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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 11-01-2007, 01:07 AM
  #3136  
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i balanced my first two sets of tires (t4 and b4) using the Chad Bradley method

old axle - used aluminum front axle, since i dislike the screw and a steering block

rear used an old cvd axle and rear hub

made my cars drive alot smoother, even just in the parking lot for the 30-35 seconds i felt like running my tires on pavement

atleast its for indoors, so its that much closer to slicks - which was only like 2-3%, but yeah hah

the most important thing chad said was to remove the bearing seals and oil for the best feel.

spun the tires 2-3 times adding 1-3 weights - which i used magnetic tape i got from walmart for $3 since they didn't seem to have any lead gold tape

it actually seemed to work very well.

can't wait to see the results on the track - first race for winter indoor is nov. 10.

b4 13.5ss 81/24 t4 13.5ss 87/22

HOPING FOR MY WED BODIES TOMORROW, ILL TAKE PICTURES -dang guess im going to have to update my avatar.
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by tripthreat View Post
Even if 2's with 40 'feels' like 3's with 35, it will be different on the track. A different piston will give the stock a different pack. 3's have smaller holes than 2's and will have MORE pack. It will make the front end feel more progressive.

Hope that makes sense

So, changed to #3 pistons lastnight how it felt, was if I went up 10wt oil in front. So I went from gold to blue springs, and now its very picky about where the shock itself is mounted. Like in every shock position but one it felt like crap, but the one is awsome! Fastest lap improved from 14.9 to 14.373! thanks for your help everybody!
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tripthreat View Post
I would just put the standard 1.5 oz in the rear, and none in the front. Then put in the LIPO pack with 1 pad in front, 2 in the rear. Also, add lead to match the difference between a LIPO and NiMH on top of the battery bar right above where the battery lies.
That's the first thing I tried. I stuck about 1 oz in the rear and stuck 3 oz evenly on top of the battery hold down to closely match the weight of a NiMH pack. It pushed on and off-power and the rear didn't have bite. So, I went with the above weight and the rear is hooked up now, but the front still seems to push. I guess I'll have to copy the RTR RS setup up front and see where it goes from there. I'll even try a NiMH to see if that's a big factor.
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:26 AM
  #3139  
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Jake S, I have heard that modeling putty/clay works very well too. Another method is to tape solder in place until you get the weight you want and then CA glue it in place when you've got it where you want it.

I was surprised about the clay, I figured it would come off but the guys I have seen do it have not reported any problems.
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:39 AM
  #3140  
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Originally Posted by James Y View Post
That's the first thing I tried. I stuck about 1 oz in the rear and stuck 3 oz evenly on top of the battery hold down to closely match the weight of a NiMH pack. It pushed on and off-power and the rear didn't have bite. So, I went with the above weight and the rear is hooked up now, but the front still seems to push. I guess I'll have to copy the RTR RS setup up front and see where it goes from there. I'll even try a NiMH to see if that's a big factor.

This works , weights the same as if I had a 3300 Gp pack....

More weight = more traction & less steering

Less weight = less traction & more steering

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-31-2008 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 11-01-2007, 11:33 AM
  #3141  
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Originally Posted by James Y View Post
That's the first thing I tried. I stuck about 1 oz in the rear and stuck 3 oz evenly on top of the battery hold down to closely match the weight of a NiMH pack. It pushed on and off-power and the rear didn't have bite. So, I went with the above weight and the rear is hooked up now, but the front still seems to push. I guess I'll have to copy the RTR RS setup up front and see where it goes from there. I'll even try a NiMH to see if that's a big factor.
If you push, even through all of those changes, I am not sure what is going on. If you post your setup, that may help. I usually find if I 'push everywhere', it can be the front tires. What is your home track, what is it like, and what tires are you running?

Originally Posted by RedBull_81 View Post
So, changed to #3 pistons lastnight how it felt, was if I went up 10wt oil in front. So I went from gold to blue springs, and now its very picky about where the shock itself is mounted. Like in every shock position but one it felt like crap, but the one is awsome! Fastest lap improved from 14.9 to 14.373! thanks for your help everybody!
When you change piston, you need to change oil too.... so that the truck 'feels' the same on the table with the same spring/shock mounting location. The shock mounting location, spring, oil, piston all work together. Sometimes if you change one, you need to alter another. It is the combo of all 3 that will make the truck 'dialed'. With that said, the rear has to be right too..

The stardard med-high bite front end setup, is:
35wt, #3 pistons, 6 limiters (.180"), Gold Spring, mounted middle on the tower, and INSIDE on the arm.

Is that what you are running?
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Old 11-01-2007, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tripthreat View Post
If you push, even through all of those changes, I am not sure what is going on. If you post your setup, that may help. I usually find if I 'push everywhere', it can be the front tires. What is your home track, what is it like, and what tires are you running?



When you change piston, you need to change oil too.... so that the truck 'feels' the same on the table with the same spring/shock mounting location. The shock mounting location, spring, oil, piston all work together. Sometimes if you change one, you need to alter another. It is the combo of all 3 that will make the truck 'dialed'. With that said, the rear has to be right too..

