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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 01-10-2008, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbonman View Post
If you are trying to get a final drive of 8.5 on a T4 and you are running a stock 87 tooth spur what pinion would you run?
http://www.rcracing.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=1100
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Old 01-10-2008, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
I mainly noticed extra punch with the lipos...but it's 200grams lighter to....but if you don't add ALL that weight to compensate for nihm packs then you can prolly go a little higher gearing. I have changed my gearing w/ the lipos but we also redid the track and I don't really recall when I changed it but I did go up a tooth on the pinion. Main thing...watch your motor/esc temps. Personally I've yet to really gear up a BL that was running over 140 degrees on the can.

truck/87 or buggy/81 spur? I can't really give you a good number too many varibles, but just remember...watch your motor/esc temps. Gear it so you are topping out just before the end of the longest straight.

we got a 100' straight and I'm running 26/84 in my b4 w/ the 10.5.. Also keep in mind each motor is different... all 10.5s are not alike..close but no motor is exactly the same.
Can I run 26/81, or is that 3 tooth on the spur a big difference.
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Old 01-10-2008, 11:48 PM
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That's what we've been using here in Hutchinson. 26/81 in the T4 with the 13.5ss pro. The motors and speedos are all in good temp range. But now that the track is under construction that might change. MIGHT. LOL.
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Old 01-11-2008, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnight View Post
Can I run 26/81, or is that 3 tooth on the spur a big difference.
I don't know the exact difference w/o looking it up on gearchart.com but I think/guess it's roughly like changing 1/2 a tooth on the Pinion....

Beside the larger spur moving the motor back and putting more weight on the rear tires it will also.....

More info from AE's site: http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...hhelpfaq.htm#5

What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a larger pinion and spur to achieve the same final/overall gear ratio?


Consider these 48 pitch gears:
69/23 = 7.50
72/24 = 7.50
75/25 = 7.50.
With the smaller spur it will spool up faster, meaning the motor will get to speed faster and with the larger spur, it will have more torque.
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Old 01-11-2008, 10:58 AM
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My B4, gotta love buggies!
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-b4buildup-016.jpg  
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
I don't know the exact difference w/o looking it up on gearchart.com but I think/guess it's roughly like changing 1/2 a tooth on the Pinion....

Beside the larger spur moving the motor back and putting more weight on the rear tires it will also.....

More info from AE's site: http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...hhelpfaq.htm#5

What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a larger pinion and spur to achieve the same final/overall gear ratio?


Consider these 48 pitch gears:
69/23 = 7.50
72/24 = 7.50
75/25 = 7.50.
With the smaller spur it will spool up faster, meaning the motor will get to speed faster and with the larger spur, it will have more torque.
Thanks bro and air8 also!!
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:57 PM
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I need a dialed setup that will make my rear end stick to the track and have mad steering for a B4. Running on an indoor high bite clay track running Pink taper slicks.
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Old 01-11-2008, 11:00 PM
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I run on a few HIGH bite tracks with pink slicks. 90% is the tire and foam. Taper fronts slicked with stock foam = mad steering. No less than bomb 1 greys in the rear and maybe blue. When the rear foams start to wear out there is no setup change to help the car. What track are you racing at? Lots of jumps/turns?
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Old 01-12-2008, 06:23 AM
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pics are right here

http://www.nmr-c.com/pictures.htm
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Old 01-12-2008, 07:03 AM
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Can anybody give me a starting point on gearing? I will be going brushless soon and have a LRP 13.5 w/sintered rotor. Track is an indoor, tight clay track with good traction.
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Old 01-12-2008, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
I need a dialed setup that will make my rear end stick to the track and have mad steering for a B4. Running on an indoor high bite clay track running Pink taper slicks.
Exactly what Rayls said. Be sure to add the weights in the rear of the car. That will help the car rotate better throgh the corners. As far as setup there are several. Go to RC10.com or Rc10b4.com. Tires and the weight added will make the most difference. It helps to be a bad azz driver like Adam to though!!
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Old 01-12-2008, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
Hey guy's new to the off road scene. pick up a t4 which i believa came from an rtr kit. just curious what would be need to get the t4 to race level specs. also what would one gear this with a 19turn.

also any info on how to adjust what what would be great. espcially the gear box.??? as i'm a TC an 12scale racer off road is completely new to me.

any info would be greatly appreciated hopefully to start practicing soon for the summer. or get her race ready.
Whats UP!! I'm a hardcore Tamiya fan also.
I love the B44, but wanna run a belt-drive in Oct.
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Old 01-12-2008, 02:02 PM
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Front, 35wt #1's Browns, shocks middle on tower out on arm.
Camber link 1 washer, inside/inside -1* axle mid 25* blocks

Rear, 30wt #2's Silvers, shocks inside/inside 1 limiter
Camber link 1washer, inside/middle -1* hubs mid

Battery, middle or back.
Add 1.5oz. weight
1 bumpsteer washer on spindle black ballstud on rack.
24.5 mm ride height front and rear
Unscrew front shock eyelet .060 OR use the new .080 shock shaft with 1 limiter inside More durable!
If you make slicks for the front out of tapers they will TURN!Thus the 25* castor blocks. The rear foam is paramount! IF it goes away no setup change will help.
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Old 01-12-2008, 02:30 PM
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i'm putting together a t4 now and i have one rear shock that the shock internals will not snap into the shock body, any suggestions?
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Old 01-12-2008, 02:37 PM
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Carefully get the seals back out of there and check all the plastics for flashing. Check again with the manual to be sure you have everything in order and use the plastic shock tool. Pull the shock body over the top of everything and then press down on the shock body, with end of the shock tool on a hard surface like a counter top, or table. After this look down in the body to see of the square shaped plasic retainer has all four corners covered by the groove at the bottom of the shock body. Not much too it. If you've been doing it this way already....I don't know what to tell ya. Sorry.
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