by longcaceres View Post
Guys, I am buying a lipo pack soon. what do you reccomend for all around racing. Ty.
I run 2S 5000mah lipos with a MM 5700 but it all depends on the length of the mains you're running in. Most mains where I race are about 10 minutes so a 5000mah has plenty of power. You would probably be okay with a 3600 or 4000mah as well.

In the summertime here, the local outdoor track sometimes runs 20 minute mains and I think when you gear the truck right, you can make the 20 minutes on a 5000mah pack.

I run some pretty inexpensive hardcase Lipos (Yuntong 20C) and they work great. I've been using the same packs since last year and no issues so far...plus they can be had for around $75 or less!
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by longcaceres View Post
Guys, I am buying a lipo pack soon. what do you reccomend for all around racing. Ty.
SMC 5000 lipo is awesome. My buddy has one and it has crazy rip !
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidR View Post

Now as for the titanium ball studs... Where the heck can I get those!? I've been looking but can't find them!

Thanx!
Losi ti ballstuds is what i use, they have the hex on top for a driver. Get the long ones.
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Old 10-30-2008, 06:22 PM
  #5904  
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Default b4 cvd question

Can anyone tell me if the MIP1550 Shiny CVD Kit will work on a factory team b4?
The ebay seller says "This kit will only work for the B4 RTR".
Also, is there any advantage to using the shinny cvds?


Thanks
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Old 10-30-2008, 06:45 PM
  #5905  
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Originally Posted by jph View Post
Can anyone tell me if the MIP1550 Shiny CVD Kit will work on a factory team b4?
The ebay seller says "This kit will only work for the B4 RTR".
Also, is there any advantage to using the shinny cvds?


Thanks
yes it works, they olny say that cause FT kit only need that bone to make that kit, shiny have less friction, free up the rear suspension parts little.

Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 10-30-2008 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 10-30-2008, 07:01 PM
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Ok, thank you.
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Old 10-30-2008, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE View Post
Losi ti ballstuds is what i use, they have the hex on top for a driver. Get the long ones.
If you can not find the Losi then Lunsford makes 3 different lengths in a 4-40 .
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:05 AM
  #5908  
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Originally Posted by jph View Post
Can anyone tell me if the MIP1550 Shiny CVD Kit will work on a factory team b4?
The ebay seller says "This kit will only work for the B4 RTR".
Also, is there any advantage to using the shinny cvds?


Thanks
Won't work, the bones are a different length. Go to the b44 section and Coach talked about this a few pages back. He said to get the shiny BJ4 CVD's from Jconcepts, and then use the B4 stub axle on the rear and the BJ4 stub axle on the front. No real advantage to the shiny ones that I've ever seen, they're just pretty.
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Old 10-31-2008, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cjtamu View Post
Won't work, the bones are a different length. Go to the b44 section and Coach talked about this a few pages back. He said to get the shiny BJ4 CVD's from Jconcepts, and then use the B4 stub axle on the rear and the BJ4 stub axle on the front. No real advantage to the shiny ones that I've ever seen, they're just pretty.
you mean ASC9673 is not smae bones as MIP1550 ? hmmm if coach said so I bielive it~
but I will have to goto that page and read it myself

in hard packed clay blue groove condition, I found it helped little to have shiny bones, like that good ole Dalton raceway, GA
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Old 10-31-2008, 10:13 AM
  #5910  
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
you mean ASC9673 is not smae bones as MIP1550 ? hmmm if coach said so I bielive it~
but I will have to goto that page and read it myself

in hard packed clay blue groove condition, I found it helped little to have shiny bones, like that good ole Dalton raceway, GA
Not quite sure we're on the same page. AE 9763 is the center CVA shaft for the B44, so 9763 is obviously not the same part as the MIP 1550. AE 9754 is the rear bone for the B44, AE 9597 is the bone for the B4, so obviously not the same part either. My guess is that the MIP 1550 is the equivalent of the AE 9597 (B4 bone), just shinier LOL.
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