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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 11-21-2007, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake S View Post
Awesome, Ive got the 4800's but Im using a Pulsar 3, I have an IMax B5 to balance them and do my tx packs.
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Old 11-22-2007, 05:56 AM
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Hopefully someone can help me out. Does anyone know if a rc10 t4 body will fit an rc10t truck?
Thanks
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:48 PM
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ive got an old t3 body on my rc10t , and i know the t4 will fit with the rpm adjustable body mounts , still available , ive got a new unpainted rc10t body but i just cant paint it , its the only rc10t part that you just cant find , for under 60 bucks , ray
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Old 11-25-2007, 12:34 PM
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Default T4 spnning out

Heya all have a quick little problem with my T-4 wondering if anyone ever had the same problem and what was the cause. I was racing my T-4 and I kept spinning out. I thought that maybe I was giving it too much throttle and was not getting any traction. When I took off the rear wheels after the heat I discovered that one of the rear wheels was not lined up properly and wound up getting stripped out. Thinking this was the problem I replaced the rear wheels. Well as soon as I put some throttle on sure enough the same thing. So it was not the tires at all since I was running what everyone else was. Checked my diff and it seemed fine. smooth working like should. My best guess is that the problem is still with the diff, maybe too loose? I tried to dial down both steering and throttle expodential did not seem to make much of a difference. The truck seemed to run fine on the straights but had problems going in and out of a sharp turn. Maybe I am being a noob but I don't think it is my driving as the last time I had the truck out at the track it worked fine. Anyone with more experience with the T-4/B-4 have this problem? Thanks Gene
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:54 PM
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actualy sounds like it might be an axel-pin.? Take both of your rear wheels off and look at the pins that go through the axel's. My quick guess is that you may have broken one of those. They look like this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2866&P=7
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:02 PM
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Red bull, both axel pins are fine both are straight and the washers under them are flat. I am probably going to take look more closely at the diff when I get off work and have a few minute. Problem has to be in the diff. One side spinning more than the other. Anyone else have any ideas? Thanks Gene
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Old 11-25-2007, 05:45 PM
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First week out with my B4 and I broke two ball cups. Do you guys have trouble with the stock cups and if so should I put on Losi or MIP cups. Thanks
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Old 11-25-2007, 06:19 PM
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Bman, I usually use the rpm ball cups when I build a kit, otherwise the stock are usually fine for a while they just tend to bend. I just replace them as they get bent, once I get two or three then I wind up replacing them all. Don't think I ever had an issue with the RPM cups except when I got some rub from a touring car.
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bmanracing View Post
First week out with my B4 and I broke two ball cups. Do you guys have trouble with the stock cups and if so should I put on Losi or MIP cups. Thanks
Ive replaced mine all with RPM ones. My friend breaks atleast 2 stock ballcups each meat, I havnt broken 1 RPM one yet. Even still the stock ones tend to bend rather than snap.
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gene465 View Post
Heya all have a quick little problem with my T-4 wondering if anyone ever had the same problem and what was the cause. I was racing my T-4 and I kept spinning out. I thought that maybe I was giving it too much throttle and was not getting any traction. When I took off the rear wheels after the heat I discovered that one of the rear wheels was not lined up properly and wound up getting stripped out. Thinking this was the problem I replaced the rear wheels. Well as soon as I put some throttle on sure enough the same thing. So it was not the tires at all since I was running what everyone else was. Checked my diff and it seemed fine. smooth working like should. My best guess is that the problem is still with the diff, maybe too loose? I tried to dial down both steering and throttle expodential did not seem to make much of a difference. The truck seemed to run fine on the straights but had problems going in and out of a sharp turn. Maybe I am being a noob but I don't think it is my driving as the last time I had the truck out at the track it worked fine. Anyone with more experience with the T-4/B-4 have this problem? Thanks Gene
My suggested check points:

1. Rear axle bearings
2. Slipper setting (loosen a little?)

Last edited by jobo_ph; 11-25-2007 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:28 PM
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heyas,

i need a new set of wheel bearings....i went 2 my awesome LHS yestaday and askd for the bearings (3/16x3/8) and he gave me the associated ones...and said they were bloody xpensiv....40 buxs (aus dollars)....and that i should wait till nnext w/e for the Duratrax ones for 20 buxs...

y are the associated ones soo expensive....they cant be that great since i have had ppl say go the Duratrax ones...

cheers

wog
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:34 PM
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My Lipo packs are here so I have been doing alittle figuring on how to add the 140grams (5oz) needed to bring a lipo pack up to 4200 weight (both my truck and buggy are dialed at the local track).....

----------------------------

How much do the LiPo’s weigh compared to normal Ni-MH batteries?
The Team Orion 4800 Li-Po pack weighs 258g, versus 401 g for NiMH 7.2 volt assembled cells.

Mass = 140g (5oz)
Density = 8 g/cc (Stainless Steel 301)
Volume (Area*Height) = 17.5 CC (64.625cm[area]*.270cm)

D=M/V

Dimensions 4800mAh:
Length - 13.75cm (5.41in)
Width - 4.7cm (1.85in)

Height of Plate - .270cm (.106in)
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:47 PM
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Hi Jake,

Ive done my lipo to an IB3800 because thats what I used to run. My lead flashing peice is 100g which is the difference, its the perfect width but its 2 or 3cm short. I put it in the middle with 1.5cm each length to the end of the tray and I had understeer, so I pushed it all the way forward, and its perfect. My car has been better then ever.
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Old 11-26-2007, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jobo_ph View Post
My suggested check points:

1. Rear axle bearings
2. Slipper setting (loosen a little?)
I took the Rear apart bearings are good, Diffs were way loose had to tighten them up quite a bit, will run that see if that cleared it up if not I will check the slipper. Thanks Jobo.
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Old 11-26-2007, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by JeromeB View Post
Hi Jake,

Ive done my lipo to an IB3800 because thats what I used to run. My lead flashing peice is 100g which is the difference, its the perfect width but its 2 or 3cm short. I put it in the middle with 1.5cm each length to the end of the tray and I had understeer, so I pushed it all the way forward, and its perfect. My car has been better then ever.
not to sound like a sarcastic tony the tiger, but THATS GRRREEEAAATTT.
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