34LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
06-07-2007, 05:50 AM
#2132
CMotif:
Gladiators are probably not the tire you want - What kind of surface are you running on?
Maybe its the tire compound (Hard M2 vs Soft M3). The more information, the better!
Part of your problem might also be because of the size of the tires - the Gladiators are slightly taller than the usual truck tire and that has changed your gearing.
Gladiators are probably not the tire you want - What kind of surface are you running on?
Maybe its the tire compound (Hard M2 vs Soft M3). The more information, the better!
Part of your problem might also be because of the size of the tires - the Gladiators are slightly taller than the usual truck tire and that has changed your gearing.
06-07-2007, 08:14 AM
#2133
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Holeshots are for a hard packed surface. The Gladiators are really a bashing tire, but will work okay on loamy or loose surfaces. Get the right tires first. What are the fast guys using? Then, when was the truck spinning out? Corner entrance, middle, or exit? I assume the push after you changed tires was in the middle of the corner? The T4 is sensitve to ride height and shock limiting changes too, play around with that.
06-07-2007, 08:39 AM
#2134
Also, if you have "too much steering" the rear end will snap loose
06-07-2007, 10:32 AM
#2135
Here is the deal. RC has not been in our town. Town of 150 people. I am starting the club, and I am the one with the most experience, though I am new to Off-road. As far as follow the fast guy, I am the fast guy.
The empty lot where we race is very loose. We don't own it, the city does and they are going to let us use it. The other choice was to race on Grass. For both Grass and Loose soil, the Gladiators were recommended.
Other vehicles in the club are a Losi XXXT Brushless, my son's T4 and Rustler. We are having our second club meet this Sunday. I expect that soon there will be a much more T4s, XXXTs, and Raven STs, and Evader STs.
Is is possible that I am just try to carry way too much speed through the corner.
How about steering speed? That is something that I am supposed to be able to adjust on my radio.
The springs are silver upfront and green in the back. The ones in the back have several plastic pre-load pieces in each side. Bought the T4 used and that is the way that it came.
I do have a complete set of tuning springs. What color/weight should I go to?
The previous meeting I ran our other T4. With a Monster Horsepower stock motor and holeshot T tires. I would have kept up with the brushless if I was not having so much trouble with oversteer, going from wicked right oversteer into wicked left oversteer. Obviously you are faster if you can go straight, rather than have your tires break loose and put you in a spin.
Lots of dirt rooster tails, and a lot of dirt to shake out of the truck after the race.
So hopefully that will help explain my situation. Anything that you pass on to me, I will pass on to our other racers.
Cmotif <><
The empty lot where we race is very loose. We don't own it, the city does and they are going to let us use it. The other choice was to race on Grass. For both Grass and Loose soil, the Gladiators were recommended.
Other vehicles in the club are a Losi XXXT Brushless, my son's T4 and Rustler. We are having our second club meet this Sunday. I expect that soon there will be a much more T4s, XXXTs, and Raven STs, and Evader STs.
Is is possible that I am just try to carry way too much speed through the corner.
How about steering speed? That is something that I am supposed to be able to adjust on my radio.
The springs are silver upfront and green in the back. The ones in the back have several plastic pre-load pieces in each side. Bought the T4 used and that is the way that it came.
I do have a complete set of tuning springs. What color/weight should I go to?
The previous meeting I ran our other T4. With a Monster Horsepower stock motor and holeshot T tires. I would have kept up with the brushless if I was not having so much trouble with oversteer, going from wicked right oversteer into wicked left oversteer. Obviously you are faster if you can go straight, rather than have your tires break loose and put you in a spin.
Lots of dirt rooster tails, and a lot of dirt to shake out of the truck after the race.
So hopefully that will help explain my situation. Anything that you pass on to me, I will pass on to our other racers.
Cmotif <><
06-07-2007, 11:06 AM
#2136
Everyone at our track runs the same basline setup and adjusts to what they need from there. How many degrees of antisquat are you running? Try zero and see if that helps. You could also try to remove the washers from underneath the silver ballstuds on the front inside of the shock tower. That will tame the steering down a little bit. Post your setup exactly and I will try to help. In the end, you'll probably try the Cavaleri setup (which is what most of us run)
06-07-2007, 11:30 AM
#2137
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
You can limit your steering with the radio, but you were talking about the truck pushing with the Gladiators on it. That would just make it worse. If the Glads give you good forward bite then assume that's the "right" tire, 'cause it's always fun to be able to put power down. You might try some step pins (Losi or Panther) when you get a chance. The spring combo you have is fine, sometimes I run blues up front if I want less steering. The first thing to do is get the ride height correct. Rear should be bones level or just above level, front should be A-arms level. Do this with a battery pack in it, and push the truck down and relese to compress the suspension to normal ride height. If you find out your ride height was off, then fix it and leave it alone till you get to run it again. It makes a big difference on the T4.
