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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 11-28-2007, 09:51 PM
  #3361  
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Bolt nut has wings so it can`t spin ......

Screw can spin ...

Thus the factory recommendation ?


If you get my point....
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:26 PM
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Adam--Have you ever put the diff the way the manual shows?

Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
You know, I've always put the diff in with the screw facing away from the spur gear side and I've never had it back off. This is going back to when the RC10T was introduced...I think you'll be fine running it 'backwards'.
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:21 PM
  #3363  
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I run mine on the spur gear side and it is perfect and competitive. I asked the local pro and he said it doesn't matter. I put it on the spur gear side so I could take my angled hex head, pop the ti-buckle easily and tighten or loosen the diff with the wheels on. Get it down right and you can dial a diff like 10 times in less than a minute. You could do the same on the other side but you are gonna fish through three brushless wires and sensor wires which takes longer... short answer, I run the diff "backwards." Backwards=ok


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Old 11-29-2007, 12:27 AM
  #3364  
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Hey Crash, that would be the normal way of putting the diff in. The adjusting screw on the spur gear side is normal. When the screw is on the motor side it is backwards. Not like it matters too much, since the diff works fine either way. Am I wrong, thinking the diff screw on the spur gear side is normal?
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Hey Crash, that would be the normal way of putting the diff in. The adjusting screw on the spur gear side is normal. When the screw is on the motor side it is backwards. Not like it matters too much, since the diff works fine either way. Am I wrong, thinking the diff screw on the spur gear side is normal?
You are correct.
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Old 11-29-2007, 12:53 PM
  #3366  
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What is the minimum weight allowed?

I'm new to this. I built a FT B4 with a Novak 5.5 brushless with a SMC 5000mah lipo. I was told after being weighed to add 3oz to it to make it legal. I added 3oz and with a handout transponder I then weighed 54.9 I think. I am putting a personal transponder in this week and removed .25oz weight. Did I go to far? Does anyone also know the weight difference between a personal and handout transponder?

I added 1.5oz to the top of the servo and another 1.25oz to the top of the battery tray near the front.

Last week my car was pretty good after I loosened the slipper way up so I could drive it. I was way over powered (of course) and it was doing backflips and wheelies untill I loosened the slipper and dailed back the epa. I added weight to the front to hopefully stop it from trying to wheely. I would like to tighten the slipper and turn the power back up. I was getting smoked out of the hole.
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Old 11-29-2007, 12:55 PM
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Also am I right to assume I would want to be as light as possible. Traction isnt an issue because its a smooth high traction indoor clay track. We use slicks and traction compound.
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:01 PM
  #3368  
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Originally Posted by PTP Racing View Post
What is the minimum weight allowed?

I'm new to this. I built a FT B4 with a Novak 5.5 brushless with a SMC 5000mah lipo. I was told after being weighed to add 3oz to it to make it legal. I added 3oz and with a handout transponder I then weighed 54.9 I think. I am putting a personal transponder in this week and removed .25oz weight. Did I go to far? Does anyone also know the weight difference between a personal and handout transponder?

I added 1.5oz to the top of the servo and another 1.25oz to the top of the battery tray near the front.

Last week my car was pretty good after I loosened the slipper way up so I could drive it. I was way over powered (of course) and it was doing backflips and wheelies untill I loosened the slipper and dailed back the epa. I added weight to the front to hopefully stop it from trying to wheely. I would like to tighten the slipper and turn the power back up. I was getting smoked out of the hole.
A lighter car will have a lot more forward bite and thats why you are experiencing the wheelies.....




Ways to fix....


add even more weight , not just on the ft....


or

switch to a lighter rear spring

lower your ride height

and adjust the slipper ....

Ps
A common perception is lighter is faster ....

It is`nt .....


Hope this helps you...
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:18 PM
  #3369  
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Originally Posted by brad996 View Post
you may want to check and see if you have the diff in the right way the screw should be on the spur gear side if you have you have it in on tje wrong side it can come loose

and have you changed anything else like speed control or your radio
Brad the dif screw is on the right side and my radio settings are the same, I had changed from a XR3i to a XS3 pro but matched them up so settings are all the same.

Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
too much camber can cause the axles to rub the arms also...forgot to mention that part. You could have this spin problem if your camber if not even on bothsides... One tire is getting more traction...but you may not notice this until you get into some loose stuff. Check your camber links for bends or bent ball cups. I think I'm running 1-1.5 degress of camber now...not sure I kinda retired the truck and just running buggy on the dirt and TC on the rug. ..my TC4 needed some hobby love, so I raped the brushless out of the truck.


