Like Tree34Likes

RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 12-14-2007, 04:59 AM
  #3556  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
 
OG RC 10T's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2,658
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Though I didnt ask the question, thanks for all of the help.

I have been running my T4 10.5 with 87/19 and though the electronics were not hot, I was afraid to go higher. I just put in 87/23 and what a huge difference. Top end was great and now Im not spinning the wheels nearly as much.

I just didnt know it was ok to run that much gearing. Still temps good.
OG RC 10T is offline  
Old 12-14-2007, 05:36 AM
  #3557  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
 
air8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hutch, KS
Posts: 5,748
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Not sure about the other motor companies, but in the Novak BL manuals, they suggest to not go over 160 on the motor temp. I'm sure the motor can handle more, but that's their recommendation.

when using the 13.5 and lower 20's pinions the motor temps is only like 115-120 on 90 degree days. Right now we have been running mod truck and I use the 7.5 novak. 81/20 and all I can say is OMG!!! Rocket but controllable somehow. Motor is about 150 degrees at the end of a 7 min. main. Fun as h*** too.
air8 is offline  
Old 12-14-2007, 05:51 AM
  #3558  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mt. Holly, NC
Posts: 1,181
Default

Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Not sure about the other motor companies, but in the Novak BL manuals, they suggest to not go over 160 on the motor temp. I'm sure the motor can handle more, but that's their recommendation.

when using the 13.5 and lower 20's pinions the motor temps is only like 115-120 on 90 degree days. Right now we have been running mod truck and I use the 7.5 novak. 81/20 and all I can say is OMG!!! Rocket but controllable somehow. Motor is about 150 degrees at the end of a 7 min. main. Fun as h*** too.
Read the novak manual again, you will find the recommended operating temperture for the motor to be between 160 to 170 degrees.
Craps is offline  
Old 12-14-2007, 05:53 AM
  #3559  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
 
Teddygoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Eston,South Africa
Posts: 89
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hi,
Can in one in this thread tell me what the outer width of the B4 rear arms are at the inner hinge pins, as well as the inside width at the outer hinge pin?

Thanks
Teddygoat is offline  
Old 12-15-2007, 03:01 AM
  #3560  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
mafiaracers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 3,759
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Something interesting today.....

I got my car all prepped as I would normally do before a practice or qualifier...and decided to check my ride height. I dropped the car only my setup board from about 12 inches and let it settle on its own. Battery, Body, Wing are on. I reach for the collar adjusters and notice...the car seemed to be leaning to one side ever so slightly....but enough that I decided to drop the car again....and again and again and realized...the car IS sitting off to one side!

I pumped all the shocks and checked all down-travel and concluded that the car had ZERO binding. So I checked the inside of the car and concluded that it was heavy on the ESC side. I run a LRP sphere comp 07w/cap and a 13.5ss.

I also have a 56oz car with ALL weights running along the sides of the battery box on the outside of the box.

Assuming the ESC, RX and Motor were NOT in the car, I can conclude that the car would be balanced damn near perfect 50/50 Left and Right. But the motor sticks out farther than a brushed....is heavier and the ESC is heavier and takes up more room in the chassis.

So.....I took the car into the shop where we have a digital scale...me and a friend jimmy rigged a scale setup where we had one tire on the scale and 3 on the same plane up on blocks.

The ESC side is almost 2.5 oz heavier than the RX side!

So I took ALL the lead pieces out of the ESC side of the car and it helped a little but still wasn't pulling the car more to the RX side like I wanted...

Next we took a 6Cell and brushed B4 and it was only 1oz+/-.1 off on either side.

Next we took a Lipo and BL B4 that weighed 59oz! and had ALL of it's weight taped to the battery trap AND flat on the floor of the battery box. His car was .7oz on either side difference.

This makes me wonder if you were to have all the weight in a center line down the center of the chassis, it should warrent you a more aligned car from a weight distribution Left Right standpoint.

My project for this week....get the car within 1 oz or less Left to Right.





Thoughts?
mafiaracers is offline  
Old 12-15-2007, 08:14 AM
  #3561  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: All 48 states...
Posts: 2,053
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Your assumption is right I have a friend here that made us a 5 oz plate that fits in the battery slot under the battery and it was much easier to balance the car. Granted we also run 4800 lipos....
Gitsum is offline  
Old 12-15-2007, 08:33 AM
  #3562  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
mafiaracers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 3,759
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

I think that because I run a 4000mah lipo pack that the weight in the center of the chassis is SO little, that by putting the weights to the outside of the battery box only exaggerates the offset.

I'm going to see what I can make at work today...I have some pretty dense plastics that I can cut a groove in to fit the lead weights nicely down the center of the battery box....or even off to one side....maybe I'll make a few of these inserts with the groove in different places to move the weight from the left to the right in side the battery box.

