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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-19-2007, 08:21 AM
  #2191  
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Originally Posted by stanky626 View Post
Hey guys, I'm still having trouble with weak acceleration. I've tried different pinions, adjusting the slipper, and cleaning my motor. Could a loose diff hinder the acceleration?
Any thoughts on the acceleration problem? Could it be the diff?
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:34 AM
  #2192  
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Originally Posted by stanky626 View Post
Any thoughts on the acceleration problem? Could it be the diff?
is your diff barking when you hit the gas? also what speed control and motor are you using?
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:11 AM
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Thanks for helping. The diff is not barking. It's pretty quiet overall. I just have no acceleration. I'm using an LRP Supersport ESC and a Trinity Co27. I've used any where from a 19t pinion to a 21t.
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:34 AM
  #2194  
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Originally Posted by stanky626 View Post
Thanks for helping. The diff is not barking. It's pretty quiet overall. I just have no acceleration. I'm using an LRP Supersport ESC and a Trinity Co27. I've used any where from a 19t pinion to a 21t.
If you hold both wheels and apply full throttle what happens? The wheels should come off the ground an inch or 2.

When you land jumps, does your diff bark then?

From a stop, when you apply full throttle (on the dirt) how far does your car travel before the slipper stops slipping?

How tight is the diff currently? It should be fully tigtened, then backed off about an 1/8th of a turn. How about the slipper, from the point of when the top of the nut is at the end, how many full rotations did you make before it's current position?

When you built your diff and slipper, did you pre-compress the springs with pliers?

Anyways, hopefully these questions will provide some insight on how to fix it, or enable us to help you more.
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:16 PM
  #2195  
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check what Tubaboy says... If you don't have your diff and slipper set any motor will seem slow/no acceleration. Took me awhile to get mine all set right w/ the brushless now it's hookn and it's like I'm at mcdonalds. ...I'm loven' it.
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:11 PM
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Thanks for the help you guys. I tightened my diff and the acceleration improved. I'll know for sure when I take my B4 to the track.

Cheers
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:02 AM
  #2197  
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Originally Posted by stanky626 View Post
Thanks for the help you guys. I tightened my diff and the acceleration improved. I'll know for sure when I take my B4 to the track.

Cheers
Tighten the diff till the spring bottoms out. Back it off just over 1/8 turn. Bam! You're done.
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:30 PM
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I just got my B4. How do I tell what model it is? It doesnt have the threaded shocks but has the carbon a arms. Also The car pushes more then a bull dozer. How do I make the car turn while on the trottle? I got the buggy used. The wrong springs are on the car right now so. Also I'm runnigna CO27 with stock spur and 22tooth pinion. After 1 full practice run the motor was very hot so it's over geared. Should I try a 19t pinion? The speedo wasnt hot.
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Old 06-21-2007, 10:06 PM
  #2199  
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Originally Posted by Neon05 View Post
I just got my B4. How do I tell what model it is? It doesnt have the threaded shocks but has the carbon a arms. Also The car pushes more then a bull dozer. How do I make the car turn while on the trottle? I got the buggy used. The wrong springs are on the car right now so. Also I'm runnigna CO27 with stock spur and 22tooth pinion. After 1 full practice run the motor was very hot so it's over geared. Should I try a 19t pinion? The speedo wasnt hot.
most of your questions are null and void (useless) unless you describe the track your racing on. surface type, how technical, and how big...

try a 19t or 20t pinion...
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Old 06-21-2007, 10:20 PM
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Chances are its a Team kit with some hop-ups. Please describe the track you are running on. My word of advice when you are changing pinions, NEVER go down or up more than 2 teeth at a time.
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Old 06-24-2007, 10:55 PM
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If your b4 is pushing a great starting point is 35 WT. oil in the rear and 30 WT. oil in the front and the more rear traction that you have the more that your car will push. I would try putting some slight tow in and -1 degree camber in the front. The tow in will make the tire turn sharper and the -1 degree camber will become 0 degrees when your shock is compressed while you are turning which will give you most front traction possible. After putting on a lap or two try adjusting your springs they will most likely need it(stiffening the rear and softening the front is suggested for cars that push). If this is still not enough you can also try shifting your battery farward and putting some of associated's weights in the front (about 3.00$) and always remember to wet the track for the most traction. That buggy that you purchased is not a factory team, but a team buggy you can tell for sure if it came with a blue, or black riveted motor plate. If you have any problems or questions just tell me. I will be watching the forum.
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:15 PM
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Here is my Factory Team B4.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 06-25-2007, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Zackarias View Post
If your b4 is pushing a great starting point is 35 WT. oil in the rear and 30 WT. oil in the front and the more rear traction that you have the more that your car will push. I would try putting some slight tow in and -1 degree camber in the front. The tow in will make the tire turn sharper and the -1 degree camber will become 0 degrees when your shock is compressed while you are turning which will give you most front traction possible. After putting on a lap or two try adjusting your springs they will most likely need it(stiffening the rear and softening the front is suggested for cars that push). If this is still not enough you can also try shifting your battery farward and putting some of associated's weights in the front (about 3.00$) and always remember to wet the track for the most traction. That buggy that you purchased is not a factory team, but a team buggy you can tell for sure if it came with a blue, or black riveted motor plate. If you have any problems or questions just tell me. I will be watching the forum.
I'm going to disagree with the toe in thing. This will make the front end less responsive, especially on entry. But don't go toe out as it will make the car really darty.
I'm not a big fan of that much camber either. Can be real inconsistent through the middle of the corner.
Play with tires more, as they are at least 80% of a good set up. Also ride height is crucial.
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Old 06-25-2007, 06:36 PM
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You may be geared correctly and just ran to long. With the batteries out you can run way longer than the motor is intended. So if your full practice run was over 6 minutes your motor would most likely be overheated even if geared properly.
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:39 PM
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To your pushing issue. I would add some anti squat to the rear of the car and shorten the rear link or lower it. But changing tires will have more to do with the car than this will.
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