I've had your problem w/ my truck but my problem was my line/the track. the turn coming onto our big straight has some loose dirt and sometimes on the gas one tire would spin up and throw/spin me straight into the wall... my fix was getting my camber evend and just a better line or better throttle control when I did run wide....

Have you taken the pinion off and ensured that everything is free rolling while moving the rear arms (from full cpmpressed to normal ride height to fully extended)? nothing should be draggin/rubbin.
My camber is the same on both ends and there is no rubbing, also checked the CVDs and they are fine, replaced the rear hub bearings but the truck is still pulling to the left at throttle. My front wheels are both lined up perfectly with the same camber and castor angle. This is getting frustrating as I can't keep the truck from spinning out. Nothing rubs froms the arms/cvds and shocks so I am at a loss except to rebuild the diff and see if that does anything.
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:52 PM
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I got the slipper to the point now where anyone could handle it. It will not wheely at all. But because of this I was slow accelerating compared to others so I know it was too loose.

Last night I switched the weight around adding an additional .75 on top of the servo from on top of the battery hold down. Then I put some cushioning around the battery and tightened the slipper a hair. I am also going to dail my throttle epa back to 100%. Then I want to tighten the slipper more untill it almost pulls wheelies but doesnt.

I also mounted up some new tires in a harder compound with firm inserts. From what Ive heard this is the hot tire set-up at ouor local track. Hopefully I will do a little better than last week. Although I cant complain too much about 7th in the A main my first weekend out. Ive done nothing besides 1/8th buggy and truggy for the last 3 years.
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Old 11-29-2007, 03:54 PM
  #3371  
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Originally Posted by gene465 View Post
Brad the dif screw is on the right side and my radio settings are the same, I had changed from a XR3i to a XS3 pro but matched them up so settings are all the same.



My camber is the same on both ends and there is no rubbing, also checked the CVDs and they are fine, replaced the rear hub bearings but the truck is still pulling to the left at throttle. My front wheels are both lined up perfectly with the same camber and castor angle. This is getting frustrating as I can't keep the truck from spinning out. Nothing rubs froms the arms/cvds and shocks so I am at a loss except to rebuild the diff and see if that does anything.

Let me back up... How are your tires?

Does it spin the same direction everytime? Can you make it spin anywhere?..to rule out the track or loose areas of the track?

Front wheel bearings ok, I'm guessing?..that's pretty easy to see.

I'm guessing you've checked these things on the rear also? Shocks ok and working evenly? they mounted the same left/right? Same pistion/oil/limiters, etc? Wheelbase/shims on the hubs the same on both sides?

If all that is good, I'd guess go back to the diff... Try this, hold the truck and one of the rear tires...gas it...repeat on the other tire.. they resistance should be about the same for both tires... if not it's gotta be the diff or the bearings the diff rides on...assuming the hub bearings are ok.

hope that helps.
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Old 11-29-2007, 04:14 PM
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Thanks Speedy, Yeah I have switched tires out with no change of results, Everything on the shocks is the same and they have the same resistance etc, rear hub and front bearings are fine switched them all out, I can make it spin out on any surface has the same results. Will try holding one at a time and see what I come up with. If not then I will have to tear down the tranny and rebuild diff and check out the bearings inside. Gene
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Old 11-29-2007, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Adam--Have you ever put the diff the way the manual shows?
Yeah, I've run it both ways and NEVER had a diff loosen off on me.
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Old 11-29-2007, 06:10 PM
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Wild Cherry, something to think about, both A/E and TeamLosi use lock tabs on their diff nuts. But team Associated recommends the diff bolt head on the right, under the spur, TeamLosi recommends the diff bolt head on the left opposite the spur.

The tabs are in place for assembly and maintenance, since a nut small enough to allow a tool into the outdrive to hold it, would not last long, as proven in the past with older designs that had no lock tabs and smaller diff nuts.

Once tightened the diff won't allow the nut to turn wether the tabs are in place or not, since the thrust bearing turns seperately from the opposite diff half, much easier then the 90lbs+ of force (on the bolt and nut) in most diffs today!



...Jim
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Old 11-29-2007, 09:04 PM
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[QUOTE=PTP Racing;3920117]I got the slipper to the point now where anyone could handle it. It will not wheely at all. But because of this I was slow accelerating compared to others so I know it was too loose.

Last night I ...QUOTE]


Might help a little, my methods of Slipper adjustment,

I was taught by a pro to turn the car and radio on. Hold the rear tires and goose it, try to get the car to do a 1 inch wheelie... any higher= loosen, no wheelie=tighten. Then more advice was given by others to tune the slipper to accurately downside the largest jump in your perfect line with perfect momentum.

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