I do think it needs to be more centralized though
mafiaracers is offline  
Old 12-15-2007, 04:08 PM
  #3563  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
JeromeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,691
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

I have my weight under the battery, and I run the 4800. My balance seems alright when I check the ride height but Ive never done it on scales.
JeromeB is offline  
Old 12-15-2007, 06:56 PM
  #3564  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
mafiaracers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 3,759
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Scales will blow your mind if you really take the time to check out the L/R differences of your car...too bad even a POS digital scale starts around $30! I realize $60 bucks isn't that much...but I feel like I could spend that money on tires...oh well, i'll probably buy 2 scales tomorrow and get the car dialed in.
mafiaracers is offline  
Old 12-15-2007, 11:57 PM
  #3565  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,233
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

I have a question for those who are using the T3 slipper spring and nut ([FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']ASC6587 ) Are you using a black spacer between the splipper disc and the spring or does the spring rest on the pate? Reason I ask is that it seems I have to lock my T4 spring down, but on my B4 I have a black spacer and Im not sure why. I would assume this works better since I wont lock the spring down as fast.[/FONT]
K_King is offline  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:50 AM
  #3566  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
JeromeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,691
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mafiaracers View Post
Scales will blow your mind if you really take the time to check out the L/R differences of your car...too bad even a POS digital scale starts around $30! I realize $60 bucks isn't that much...but I feel like I could spend that money on tires...oh well, i'll probably buy 2 scales tomorrow and get the car dialed in.

Yeah scales are really pricey. I have 1x 2000g scale but thats for overall weight and I got that when I ordered my lipo's because I knew I needed it.
JeromeB is offline  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:58 PM
  #3567  
Tech Addict
 
speedsterblade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: TN
Posts: 690
Default

I just did my first race w/ the lipo in the B4...track was redone so it was little loose, normally nice and packed. Personally I don't see the need to match up the weight difference from the nimh 4200s (450g) with the orion 3200 lipos (200g). All I did was go to softer springs/oil in the rear. I have been running heavier than stock alum. pieces for weight increase over stock parts...Even with the 4200 setup...it was planted. Alum. Front bulkhead & front pin holder w/ 1/4 oz lead hidden under it (weights the same as the stock bulkhead w/ 1/2 oz lead), Rear alum motor guard (1/4oz heavier than stock) and alum Tplate (little more than 1/4oz over stock)...that puts some weight low and over the wheels. I also had 1/2 of lead in front of the tranny (on 4200 setup also). for the lipo I did add lead to the bottom of the shock tower after each heat in the little triangle right above were the battery strap touches. Started w/ 1/2oz, helped but track was wet and slick. I ground down another 1/2 piece to fit in the rest of the triangle, probably closer to a 1/4oz after grinding. That really gave me alot of traction and still have the overall weight much ligther and a car that accerates and jumps so much better than my old 4200s setup. It's more sensitive than the heavy/planted setup of the 4200s but the speed and extra jumping ease is the benifit....I just have to be a little smoother on the gas but it's so much faster then the 4200 setup it's well worth it..

So I'm wonder what is the benifit of running lipo then weighing it down with so much lead/matching the weight of your old setup? I say try it light then add weight over the wheels instead of stuffing the battery trayup w/ lead. I think you're better off adding the additional weight over the wheels as much as you can.

left/right balance... I just added weight around my reciever, opposite of the gtb. 3/4 oz is about what it took for mine....
speedsterblade is offline  
Old 12-16-2007, 03:25 PM
  #3568  
Tech Initiate
 
Kyle_Rcn3rd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 28
Thumbs up

i love the b4 i started three months ago and won a trophy for western worlds
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-103_0035.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-my-rc.jpg  
Kyle_Rcn3rd is offline  
Old 12-16-2007, 03:51 PM
  #3569  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
JeromeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,691
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post

So I'm wonder what is the benifit of running lipo then weighing it down with so much lead/matching the weight of your old setup? I say try it light then add weight over the wheels instead of stuffing the battery trayup w/ lead. I think you're better off adding the additional weight over the wheels as much as you can.
I added weight so I could still run my old setup which was still dialed. And I still have HEAPS more punch and get about 20 full minutes in brushless stock of full performance out of the pack (30-40min til cut off). I also have to do no battery maintenence, can live off 1 pack, and charge it 2 weeks before the next race meet.
JeromeB is offline  
Old 12-16-2007, 09:50 PM
  #3570  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Crashtest1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NoRtHwEsT
Posts: 554
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

The weighing and balancing of each side is frivelous. If there were that much of a difference then you would notice the difference in push from left to right. AE designed this car on a computer and knew where the speedo and reciever (hence the permanent antenna mount) would go. If they really wanted to they could have shifted the battery slightly right or left on the CAD to balance it out. They didn't and I know my ride is consistent left to right. Go get some tires or a used transponder, that would be a better trade-off more practice time or maintenance time rather buying a set of scales, mafia.


The advantage of weight in lipos is that you can take the savings and shift it lower to the cg. The power of lipos is like a nimh at its peak but all the time. It's very consistent and u can get better tuning turnaround. There is no maintenance. An easy partial charge method for storage. Nimh when properly maintained should ideally be raced once daily. Lipo likes it when you don't drain it down all the way to cut off and can be charged infinite times a day. The run times are probably the best deciding factor seeing as to how my 3200 lipos will run two races longer than its equivelant. There is absolutely nothing wrong with nimh but if you are newly getting into the game it is best to spend the extra $20. There are also some who just want to simply upgrade and then never look back. There is a reason for that.
Crashtest1 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.