34LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
03-15-2007, 04:58 PM
#1786
Yeak
You don't need the measurements, you can do all this with a straight edge and a Mk I eyeball. Hook it up to your transmiiter and set it to neutral.
Then eyeball the front wheels to get toe in/out as close to zero as possible. Then put a straight edge against your front wheels and mark a line on your table with a piece of chalk. Measure two parts of the the two lines to get it exactly right if you want.
But I just eyeball it to 0 degrees and that has been good enough for me.
For steering throw, turn the truck upside down, full left steering, put your straight edge on the side of the wheel, mark where it touches your chassis. Repeat for the other side and adjust until they are the same.
Should be able to do the whole lot in 15 - 20 mins.
You'll probably want to check your front camber as well if things are this far out of whack.
MIKE
You don't need the measurements, you can do all this with a straight edge and a Mk I eyeball. Hook it up to your transmiiter and set it to neutral.
Then eyeball the front wheels to get toe in/out as close to zero as possible. Then put a straight edge against your front wheels and mark a line on your table with a piece of chalk. Measure two parts of the the two lines to get it exactly right if you want.
But I just eyeball it to 0 degrees and that has been good enough for me.
For steering throw, turn the truck upside down, full left steering, put your straight edge on the side of the wheel, mark where it touches your chassis. Repeat for the other side and adjust until they are the same.
Should be able to do the whole lot in 15 - 20 mins.
You'll probably want to check your front camber as well if things are this far out of whack.
MIKE
Originally Posted by yeaklet4
im have so much problems with trying to get the front end straight. if you go bye the book its not even close one tires pionts that way and the other points over there. so can some one meassure all of the front tie rods. please also need the t4 front end meassured also why would the book say to make them this long and that not even bee close
03-15-2007, 07:37 PM
#1787
Originally Posted by ALJR
Not too sure here. But I think he may be refering to the dog bone style axls. Not the CVD's or universal axles...
03-15-2007, 11:41 PM
#1789
Weird I've had my T4 for almost 2 years now and have went for well over 6 months at a time without even touching the set screw on the CVD, no problems at all with the pins coming loose. Have you considered balancing your tires (if you don't already) to lessen the vibration your trucks sees?
03-16-2007, 07:42 AM
#1790
Tech Master
Originally Posted by WheelNut
Weird I've had my T4 for almost 2 years now and have went for well over 6 months at a time without even touching the set screw on the CVD, no problems at all with the pins coming loose. Have you considered balancing your tires (if you don't already) to lessen the vibration your trucks sees?
03-16-2007, 10:10 AM
#1791
Any of you guys do the RPM GT2 arm mod to your T4's? They are TIGHT and require some sanding to get smooth suspension movement! Also, if you use the included screws for securing the inner hinge pins, it is impossible to fit the stock bumper back on. I had to use some set screws instead... Also, will the FT GT2 aluminum bulkhead brace fit with the RPM arms? I am thinking not, but would like to confirm this...
03-16-2007, 07:14 PM
#1792
Tech Master
Originally Posted by ALJR
Any of you guys do the RPM GT2 arm mod to your T4's? They are TIGHT and require some sanding to get smooth suspension movement! Also, if you use the included screws for securing the inner hinge pins, it is impossible to fit the stock bumper back on. I had to use some set screws instead... Also, will the FT GT2 aluminum bulkhead brace fit with the RPM arms? I am thinking not, but would like to confirm this...
03-17-2007, 03:21 PM
#1793
Originally Posted by Craps
I am using the AE GT2 front "A" arms, Caster blocks and steering blocks on my T-4s due to they're durability compared to the T-4 ones.
I was thinking of going that rout. But the gt2 arms look just as weak in the inner hingpin area as the T4's...
Thought the caster block and steering knuckles were the same between the t4 & gt2...
03-17-2007, 08:22 PM
#1794
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by ALJR
Did you have to use the gt2 bulkhead as well? Or are they the same?
I was thinking of going that rout. But the gt2 arms look just as weak in the inner hingpin area as the T4's...
Thought the caster block and steering knuckles were the same between the t4 & gt2...
I was thinking of going that rout. But the gt2 arms look just as weak in the inner hingpin area as the T4's...
Thought the caster block and steering knuckles were the same between the t4 & gt2...
03-17-2007, 08:22 PM
#1795
Tech Apprentice
what website would one acquire upgrade for their B4?
03-17-2007, 09:25 PM
#1796
Originally Posted by trashedmaxx
I just put the gt2 parts on my t4 today, using the stock aluminum t4 bulkhead. The steering knuckles and castor blocks are the same just beefed up.
03-18-2007, 01:22 AM
#1797
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by ALJR
Your T4 came w/ an aluminum bulkhead? Or are you refering to the bulkhead bace?
. also what is a good battery to run in the stock truck. i've got 2 venom 3000 mah packs now. is the prophet plus lcd charger any good?.thanks.
