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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-09-2008, 01:37 PM
  #4726  
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Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
My experience... the stock Ti blue ones can bend much easier than the thicker lunsford ti buckles. I've bent some back straight. the effect of bent buckles or tweaked ball cups will have inconsisent camber gains. When my car is inconsistent when it hasn't been, I check the camber first, tweak bunkles or loose balls studs.
Thanks speedsterblade, I thought this could be the case, justneeded to here it for sure.
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Old 06-09-2008, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tcmerf View Post
I was running the 3600 Orion but i was only running 3 oz extra,1.5 in front of the battery and 1.5 in back of it. I know a lot of guys run 1.5 in the back with NiMh. The weight difference is 7oz on my wife culinary scale. I picked up some black rear and blue front springs and am going to try that first and went to 30 in the back and 35 in the front. I also took out all of the limiters in the back and left 2 in the front to try to get it to roll a little more as it seems side to side was my issue. Roll center is one thing i have never really gotten a grasp on though. if i lower the inside camber link mount is that going to give more traction at that end correct. In other words i have 2 spacers under the front inner mount on the shock tower, if i take one out it will have more steering. Is that right? I used to have the Xray tuning guide fro off road but i cant find it.
By leaving the spacers in your front shocks you stop the weight transfer to the rear of the car. If your looking for more rear grip, you'll need more weight transfer to the rear so taking out one or both spacers in the front and adding one to the rear will accomplish this.
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Old 06-09-2008, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by badassrevo View Post
What body seems to last the longest on the T4?
The one you spend the least amount of time skidding upside down on

I've got a four year old Pro-Line Chevy Silverado that's just now threatening to have the rear spoiler area fall off, but just like everything else Pro-Line ever made that was worth buying, they've long since discontinued it. This winter I'm thinking about picking up a McAllister Desert T. My GT2 is on its second Heavy Metal GT and I run his Bluegrass on my TC Late Model, guy does good work and is super nice to deal with over email.
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Old 06-09-2008, 02:19 PM
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Hey guys--just setting my first electric truck up (die-hard on-roader here). I need a couple tire recommendations for the T4 on a HARD packed dusty surface.

Fronts and rears.

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 06-09-2008, 02:37 PM
  #4730  
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There`s no ,magic one tire , track condition`s vary track to track....


where you are racing would help answer your request .....
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Old 06-09-2008, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Hey guys--just setting my first electric truck up (die-hard on-roader here). I need a couple tire recommendations for the T4 on a HARD packed dusty surface.

Fronts and rears.

Thanks,

Scottrik

Depends on how dusty you are talking.....outdoor, hard pack that is really dusty I'd try the Proline bowties or the JC goose bumps. Indoor, barely dusty coating......holeshot or JC doubledees?
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Old 06-09-2008, 03:54 PM
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oh, I run ribs on the front....
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Old 06-09-2008, 05:45 PM
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It's outdoors and fairly dusty. They blow the track off usually twice each day--once before racing starts and once before the mains. Even so, the class I'll be running in (nitro truck) is usually one of the last two mains so it's usually getting dusty again.

This is at the Billings Flying Mustangs track, not that that would mean anything to anybody. And it ain't like I can ask other racers because I'll be the first guy who really "runs" electric there. The guys running Nitro truck (who I'll be racing with) really only run this class as "something else to run" (mostly to dodge cornering I think) so none of them are really serious about figuring it out. I saw mostly step-pins and bowties, none of which worked especially well I thought. Then again, maybe that's about as good as it gets.
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Old 06-09-2008, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
There`s no ,magic one tire , track condition`s vary track to track....
I'm not looking for the "one true tire choice"--just a couple suggestions where to start. I know with 1/12 there is a tire combination that will "work" with a given power level pretty much anywhere--it's often not the ideal, but it's a good starting point.


Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
Depends on how dusty you are talking.....outdoor, hard pack that is really dusty I'd try the Proline bowties or the JC goose bumps. Indoor, barely dusty coating......holeshot or JC doubledees?
Ok--I did see a couple guys were running Bowties. What compound would you recommend for starters? It'd be nice if these lasted a while...

Thanks guys,

Scottrik
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Old 06-09-2008, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tcmerf View Post
I was running the 3600 Orion but i was only running 3 oz extra,1.5 in front of the battery and 1.5 in back of it. I know a lot of guys run 1.5 in the back with NiMh. The weight difference is 7oz on my wife culinary scale. I picked up some black rear and blue front springs and am going to try that first and went to 30 in the back and 35 in the front. I also took out all of the limiters in the back and left 2 in the front to try to get it to roll a little more as it seems side to side was my issue. Roll center is one thing i have never really gotten a grasp on though. if i lower the inside camber link mount is that going to give more traction at that end correct. In other words i have 2 spacers under the front inner mount on the shock tower, if i take one out it will have more steering. Is that right? I used to have the Xray tuning guide fro off road but i cant find it.
Adding shims to the inside ball stud will lower your roll center, thus giving the center of gravity more leverage on the roll center which will make the car roll easier in the corner. But don't add so many that the link is angled down to the outside, that will mess your camber change up as you roll. Long parallel links (upper link and a-arm) ultimately give the most leverage for rolling into a corner, however a shorter upper link will make the car roll faster, but not as much overall roll.

Limiters in the shocks; While taking limiters out of the rear shocks will allow the truck to roll more form side to side without lifting a tire, it will also transfer more weight to the front during corner entry, which could make you loose upon entering the corner.

Originally Posted by Scottrik
Ok--I did see a couple guys were running Bowties. What compound would you recommend for starters? It'd be nice if these lasted a while...

Thanks guys,

Scottrik
We run a track with a hard packed clay surface, but with dust and sand on the top. We sweep it off and water it. When it is wet, ifmar step pins (silver) are really good, but don't last very long. When it is dry ifmar pins (red) or studs (red) seem a little better. Regardless, when it is dry we go through harder compounds faster than softer compounds. We have tried about all the main tires that people run on the track and the above seems to be the consensus. However nobody has yet tried the goosebumps, which are next on my list to try. I have never been able to get bowties to hook up on the track.
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Old 06-10-2008, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
Adding shims to the inside ball stud will lower your roll center, thus giving the center of gravity more leverage on the roll center which will make the car roll easier in the corner.
I think you may have it backwards. Adding shims to the inside ball stud will raise the roll center. Adding shims gains forward traction, removing them gains side bite. Everything else that was typed looks good though.
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:54 AM
  #4737  
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I actually found the old article with the Mayfileds Cactus truck last year and they mentioned the lower position on the GT2 shock tower made the truck want to push a little.
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:09 AM
  #4738  
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Originally Posted by d4man View Post
I think you may have it backwards. Adding shims to the inside ball stud will raise the roll center. Adding shims gains forward traction, removing them gains side bite. Everything else that was typed looks good though.
I think you have it backwards... Adding shims to the inside ball stud will lower the roll center according to the textbook definition for finding the roll center, you know, the one where you draw lines through the two links, find the intersection, draw another line from there to the center of the tire contact patch and where that final line intersects the center line is the roll center.

Or, you define roll center height differently. WTF?????
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:12 AM
  #4739  
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I'm showing the work...

edit: Apparently, I failed at drawing the line to the center of the contact patch, oops.
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-really.jpg  

Last edited by Tee; 06-10-2008 at 08:15 AM. Reason: picture incorrect
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:40 AM
  #4740  
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Anyone help with some gear ratios for a T4 lrp x11 brushless.4.5 and 5.5 thanks.
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