34LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
01-10-2008, 01:19 PM
#3871
Ratio chart
Originally Posted by Carbonman
If you are trying to get a final drive of 8.5 on a T4 and you are running a stock 87 tooth spur what pinion would you run?
01-10-2008, 08:13 PM
#3872
Originally Posted by speedsterblade
I mainly noticed extra punch with the lipos...but it's 200grams lighter to....but if you don't add ALL that weight to compensate for nihm packs then you can prolly go a little higher gearing. I have changed my gearing w/ the lipos but we also redid the track and I don't really recall when I changed it but I did go up a tooth on the pinion. Main thing...watch your motor/esc temps. Personally I've yet to really gear up a BL that was running over 140 degrees on the can.
truck/87 or buggy/81 spur? I can't really give you a good number too many varibles, but just remember...watch your motor/esc temps. Gear it so you are topping out just before the end of the longest straight.
we got a 100' straight and I'm running 26/84 in my b4 w/ the 10.5.. Also keep in mind each motor is different... all 10.5s are not alike..close but no motor is exactly the same.
truck/87 or buggy/81 spur? I can't really give you a good number too many varibles, but just remember...watch your motor/esc temps. Gear it so you are topping out just before the end of the longest straight.
we got a 100' straight and I'm running 26/84 in my b4 w/ the 10.5.. Also keep in mind each motor is different... all 10.5s are not alike..close but no motor is exactly the same.
01-11-2008, 10:24 AM
#3874
Originally Posted by Midnight
Can I run 26/81, or is that 3 tooth on the spur a big difference.
Beside the larger spur moving the motor back and putting more weight on the rear tires it will also.....
More info from AE's site: http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...hhelpfaq.htm#5
What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a larger pinion and spur to achieve the same final/overall gear ratio?
Consider these 48 pitch gears:
69/23 = 7.50
72/24 = 7.50
75/25 = 7.50.
With the smaller spur it will spool up faster, meaning the motor will get to speed faster and with the larger spur, it will have more torque.
01-11-2008, 10:58 AM
#3875
My B4, gotta love buggies!
01-11-2008, 04:09 PM
#3876
Originally Posted by speedsterblade
I don't know the exact difference w/o looking it up on gearchart.com but I think/guess it's roughly like changing 1/2 a tooth on the Pinion....
Beside the larger spur moving the motor back and putting more weight on the rear tires it will also.....
More info from AE's site: http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...hhelpfaq.htm#5
What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a larger pinion and spur to achieve the same final/overall gear ratio?
Consider these 48 pitch gears:
69/23 = 7.50
72/24 = 7.50
75/25 = 7.50.
With the smaller spur it will spool up faster, meaning the motor will get to speed faster and with the larger spur, it will have more torque.
Beside the larger spur moving the motor back and putting more weight on the rear tires it will also.....
More info from AE's site: http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...hhelpfaq.htm#5
What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a larger pinion and spur to achieve the same final/overall gear ratio?
Consider these 48 pitch gears:
69/23 = 7.50
72/24 = 7.50
75/25 = 7.50.
With the smaller spur it will spool up faster, meaning the motor will get to speed faster and with the larger spur, it will have more torque.
01-11-2008, 11:00 PM
#3878
I run on a few HIGH bite tracks with pink slicks. 90% is the tire and foam. Taper fronts slicked with stock foam = mad steering. No less than bomb 1 greys in the rear and maybe blue. When the rear foams start to wear out there is no setup change to help the car. What track are you racing at? Lots of jumps/turns?
01-12-2008, 07:13 AM
#3881
Originally Posted by BSchorr
I need a dialed setup that will make my rear end stick to the track and have mad steering for a B4. Running on an indoor high bite clay track running Pink taper slicks.
01-12-2008, 09:51 AM
#3882
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Hey guy's new to the off road scene. pick up a t4 which i believa came from an rtr kit. just curious what would be need to get the t4 to race level specs. also what would one gear this with a 19turn.
also any info on how to adjust what what would be great. espcially the gear box.??? as i'm a TC an 12scale racer off road is completely new to me.
any info would be greatly appreciated hopefully to start practicing soon for the summer. or get her race ready.
also any info on how to adjust what what would be great. espcially the gear box.??? as i'm a TC an 12scale racer off road is completely new to me.
any info would be greatly appreciated hopefully to start practicing soon for the summer. or get her race ready.
I love the B44, but wanna run a belt-drive in Oct.
01-12-2008, 02:02 PM
#3883
Front, 35wt #1's Browns, shocks middle on tower out on arm.
Camber link 1 washer, inside/inside -1* axle mid 25* blocks
Rear, 30wt #2's Silvers, shocks inside/inside 1 limiter
Camber link 1washer, inside/middle -1* hubs mid
Battery, middle or back.
Add 1.5oz. weight
1 bumpsteer washer on spindle black ballstud on rack.
24.5 mm ride height front and rear
Unscrew front shock eyelet .060 OR use the new .080 shock shaft with 1 limiter inside More durable!
If you make slicks for the front out of tapers they will TURN!Thus the 25* castor blocks. The rear foam is paramount! IF it goes away no setup change will help.
Camber link 1 washer, inside/inside -1* axle mid 25* blocks
Rear, 30wt #2's Silvers, shocks inside/inside 1 limiter
Camber link 1washer, inside/middle -1* hubs mid
Battery, middle or back.
Add 1.5oz. weight
1 bumpsteer washer on spindle black ballstud on rack.
24.5 mm ride height front and rear
Unscrew front shock eyelet .060 OR use the new .080 shock shaft with 1 limiter inside
More durable!If you make slicks for the front out of tapers they will TURN!Thus the 25* castor blocks. The rear foam is paramount! IF it goes away no setup change will help.
01-12-2008, 02:37 PM
#3885
Carefully get the seals back out of there and check all the plastics for flashing. Check again with the manual to be sure you have everything in order and use the plastic shock tool. Pull the shock body over the top of everything and then press down on the shock body, with end of the shock tool on a hard surface like a counter top, or table. After this look down in the body to see of the square shaped plasic retainer has all four corners covered by the groove at the bottom of the shock body. Not much too it. If you've been doing it this way already....I don't know what to tell ya. Sorry.
