speedsterblade

I run med bit hard packed indoor track....not high grade clay. It blu grooves but get dusty inbetween watering. For the B4, I like the side bit of the PL inside jobs (front and rear) over the hole shoots. Of Ribbed fronts I like the PL wide M3s the best..softer than the losi ribbs. The panther switch 2.0 are good but a taller tire than the PLs. To me equals about a +1 on the pinion just by changing tires. they have alot of forward bite blocks on the center, good forward traction.

T4 I just run the edges up front, holeshots on the rear.

typicall any soft small pin tire is good, you just have to try them out.

POUNDITRACING

iTrader: (10)

on the buggy you can't go wrong with a hole shot. I would use 8175-02 proline fronts. I think that they are wides. I know the # for sure.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

If you can find a good pair, Pro-Line Evil Twin's work excellent for indoor clay tracks that prefer fuzzies on trucks. Those were the weapon of choice for my local track. I wonder why Pro-Line stopped making them...oh right, because they're idiots. "Now Discontinued, Pro-Line's most successful indoor truck tire ever! Just Released, the Bunker Jumper! L00k it$ @ g()|ff [art LOLZ!"

killer89

iTrader: (41)

Ray, the 8175s are the narrows. 8176 is wide.

POUNDITRACING

iTrader: (10)

thats right. Thanks.

POUNDITRACING

iTrader: (10)

why did they stop production. The only prolbem I had was that they were 1 run for my track. I still ran them.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

Search me, like I said practically everybody was running them. I saw them appear in a bunch of big show results on indoor clay tracks. They were the most badass fuzzy tire out there, and they canned 'em & started making crap like spinner wheels & bodies shaped like ATVs and golf carts & trailer hitch receiver covers & crappy diecast Hummer H2s. Same went for the steering bellcrank kit for T- and E-Maxxes, I'd give my left nut to get rid of those weak collar-type servo savers and put a regular 2 piece V-groove steering rack in my truck, but they dropped those too. They're dropping all their good race stuff left and right and replacing it with all yuppie backyard basher junk.

And 1 run? Holy smokes dude, did they make your track out of sandpaper or something?

POUNDITRACING

iTrader: (10)

Ya it was kind of dusty but I was trying to keep up with Pudge.

air8

iTrader: (7)

I'm checking out the trailing and inline steering blocks. What is this all about? Do these move the axle forward and back, or something else? I was looking at setup sheets and noticed this as an option, so now I'm confused. LOL.

Or how about a different question. Where is a good place to read about chassis and suspension adjustments? Plus what are the effects of making the changes? Thanx people.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

1st part: Bone-stock the T4 and B4 come with trailing axle front spindles, meaning the actual axle is behind the kingpin. So the tire doesn't just rotate when it steers, it swings side to side a little bit too. When you get the inline setup, the kingpin actually goes through the axle stub, so now the tire steers perfectly on its axis. When you go from trailing to inline, you're supposed to take that thick spacer on the lower hinge pin and move it from behind the upright to the front, so the wheelbase doesn't change, just the steering geometry (the wheel rubs on the arm something awful if you don't switch that spacer around). Supposedly it makes the chassis steer more aggressively, but like I said before I've never tried it myself.

2nd part: Look around, there's whole books dedicated to R/C car setup out there. I know my Old Man worked with a lot of dirt racers back in the day, some of those 1:1 car setup books can be helpful as well. Big cars or small, the same laws of physics apply, and that also means you shouldn't have to turn down a guide made in the '80s or '90s to learn car setup. Designs may have changed but it's always been 4 tires and a chassis on planet Earth.

Tubaboy

iTrader: (9)

http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32

That'll be the best source for setups and information.

Basic idea with inline axles is that it will make steering much more aggressive. Most of the time it's just best to stick with trailing axles. (how the car comes).

Basically if you look at your currenct front axle, the vertical kingpin goes in front of the axle. With Inline axles, the vertical kingpin actually goes through the axle. You'll need the inline sterring blocks, and inline axle to make the switch.

Good luck.

Paul

air8

iTrader: (7)

Thanx guys, that was helpful. I hope I put the correct ones on. I broke a steering block a few weeks back. Didn't notice a difference so I'm sure I have the correct parts. But I'd better check.

I can't imagine my truck turning more aggressive. It turns through corners and it is very planted. I might try this fri night just to see the difference for myself. ???

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

That's why a lot of people don't use them (and most hobby shops don't stock them), the T4 and B4 have plenty of cornering ability as it is. But then, I'm more of an old skool "doors first" kind of driver, and there are some nights where my truck just gets a huge push in it...

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

Hello..... what pinions will I need to run Stock and Mod Brushed and Brushless for a B-4?


Thanks

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

All depends on the track size, exactly what kind of motor you're using, your driving style, your battery...the only way to find out is to ask around in person at the track what people are running and work from there.