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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 03-15-2007, 04:58 PM
  #1786  
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Yeak

You don't need the measurements, you can do all this with a straight edge and a Mk I eyeball. Hook it up to your transmiiter and set it to neutral.

Then eyeball the front wheels to get toe in/out as close to zero as possible. Then put a straight edge against your front wheels and mark a line on your table with a piece of chalk. Measure two parts of the the two lines to get it exactly right if you want.

But I just eyeball it to 0 degrees and that has been good enough for me.

For steering throw, turn the truck upside down, full left steering, put your straight edge on the side of the wheel, mark where it touches your chassis. Repeat for the other side and adjust until they are the same.

Should be able to do the whole lot in 15 - 20 mins.

You'll probably want to check your front camber as well if things are this far out of whack.

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Originally Posted by yeaklet4
im have so much problems with trying to get the front end straight. if you go bye the book its not even close one tires pionts that way and the other points over there. so can some one meassure all of the front tie rods. please also need the t4 front end meassured also why would the book say to make them this long and that not even bee close
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:37 PM
  #1787  
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Originally Posted by ALJR
Not too sure here. But I think he may be refering to the dog bone style axls. Not the CVD's or universal axles...
Right now I have CVDs but am considering putting on dog bones if the pin keeps sliding out. But I bought a pair of boots at RCE today, hopefully they work
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:09 PM
  #1788  
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I have been using the shrink from Lowe's for years and never had a problem with the pin coming out.
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:41 PM
  #1789  
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Weird I've had my T4 for almost 2 years now and have went for well over 6 months at a time without even touching the set screw on the CVD, no problems at all with the pins coming loose. Have you considered balancing your tires (if you don't already) to lessen the vibration your trucks sees?
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:42 AM
  #1790  
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Originally Posted by WheelNut
Weird I've had my T4 for almost 2 years now and have went for well over 6 months at a time without even touching the set screw on the CVD, no problems at all with the pins coming loose. Have you considered balancing your tires (if you don't already) to lessen the vibration your trucks sees?
I think it is a problem with a newer batch of set screw/CVD that will not stay snug and maybe a problem with mod/BL/gas motor trucks/buggies with Associated CVD due the increased power and speed.
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:10 AM
  #1791  
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Any of you guys do the RPM GT2 arm mod to your T4's? They are TIGHT and require some sanding to get smooth suspension movement! Also, if you use the included screws for securing the inner hinge pins, it is impossible to fit the stock bumper back on. I had to use some set screws instead... Also, will the FT GT2 aluminum bulkhead brace fit with the RPM arms? I am thinking not, but would like to confirm this...
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:14 PM
  #1792  
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Originally Posted by ALJR
Any of you guys do the RPM GT2 arm mod to your T4's? They are TIGHT and require some sanding to get smooth suspension movement! Also, if you use the included screws for securing the inner hinge pins, it is impossible to fit the stock bumper back on. I had to use some set screws instead... Also, will the FT GT2 aluminum bulkhead brace fit with the RPM arms? I am thinking not, but would like to confirm this...
I am using the AE GT2 front "A" arms, Caster blocks and steering blocks on my T-4s due to they're durability compared to the T-4 ones.
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:21 PM
  #1793  
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Originally Posted by Craps
I am using the AE GT2 front "A" arms, Caster blocks and steering blocks on my T-4s due to they're durability compared to the T-4 ones.
Did you have to use the gt2 bulkhead as well? Or are they the same?

I was thinking of going that rout. But the gt2 arms look just as weak in the inner hingpin area as the T4's...

Thought the caster block and steering knuckles were the same between the t4 & gt2...
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Old 03-17-2007, 08:22 PM
  #1794  
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Originally Posted by ALJR
Did you have to use the gt2 bulkhead as well? Or are they the same?

I was thinking of going that rout. But the gt2 arms look just as weak in the inner hingpin area as the T4's...

Thought the caster block and steering knuckles were the same between the t4 & gt2...
I just put the gt2 parts on my t4 today, using the stock aluminum t4 bulkhead. The steering knuckles and castor blocks are the same just beefed up.
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Old 03-17-2007, 08:22 PM
  #1795  
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what website would one acquire upgrade for their B4?
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:25 PM
  #1796  
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Originally Posted by trashedmaxx
I just put the gt2 parts on my t4 today, using the stock aluminum t4 bulkhead. The steering knuckles and castor blocks are the same just beefed up.
Your T4 came w/ an aluminum bulkhead? Or are you refering to the bulkhead bace?
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Old 03-18-2007, 01:22 AM
  #1797  
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Originally Posted by ALJR
Your T4 came w/ an aluminum bulkhead? Or are you refering to the bulkhead bace?
I have the trinity aluminum B4/T4 bulkhead, same dimensions as the stock t4 plastic piece. I was also curious about upgrading to the gt2 arms because I thought I would need the gt2 bulkhead.
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Old 03-18-2007, 01:58 AM
  #1798  
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The T4 and GT2 use the same bulkhead. The GT2 arms go right onto the T4 as long as you aren't using inline axles, and of course you need shorter outer hinge pins.
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:48 PM
  #1799  
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Can anyone measure up the Woven Carbon Fibre Strap please.



Cheers
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Old 03-19-2007, 03:27 PM
  #1800  
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i'm getting a t4rs soon an i'd like to know what to watch out for if anything besides crashes . also what is a good battery to run in the stock truck. i've got 2 venom 3000 mah packs now. is the prophet plus lcd charger any good?.thanks.
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