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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 08-15-2008, 08:50 AM
  #5176  
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Originally Posted by 2wdMod View Post
cherry you make that sound like a good thing. I have had nothing but bad luck with the new AE wheels on my T4. they like to crack in the tire bead area where you glue the tire.

I have`nt experience any cracking problems ...

Do know the new rims are straight & true
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:00 AM
  #5177  
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Originally Posted by Mertz View Post
ASC7988 is the part number to convert your t4 to quick change. You use regular t4 arms and everything, nothin changes just the axle is now the posi-lock attachment.
Thank you!!! The J Concepts T4 Rulux wheels be out at the end of the month and the rear wheel are posi-lock wheels only
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Old 08-15-2008, 02:59 PM
  #5178  
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New here, but this is my set up:

T4RS
Spektrum DX 2.0
Novak 6.5R brushless motor
GTB esc
2S2P Lipo
Black swaybar, 35wt in fronts silver springs, 30wt in rear green springs.

Last edited by All in; 08-15-2008 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 08-17-2008, 12:01 PM
  #5179  
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anyone have a set-up for a b4 at ocrc? shock oil,springs and shock length?
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Old 08-18-2008, 03:09 PM
  #5180  
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I've been racing on-road for years...but making the switch to stadium truck just because there is a track closer. I'm sure this has been asked a million times..but what gearing should I run for a 13.5 on a pretty big 8th scale hard packed clay track? Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-18-2008, 06:09 PM
  #5181  
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Default Newbie going to brushless.....

Finally got around to ordering the Novak 6.5 system for my T4 today!!! Is there anything else that I will need to get the set-up installed and going? What gearing should I go with (just messing around in an open area). When I go to the track (someday I will) it is an 1/8 scale track, so what gearing should I go with??

THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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Old 08-18-2008, 06:29 PM
  #5182  
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Sorry to bother everyone with such a simple question. I need to get another brushed motor for my sons T-4. Just wanted to know what will get as some motors do not fit because of the extra dimple they have on the end.

Thank you in advance for the help.
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:33 PM
  #5183  
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If you're wanting to get a stock motor (27t) get a Trinity CO27 "Pro Tweaked" motor, or one of the optimized versions from the likes of Murfdogg Motor Works or Banzai. They're really good motors. I went through a couple different motors before I tried the CO27 and it's been just great. I have one that's optimized and one that's straight out of the blister pack, and I definitely notice a lot more "umph" out of the optimized one.
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Old 08-19-2008, 07:16 AM
  #5184  
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Originally Posted by PorTX View Post
Finally got around to ordering the Novak 6.5 system for my T4 today!!! Is there anything else that I will need to get the set-up installed and going? What gearing should I go with (just messing around in an open area). When I go to the track (someday I will) it is an 1/8 scale track, so what gearing should I go with??

THANKS IN ADVANCE!
I run the same set up on a similar track in FL Lake park. I run 6.5R with 20/87 seems almost perfect. add weight or the truck is to light.
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Old 08-19-2008, 08:15 PM
  #5185  
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Originally Posted by Stagger2 View Post
It could, did you shorten the new ant., did you put it in or someone else? if you cut it, that will cause you problems each band has an optimal length that is best changing this is not a good idea, if when soldered in, the solder joint was bad or "cold" it would not make a good contact or a lick of solder could make contact elsewhere on the board itself causing the issue.

Chad O
Hey Stagger2, just to let you know your advise on checking the solder on the new antenna turned out to be the problem. There was a slight bit of solder right next to where the antenna area was. Once the solder was taken off the T3 was back to normal. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 08-19-2008, 08:23 PM
  #5186  
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Originally Posted by rgrg2 View Post
Hey Stagger2, just to let you know your advise on checking the solder on the new antenna turned out to be the problem. There was a slight bit of solder right next to where the antenna area was. Once the solder was taken off the T3 was back to normal. Thanks for the idea.
Good to hear you got it fixed and glad to help as always.

Chad O
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Old 08-19-2008, 09:49 PM
  #5187  
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Is there any other items I need to get while I am at the lhs for the installation of the brushless system? Will I need any extras (wires, plugs etc)?? Do the motors require any covers (dust shields) or anything? With the Novak 6.5 setup in my T4.....any idea how long I will get from a 3000 ni-mh or a 4600 ni-mh? I am planning to switch to lipos, but not before the upcoming track day. This would be my first track day...if everything comes in and install goes smooth.
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Old 08-19-2008, 11:01 PM
  #5188  
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Racer x 1... Take Wild Cherrys advice. Go to rc10.com and check out the Team drivers set-up sheets. You will notice they have not been that drastically different in the past 4 years (between drivers that is).

I use Scott Brown's 2004 Cactus setup and I also like Ryan Cavalieri's 2007 Hotrod Hobbies Setup. Ryans setup is almost the same with a softer front end.

Bottom line, get your setup in the ball park then work from there. You will be just fine...the B4 is an excellent buggy.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:28 PM
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racer x 1- talking to Frank Root, I ended up with Ryan Maifield's 2007 JConcepts setup. Just go 5 wt lighter in the oil front and rear and green springs in the rear. With Proline wide front tibs and holeshots on the rear, both in M3 compound( and with buggy grip), you should be in the ballpark. And I ran every gear from 78-21 to 81 26 with an LRP 8.5 with a sintered rotor. I had my fastest lap, mid 17's with 81-23, but liked 81-24 the most and think once I adjust my lines a little, should be the hot ticket for gearing. I found gearing taller on the LRP helps the car carry more speed, but means you have to brake more. Gearing lower helped with drag brake, so it made the car a little easier to drive. Play with gearing and don't be afraid to play with the speed control settings either. I didn't really move my setup around a lot, but played with the motor and speed control and slipper the most.
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Old 08-20-2008, 03:41 PM
  #5190  
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Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
racer x 1- talking to Frank Root, I ended up with Ryan Maifield's 2007 JConcepts setup. Just go 5 wt lighter in the oil front and rear and green springs in the rear. With Proline wide front tibs and holeshots on the rear, both in M3 compound( and with buggy grip), you should be in the ballpark. And I ran every gear from 78-21 to 81 26 with an LRP 8.5 with a sintered rotor. I had my fastest lap, mid 17's with 81-23, but liked 81-24 the most and think once I adjust my lines a little, should be the hot ticket for gearing. I found gearing taller on the LRP helps the car carry more speed, but means you have to brake more. Gearing lower helped with drag brake, so it made the car a little easier to drive. Play with gearing and don't be afraid to play with the speed control settings either. I didn't really move my setup around a lot, but played with the motor and speed control and slipper the most.
What rear shock tower position on Ryan Maifields clash set up are they using? Doesnt show which one.


On a side note what does going to the outside hole on the rear hub do on a B4? I have seen people running that at OCRC and just wanted to know?
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