RC10B4/T4 Forum
#4471
Tech Adept
Got another question. I just got my E-Maxx so I have something else to break. I am now taking my RC10B4 more seriously. Not sure if I will get to race it but I am only going to use it for off-road running on acceptable terrain. I like the blue aluminum as it looks pretty but I also understand (thanks to the awesome info I get here from you guys) that it has its issues along with carbon.
My question is what is a good combination of aluminum/carbon that you would put on this buggy for high performance, good looks and durability?
This car isn't going to get as much action now that I have a REAL basher and as I said it will only see time on acceptable terrain and tracks (if I can find any near me...working on fixing that though). I won't be flying this thing off of 6 foot jumps anymore or racing full size cars in the parking lot at the mall. Construction sites are off-limits as well. My friends aren't even allowed to use it.
My question is what is a good combination of aluminum/carbon that you would put on this buggy for high performance, good looks and durability?
This car isn't going to get as much action now that I have a REAL basher and as I said it will only see time on acceptable terrain and tracks (if I can find any near me...working on fixing that though). I won't be flying this thing off of 6 foot jumps anymore or racing full size cars in the parking lot at the mall. Construction sites are off-limits as well. My friends aren't even allowed to use it.
#4472
Unless you're racing I'd advise you to stay away from carbon/graphite. Just beating around you're not going to see any major difference in handing, only in the cost of parts & how often they break. Nylon's cheaper and more forgiving. If you're dead-set on getting some graphite, get control arms.
As for aluminum, the front hinge pin brace is a must-have. On my T4 I race with a set of Racer's Edge aluminum rear hub carriers, just because the hinge pin boss on the stock graphite piece wears out quickly. I've been meaning to look into what a set of aluminum front uprights ("C-hubs" to the new-schoolers) goes for.
As for aluminum, the front hinge pin brace is a must-have. On my T4 I race with a set of Racer's Edge aluminum rear hub carriers, just because the hinge pin boss on the stock graphite piece wears out quickly. I've been meaning to look into what a set of aluminum front uprights ("C-hubs" to the new-schoolers) goes for.
#4473
Tech Adept
Thanks for your insight. I already have the front hinge pin brace. You are right about that one, other things I was thinking about were aluminum servo mounts and servo saver and possibly the steering bellcranks or whatever they are called these days.
Ok. I guess I will stick with mainly nylon and save some dough.
Ok. I guess I will stick with mainly nylon and save some dough.
#4474
Servo mounts...I dunno, you'd have to have a REALLY psychotic servo to make those move around or even break, especially when all it has to do is move those itty bitty buggy tires. I've got 'em in my trucks because they came with 'em. I'd leave the bellcranks alone too, or even go with nylon there. Aluminum bellcranks (if any even exist, I've never heard) will probably just stress the ball cups.
Remember, these are racecars, the only thing that changes between the regular and the full Factory Team editions is the part materials. If they absolutely needed hot rod parts to be track-worthy, they'd already come with them.
Remember, these are racecars, the only thing that changes between the regular and the full Factory Team editions is the part materials. If they absolutely needed hot rod parts to be track-worthy, they'd already come with them.
#4478
#4480
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
AE shocks are easy to build. AE Green Slime is your friend. Helps out a great deal. Yeah, the losi shocks are easy to rebuild, but the AE shocks actuate alot better then the Losi's do. I would just stick with the AE and practice building them. If you follow the instructions to the letter it's easy and eventually you, like most of us, will be able to build them with your eyes closed.
#4482
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Don't know if anyone has seen this yet, Jconcepts has released the T4 hi-flow body along with sneak pics of there t4 rulux wheels!http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=237
#4483
hey guys, i have a T4 which is powered by a mamba 6900. at the moment and probly for ever its just going to be a bash arround truck. but with the posibility of racing. anyhow i was wondering what upgrades you would recomend carbon/graphite or alluminum. like what are the good ones to start with. also who makes them, cause im not to sure who sells them in australia but i have no problem with importing them
cheers
alex
cheers
alex
#4484
alum front bulkhead and maybe alum. rear motor guard... you don't need any other alum or any carbon parts. Read the thread, that is the reoccurring theme...you don't need the alum, too heavy....carbon breaks to easy and less flex.
#4485
when you buy the top of the line associated / losi racing truck or buggy theres really nothing out there that you have to put on it to gain performance or durabilty , the best thing to invest in is high quality electronics , some of the bling available does look really cool i'll admit , ray