mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

Well....when this car was designed on the CAD program...the top of the line ESC were half the size and weight of the current BL ESC's...and the new and light weight spektrum RX's weren't out yet....and BL motors weren't half an inch longer and none of this lipo stuff was available for us to be concerned with the Left or Right placement of weight in a car.

But suddenly now all this stuff is readily available on a racing platform and poses some items that were not addressed as a major part of chassis design. These cars were designed around a standard ESC, Brushed and 6C setup.

In my case, if you take a 15.7 ounce 6C battery and replace it with one that weighs 4.7 ounces....I don't care what you say, the car handles like crap without altering either 1, setup or 2, getting it back up to par on the scale. I have no desire to change my setup to accommodate a lighter battery.

Besides, weight offers FREE traction. Probably why the pros run a heavy 6C battery AND 1.5 oz under the rear of their cars AND 100% "TEAM" material plastic on their cars...not the FACTORY TEAM graphite...they run heavy and flexible cars because it works.

So I figure....if i'm going to be adding that much static weight into my car, and I'm running Lipo and i'm running BL and i'm running the big huge BL ESC....you do have more weight on the Left than the Right so why not at least try to even it out a little....

1/8 off road cars moving the engines closer to the center of the chassis...so it is more balanced and has less weight transfer from Left to Right. Why do you think HUDY offers metal pins to put under their TC's to balance the car from Left to Right? It works and it's obviously not "frivolous" to Mr. Hudy so...

Gitsum

iTrader: (1)

Being mainly a onroad guy I know balancing is NOT frivolous....a balanced car will be more consistent and easier to drive then one that isnt. As well if you take the time to balance offroad tires thats easily worth a few 10ths....

Crashtest1

iTrader: (3)

I disagree, we are not talking about on-road and I don't know of any pros that do this. Who knows though, in the grand scheme of things maybe he will be making history by going down and doing that...

I got an idea... empty out an old chassis,go to a welder and have him spray wax and melt lead into the empty chassis' carcass. Or check out the 3200 orion lipos with the rectangular chasm molded into the bottom of the case, fabricate some weight there.

In off-road 2wd buggies there will be no difference, I can tell you if my car is pushing more to the left or the right. Our cars push to the left exactly how they push to the right.

Matter of fact I got the Orions I was speaking of... I will see what I can do about weight to fit under there...

Project
-1 scale
-1 lipo
-1 trip to Home Depot
-1 handfull of weird stares

... and maybe see If I can find the perfect fit heavy plate (door hinge) that fits under the battery that I can attach to the chassis. Perfect CG. I'll keep u posted

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

on-road, off-road....why wouldn't you want to put the same level of detail into any car you race?

and why would you put a door hinge under your battery? You could just use the tire weights from any auto parts store...like everyone else.

I don't disagree that you couldn't tell if your car was pushing differently from left to right...anyone can feel that. More weight on the left and right side of the car wouldn't make it push more or less one way or the other....it will affect tire wear and balance in the mid-corner though.

I mean...we all make sure that the spring collars are in the same, the shaft rebound after we build shocks...we make sure they're the same or darn close, balance your tires...check camber is same from left to right...why wouldn't you balance your chassis?

Hell...why do we have balanced armatures? Because they run better!

Would you believe that I use shims and hair bands to take the slop out of my steering rack too? or that I use Kyosho 3mm ball studs and cups because they have less slop in them....

All of this in the search for a consistently consistent car....same reason we all go lipo and BL...same feel, every lap and every run. Tighten up your chassis so it runs the same every lap...the car becomes more predictable and you in turn can drive it harder and faster.

cfwdude

iTrader: (7)

you have a scrunchy on your rack

Crashtest1

iTrader: (3)

I'm thinking that if that be the case the guys that have been building the car for several decades maybe would have hinted it out to the pros that race for them. I'm just saying... the door hinge was a joke on someone who actually did it on this site. I have a nice b4 so I wouldn't put tire weight, nothing, no ghettoness in my car. I think Losi Centrallized the weight on their 8ight for the same reason I see factory drivers running centralized mass. The car is like a backward penjulum lobbing itself over jumps and centralized mass makes the car glide evenly. But try it man that would be sweet if you discovered something new.

pic of my P&J's

Crashtest1

iTrader: (3)

Oh, that mod you were talking about with shaving material off of the pin brace/back of battery tray. I was told to shave material off of the arms. If you are having breakage issues try that out. I talked to George, and he said you were at portland ,but I couldn't go race I had too much stuff to do. Are you coming up here for race #3 at TRCR for the ECT's? I can show you what I did, you can try it out and such. I've had Scott Brown personally tune my car and soaked in all tips he gave out. It sounds like you are in search of a lot of traction but did you know that you want the car to push a specific amount? That's why I no longer run panther bobcats up front, because they are way too agressive and the extra aggresiveness makes the car less consistent. It took me six months but I got a car that a pro could grab the controller with and take to the podium... now I just gotta get that whole driving thing down...

hope to c u oregon guys up here... If you need any help finding stuff pm me and I'll help in any way, I got the next week off.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

im using 4 plates i got from my local hardware, they are, Mending Plate, Zinc Coated, 3/16" thick, 1 & 1/4" wide, 2 & 10/16" long. each one is ~1.1oz per plate.

this leaves about 1/2 an oz to place where its needed to positively affect handling.

Shane Racer

iTrader: (4)

Can anyone tell me what size lipo I need to get to run a 5.5 or a 6.5 brushless in a t4 and race a 20 min. main.

mafiaracers

iTrader: (22)

I prefer red tapers with rear foams in them up front and pink tapers with bomb1's in the back. I'll most likely be heading up to TRCR in January.

Wild Cherry

4800 will do the job...
recommend a 7.5

Shane Racer

iTrader: (4)

Thanks wild cherry,

I have been running 8th scale for last 2 years but still run the electric big races. I always ran a 10x2 in truck and was looking for the same in brushless.

Shane Racer

iTrader: (4)

Also, What pinion range am I looking for?

speedsterblade

I can buy keeping the same 'dailed' setup. I'm just thinking if you can drop 200 grams and have a decent setup that would be better than the old 'dialed' setup why stay with the heavy setup? At my track there are some big jumps nimh cars just can't make and case more times than not but no problems for the -200g lighter lipo cars once you get some grip/decent setup on...not to mention they out accerate the nimh cars. I'm still tuning on the lipo setup but feel I got the weight balance I want. I'm lovin the lipo setup, ease of use and consistency! Defenitely the way to go...and less gear to carry to the track.

Wild Cherry

Shane ,

With a Lrp 7.5 & sintered rotor , you will be faster not slower , even if I gave you a faster wind ...

The 7.5 will be more efficient and smoother, power will be better than a brush 10 wind as well ...



Gearing

87/22 or 23 (T-4 & Lrp 7.5 sintered rotor, 20min)