Second is shock limiting. The T4 has a lot of travel. I generally run about 0.180" limiting in front to keep the back from squatting too much and lifting the front wheels (thereby decreasing steering). I think Wookie's base setup starts with 0.210' in front, but I only use that on high bite tracks. Rear I generally run 0.90". This keeps the front end from diving too much under braking and unloading the rear end into the corner (which is what may have been happening to you). 30 wt oil rear and 35 wt in front is a good starting point. You can play with these settingg depending on what the car is doing that you don't like. You can also run a longer camber link up front to tame the steering. If your camber links are on the inner hole on the caster block, move them to the outer.
Second is shock limiting. The T4 has a lot of travel. I generally run about 0.180" limiting in front to keep the back from squatting too much and lifting the front wheels (thereby decreasing steering). I think Wookie's base setup starts with 0.210' in front, but I only use that on high bite tracks. Rear I generally run 0.90". This keeps the front end from diving too much under braking and unloading the rear end into the corner (which is what may have been happening to you). 30 wt oil rear and 35 wt in front is a good starting point. You can play with these settingg depending on what the car is doing that you don't like. You can also run a longer camber link up front to tame the steering. If your camber links are on the inner hole on the caster block, move them to the outer.
06-09-2007, 01:13 PM
#2139
I snapped one of the trailing front axles while trying to screw on an Associated front wheel locknut (item #6242). A few questions...
1) What's up with this? These nuts are really hard to screw on. Am I using the wrong nuts? Should I stick with the plastic locknuts that came with the kit?
2) I've noticed that they have inline front axles. I don't quite understand the difference between these and the stock trailing axles, other than aluminum vs. steel. Can someone explain it to me?
Thanks!
1) What's up with this? These nuts are really hard to screw on. Am I using the wrong nuts? Should I stick with the plastic locknuts that came with the kit?
2) I've noticed that they have inline front axles. I don't quite understand the difference between these and the stock trailing axles, other than aluminum vs. steel. Can someone explain it to me?
Thanks!
06-09-2007, 01:21 PM
#2140
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought the front axles had a 5-40 pitch, not 4-40?
As for trailing vs. inline, inline spindles make the steering feel more aggressive as you enter the corner but they have less steering as you exit. It makes the car twitchier with more initial steering, but less steering throughout the rest of the turn.
As for trailing vs. inline, inline spindles make the steering feel more aggressive as you enter the corner but they have less steering as you exit. It makes the car twitchier with more initial steering, but less steering throughout the rest of the turn.
06-09-2007, 01:34 PM
#2141
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
The thread on the axle is 5-40, not 4-40. That would explain the difficulty......... I use plastic RPM nuts just because, no good reason. They are intended for 4-40, but since they are plastic, they work just fine. AE sells metal ones under #6629. But any decent nut & bolt supply or hardware store will have them.
I tried the inline axles a couple of years ago. Didn't notice much of a difference at the time. My driving skillz (
) might have improved a tiny bit since then, so I might try them again at some point. A buddy who is fast liked them. They are supposed to sharpen the steering some, maybe to the point of being twitchy. And, the "pros" don't admit to using them on the published setup sheets.
Killer beat me to it by a few minutes.......that's what I get for getting up and doing other things in the middle of a reply....
I tried the inline axles a couple of years ago. Didn't notice much of a difference at the time. My driving skillz (
) might have improved a tiny bit since then, so I might try them again at some point. A buddy who is fast liked them. They are supposed to sharpen the steering some, maybe to the point of being twitchy. And, the "pros" don't admit to using them on the published setup sheets.Killer beat me to it by a few minutes.......that's what I get for getting up and doing other things in the middle of a reply....
06-09-2007, 01:40 PM
#2142
Thanks Manning and killer89! The wrong nuts explain the problem.
06-09-2007, 04:59 PM
#2143
I've used plastic nuts forever. No problems, as long us you replace them when they dont tighten up anymore. When I thread new ones on, I thread them on partially without the wheel on.