The stardard med-high bite front end setup, is:
35wt, #3 pistons, 6 limiters (.180"), Gold Spring, mounted middle on the tower, and INSIDE on the arm.

Is that what you are running?
Mine is 30wt, #3pistons, 3 limiters, blue springs, middle on tower, & outside on arm.
I wouldn't want to go to 35wt it already slightly lacks lowspeed steering, I actualy thought about using 25wt. When I put the number 3's on I left the gold springs like I had before, and it made it push like a beast so I had to go slightly softer with the blues.
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Old 11-01-2007, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBull_81 View Post
When I put the number 3's on I left the gold springs like I had before, and it made it push like a beast so I had to go slightly softer with the blues.
i have more then enough steering with my #2 piston with gold springs 35 wt middle-inside
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Old 11-01-2007, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBull_81 View Post
Mine is 30wt, #3pistons, 3 limiters, blue springs, middle on tower, & outside on arm.
I wouldn't want to go to 35wt it already slightly lacks lowspeed steering, I actualy thought about using 25wt. When I put the number 3's on I left the gold springs like I had before, and it made it push like a beast so I had to go slightly softer with the blues.


Mounting on the arm is HUGE. When you are further out, it makes everything 'feel' stiffer. That is why you are running softer oil and spring than most. I would try the 'whole front shock' setup. Then the 35wt and golds won't feel as stiff. This is the setup, that 95% of the team guys run 95% of the time, it works REALLY good.

Also, when it comes to suspension, softer doesn't always mean more traction. Sometime a softer front end will push more in parts of the turn. If you can be slightly more specific about the push.. ie initial, middle, exit, middle-exit... ect. then we can cut to a solution quicker
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Old 11-02-2007, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by tripthreat View Post
Mounting on the arm is HUGE. When you are further out, it makes everything 'feel' stiffer. That is why you are running softer oil and spring than most. I would try the 'whole front shock' setup. Then the 35wt and golds won't feel as stiff. This is the setup, that 95% of the team guys run 95% of the time, it works REALLY good.

Also, when it comes to suspension, softer doesn't always mean more traction. Sometime a softer front end will push more in parts of the turn. If you can be slightly more specific about the push.. ie initial, middle, exit, middle-exit... ect. then we can cut to a solution quicker
First off I'd like to say thanks for all ur help! this is what we run on, its rolled roofing, basicly a big flat smooth continuous roll of shingles (http://www.eriercraceway.com) check here if you'd like to see pics. track is very hard and high bite. After the #3's it has a slight low speed push, high speed steering is good though. So good that in the high speed turns, sometimes it will make the backend kick loose. So if theres a way to slightly plant the backend more, and dial out the low speed push the setup would be amazing.
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Old 11-02-2007, 08:20 AM
  #3146  
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where is your turnbuckles mounted? when i had a low speed push on my t4 i went from 2b (outside on tower, outside on caster block) to 1a (inside-inside) and it really helped that for me, and also seemed to add alittle high speed steering....

about planting the rear, are you running the 1 & 1/2 oz of weight in the rear? my truck felt very loose at oakhill this summer till i did that, then the rear end was planted (which gave the feeling to me of slightly less entry steering, but alot of steering in the middle of the corner - seemed very wrong to me thinking physics)

agreeing with paul on this also....the gold spring seemed to add more steering....but to me it felt like alot more low-speed steering (not sure if thats where he meant it was though) and it felt about the same as blue front springs at high speed
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Old 11-02-2007, 09:42 AM
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Stiffer spring on ft will lose low speed steering & gain high speed ..
Thing is, as you go stiffer the more twitchy the car will become &
softer springs smooth out the steering....
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:25 AM
  #3148  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Stiffer spring on ft will lose low speed steering & gain high speed ..
Thing is, as you go stiffer the more twitchy the car will become &
softer springs smooth out the steering....
which is why i said it felt wrong logically, gosh....

just saying how it felt, not what it should do, it may be because it was "twitcher" which caused me to be able to drive it harder...longer...or something.
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBull_81 View Post
First off I'd like to say thanks for all ur help! this is what we run on, its rolled roofing, basicly a big flat smooth continuous roll of shingles (http://www.eriercraceway.com) check here if you'd like to see pics. track is very hard and high bite. After the #3's it has a slight low speed push, high speed steering is good though. So good that in the high speed turns, sometimes it will make the backend kick loose. So if theres a way to slightly plant the backend more, and dial out the low speed push the setup would be amazing.
What tires and foam do you run, front/rear?
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake S View Post
which is why i said it felt wrong logically, gosh....

just saying how it felt, not what it should do, it may be because it was "twitcher" which caused me to be able to drive it harder...longer...or something.
On big outdoor layouts you don`t need as much low speed steering....
so
blue or gold would be a good choice...

On smaller indoor layouts , silver or green would be preferred....


There is no one spring that works best , you have to decide when & where to use the correct spring.....
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