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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 10-09-2007, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by simonb View Post
Does anyone know what effect running the optional .5 degree rear hub carriers has on the B4 - does it increase traction, cornering, etc.
adding rear toe-in gives more rear traction but decreases corning speed. these rear hub carriers add rear toe-in because the stock carriers are 0-deg.

Originally Posted by kdub View Post
Once you go up to a sintered rotor you gain a lot of torque and you can get up closer to 19-87 in truck with a 6.5. For the 7.5 sintered in buggy I would run 24-81.
looking through your ae boys setups for brushless (Maifield mostly) im seeing 87/18 in the truck for a 6.5 sintered (as about what your saying)

also reading through the posts, and looking at gearing guides looks about like 81/22 for a 7.5 sintered in the buggy, it might be able to pull 84/24 though.

THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTIONS AND INCITE COACH!
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Old 10-09-2007, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88 View Post
Does anyone have pics of that trinity killerB body for the b4 painted?
yeah me and my dad bought one each,they arent very thick and snapped pretty easily,like no flex but they just cracked and snapped

they do look pretty nice though and the wings that come with them are also very nice
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Old 10-09-2007, 01:43 AM
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[QUOTE=Jake S;3747123]adding rear toe-in gives more rear traction but decreases corning speed. these rear hub carriers add rear toe-in because the stock carriers are 0-deg.

Thanks Jake - wasn't sure what the .5 referred to. They seem pretty hard to get a hold of.
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:14 AM
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If you use the .5 blocks rather than a different rear plate you will also keep a slightly longer wheel base. More of a fine tuning option in my opinion. I played with stuff like this on my TC for awhile and found them to be useful depending on the track. If you have too much rear traction with a short wheel base and not enough with the long wheel base, try them.
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Old 10-09-2007, 07:20 AM
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Default 6.5?

Originally Posted by kdub View Post
If you're talking about the LRP 6.5 turn, I run it 16-87 in truck with the std rotor. In the B4 I use 7.5 with 20-84.

Once you go up to a sintered rotor you gain a lot of torque and you can get up closer to 19-87 in truck with a 6.5. For the 7.5 sintered in buggy I would run 24-81.

I don't know much about the Novak stuff on how to gear it....
How bout the LRP 6.5 in a B4? What are your thoughts? I'm running 84/19 i think at the moment. I don't have the sintered rotor yet, although it is on my list of purchases.
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
If you use the .5 blocks rather than a different rear plate you will also keep a slightly longer wheel base.
there are not different rear plates to adjust this setting at all for the b4/t4, you might be thinking your in the xxx/xxxt thread. and yes if you add the .5 rear HUBS it will rotate the tires, and you might want to move the hubs backwards to try and gain that "balance" again, but my suggestion is just not to get the .5 hubs, there is a reason all 2wd offroad cars come with 3-deg rear toe-in, and my guess is that its whats best in the dirt.

Originally Posted by zardoz View Post
How bout the LRP 6.5 in a B4? What are your thoughts? I'm running 84/19 i think at the moment. I don't have the sintered rotor yet, although it is on my list of purchases.
from what i hear you can go up 3 teeth when you add a sintered rotor in the buggy. so 84/21 in the 6.5 with sintered may be a good start.
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Old 10-09-2007, 12:00 PM
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I started running offroad again after a couple of years off. I have an original B4. I see in the setup sheets that on the rear. They say # of shims w/ new brace. What is the difference from 2004 to now?
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Old 10-09-2007, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SRW141 View Post
I started running offroad again after a couple of years off. I have an original B4. I see in the setup sheets that on the rear. They say # of shims w/ new brace. What is the difference from 2004 to now?
the updated u-brace is just thicker where the ballstuds go in, so you don't need to use three spacers to get the "desired" turnbuckle angle.
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Old 10-09-2007, 12:06 PM
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I run the RE 1.5 hubs on both b4 & my t4... helps the car square up much better on the power.
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Old 10-09-2007, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake S View Post
the updated u-brace is just thicker where the ballstuds go in, so you don't need to use three spacers to get the "desired" turnbuckle angle.
Thanks Jake.
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
I run the RE 1.5 hubs on both b4 & my t4... helps the car square up much better on the power.
http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/9584.htm (t4/b4 0-deg hubs - 3deg toe-in)

http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/7932.htm (gt2 1.5-deg hubs - 6-deg toe-in or 0-deg toe)

don't understand how these 1.5-deg hubs will help the car, while it will increase cornering speed on principal, you wont have enough steering on turn-in to use it.
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:44 PM
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From my experance it will make the car square up quicker for jumps and track strighter down the stright. I will also take away some stearing from the car.
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:56 PM
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More rear toe will give the car a lot of on power grip. You'll be pulling wheelies if the track can handle it.
Overall however, it will make the car less stable. Any surface irregularities the car tracks through will be exagerrated(sp).
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Old 10-10-2007, 03:17 PM
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personally i run maifield's setups from the 07 cactus on both my b4 and t4 and i love how my car/truck drives.
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Old 10-11-2007, 12:10 PM
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Well going through my setup, its very close to many of the pro-level drivers....with a few tweaks to suite my driving.
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-jakes_buggy_standard.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-jakes_truck_standard.jpg  
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