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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-17-2008, 07:54 PM
  #4801  
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Originally Posted by SQC049
What? You're in the forum for T4s and B4s. Post your questions here. Or better yet, search this thread for your questions. I'm sure they have been answered 2 - 300 times already.

The following errors occurred with your search:
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Old 06-17-2008, 08:18 PM
  #4802  
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Looking for the differences in the SE rtr kit and the RS rtr kit. Are the major parts the same (A-arms, wheels, transmission parts, shock towers) and interchangeable?? Are the electronics the same? Does either of the kits have electronics that are more acceptable to use with Lipo batteries?

Just would like to find out before I head to the hobby shop tomorrow.

Last edited by PorTX; 06-17-2008 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:23 PM
  #4803  
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Originally Posted by PorTX
Looking for the differences in the SE rtr kit and the RS rtr kit. Are the major parts the same (A-arms, wheels, transmission parts, shock towers) and interchangeable?? Are the electronics the same? Does either of the kits have electronics that are more acceptable to use with Lipo batteries?

Just would like to find out before I head to the hobby shop tomorrow.
All the parts on any of the rc10t4's will be interchangeable, but the rtr's will not have any of the good stuff on them, ie. steering rack bearings, cvd's, lightened outdrives, etcetera. The RS is the latest version of the rtr with a 17t motor. The SE has a 15t motor (I believe). Regardless neither of the motors will be good for racing, and if you plan to race you will probably want a different speedo and tx. Your lipo battery, assuming 7.4v will work fine.
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:32 PM
  #4804  
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Thanks for the reply. I am just starting out so I have nothing! I plan to buy batteries tomorrow. I just need to figure out which ones will be best for either kit. I understand that the RTR kits are not race ready. I just want to get my feet wet and I see no reason to do that with a $1000 set-up. I just want to make sure that whatever kit I end up with, I can get parts for it! And that I can run a decent battery (without worrying if I am going to fry the ESP) so I can get some driving time!
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:46 AM
  #4805  
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Who said you can't race a RTR T4? I race my T4 and it was a RTR, the only thing I did to it at the time was get a set of CVD's, and then later I got a set of turnbuckles (the steel ones are a little on the week side). Other then that it is still the same RTR that I bought when I first started (well execpt a few new parts here and there to keep it running nicely and to get rid of slop)

The Li-po should work fine with the ESC, only you will have to be sure not to discharge the battery too far as I am not sure if it has a li-op cut off or not.

As for the motor, they have a lot of power for a new racer, and I also know that they can keep up with some of the faster motors out there, only they will only last a few weeks at most before you need a new one (you can't cut the comm on them, other wise you would be fine)
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:51 AM
  #4806  
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Long story (actually started Monday) but the bright side is I now have a T4 to mess with. It was not what I thought I was getting. Thats partly my fault for not knowing that there could be 2 different models on the shelf and which one was the most current. Anyway, it will be fine to get my feet wet!

Last edited by PorTX; 06-18-2008 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:10 PM
  #4807  
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RS RTR are good for starting out. That's what I started out w/... I didn't have any parts to build a FT so it was alot cheaper! and at the time the FT chassis were carbon...plastic parts are the way to go, more flex thus more trackion. Esc and motor are a waste but will work until you can upgrade. Most of the missing FT parts are parts I'd upgrade or eventually wear out and replace anyways. the FT turnbuckles are weak..lunsford's are bigger/stronger. CVDs & lighten outdrives are nice but you can replace/upgrade to those once the dog bones and outdrives wear out. the FT shock bodies are nice but I don't mind the spacers. I would buy some extra bearings to replace the bushings in the steering block and in the diff. Be sure you look up the right part numbers in the manual for the bearings...the diff ones are hard to find and are similar to a TC4 steering rack bearings but the inner diameters are NOT the same!!

You can buy a Novak (20-30$) lipo cut off but I'm only assuming it will work w/ any ESC...don't know of sure. Mine was for an older GTB w/o the builtin cutoff. Worst case if feel the car/pack falling off STOP....save your 30$ for a brushless system!
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:59 PM
  #4808  
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I actually ended up with a SE kit. Like I said, it was partly my fault for not knowing that there could be 2 kits on the shelves. Just wished it would have been mentioned in the purchase that the kit was a discontinued item. Anyway, things will get upgraded as needed and a lesson was learned! I would venture to say that in the next 2-3 months I will be asking more dumb questions as I come across issues! But once again, the bright side......driving in the back of the pack is better than not driving at all.
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:08 PM
  #4809  
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I need a quick set up. Just bought a new T4!

Plan on running silver rear/blue front like everyone at local track. Need piston sizes and oil weights.

THX
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:09 PM
  #4810  
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Originally Posted by PorTX
I actually ended up with a SE kit. Like I said, it was partly my fault for not knowing that there could be 2 kits on the shelves. Just wished it would have been mentioned in the purchase that the kit was a discontinued item. Anyway, things will get upgraded as needed and a lesson was learned! I would venture to say that in the next 2-3 months I will be asking more dumb questions as I come across issues! But once again, the bright side......driving in the back of the pack is better than not driving at all.
Kit? as in not ready to run..your building it? First kit build? I got some building tips and common issues/cures I wrote up around here somewheres...I try to find them if your interested.

My first every dirt race w/ my RS RTR B4 I took 3rd at the local club race..no reason you'll be in the back of the pack if you can drive consistently!
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Old 06-18-2008, 02:17 PM
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It is a RTR setup. Drove it for one battery today. We got about 7-10 minutes on just a basic 3000mah Nihm battery. As I was expecting, the servo is almost a waste. It has hardly any steering at all. So that will be something that I will get corrected in the not so distance future. I am not in any rush to get to the track so I will take my time and work out some issues with the set-up and of course my driving. I think for me to get into the hobby, the RTR kit was the best choice. Once I get more up to speed on things I will build a complete new set-up and this T4 will be for my wife to drive.
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Old 06-18-2008, 03:28 PM
  #4812  
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Well for a truck servo, get something with a torque spec around 120oz-in at 6v, and don't bother with anything that isn't metal-geared.
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Old 06-18-2008, 03:41 PM
  #4813  
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Originally Posted by OTE_TheMissile
Well for a truck servo, get something with a torque spec around 120oz-in at 6v, and don't bother with anything that isn't metal-geared.

Thanks for the input. I am trying to put together an order for some batteries and some tires so I am currently looking for a model # of a good metal geared Airtronics servo!
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:23 PM
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hey, i just built my factory team T4 and will be trying it out for the first time this weekend. any gearing suggestions for a Novak 6.5 ? i believe there is a 87 spur on there from AE...and i have pinions 20, 22, 24 and maybe a 26. any of those work?

i will also be trying the lipo stuff with this truck...seems like everyone is adding weight to the cars too. any recommendations?
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:26 PM
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I would say the 20 would be your best bet out of the ones you have, although I would start at around a 18t pin.
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