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Old 01-14-2013, 07:25 PM
  #1501  
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Originally Posted by KoryRC
You mentioned that you followed the setup sheet -- however, just to be sure, is the rear lower shock holder in the outermost hole on the a-arm (ie, close to wheel). I made the mistake of mounting the shock on the innermost hole on the a-arm and had the problem you just described.
Nope... Upper shock mount=1. Lower=C. Outboard top and bottom
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:31 AM
  #1502  
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Originally Posted by trevcoll
You may want to try the factory carbon fiber towers F & R. I think if you look at the setup sheet for the J-Concepts in Massachusets back in October Matt mentions using them them on the setup sheet. You can also try the blue springs up front. I've been pretty happy with this setup on a smallish indoor track.
After I posted this I did some more digging and it appears you are correct. He is using what he calls "prototype" MIP towers that have 3 additional holes on each side that match up to what the holes would be on the TLR towers. So followed his advice, and just drilled the holes on the MIP tower to match up with the stock tower. However that does raise a question for me... I thought the point of this kit was to make the suspension "work" better by changing the geometery of the suspension. And yet it seems they are going back to the original setup, minus the Bypass1 of course. Just a little odd...
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:35 AM
  #1503  
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WOW, that's really saying something the Kyosho SC-R SP is one of the best out there!

You'll have to keep everyone filled in on how things go in stock. That's where myself and many others would like to take the truck!
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:41 AM
  #1504  
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Default MIP chassis + King Headz Motor Mount

Hooked up my SCTEs with the MIP kit, some new kicks and a few other upgrades. However, I've run into a problem. The MIP chassis + dual bearing King Headz motor mount and center diff upright is less compatible than I had hoped. With the stock 40t spur, the gear is dangerously close to the chassis -- apparently with the MIP 41t it actually does rub the chassis itself. However, the problem I am having is that the spur rubs the rear part of the gear groove in the chassis. It is minimal, but nevertheless causes a bit of bind.

Matt Olson mentioned that uses spacers to lift the KHZ mounts slightly from the chassis when running the MIP 41t. What spacers were used? Any other suggestions to fix this issue?

It seems the issue with the spur gears only happens withe the MIP chassis + KHZ mounts. Stock chassis + KHZ mount = no issues. MIP chassis + stock mounts = no issues. KHZ chassis + KHZ mounts = no issues. MIP chassis + KHZ mounts = issues.

As an aside, the other issue I had with the KHZ mounts was that the set screw for the pinion gear needed to be dremeled down a couple of mm to properly fit the pinion and set the gear mesh (it otherwise sticks out too far on the motor shaft or hits the motor mount).
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:26 PM
  #1505  
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Matt am I still able to get CVDs for an old gold pan rc10? Broke my dog bones and want to get it running again.
Thanks
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:47 PM
  #1506  
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Can you take the MIP Shock towers for the scte and drill the exact same holes out on that shock tower to match the TLR shock tower?
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tio Loco
I just installed the chassis kit in my SCTE last week, and got to run it yesterday and today. I'm very impressed. As a new driver, I wondered if I would even know enough to detect a difference, but the difference is huge. Makes even my driving skills look good. The term I've heard used repeatedly is 'planted' and that describes it exactly. I'm having way more fun now.

But I'm confused about the springs.

I followed the instructions and the basic setup to the letter, using the Losi front springs in the rear, but they just don't seem long enough. I've got ride height at about 27mm but at droop, both the front (MIP yellow) and the rear springs have zero tension on them. At the end of each day, the springs are askew on the retainers/mounts. I'm actually surprised I have not lost a mount.

Putting the TLR Orange rear springs on, and setting the adjustment rings all the way up, I get about 29mm ride height in the rear.

I'm sure I'm missing something.... any idea about what I'm missing?
I don't run my truck that tall. Try ride height around 25mm or so. Unless you're on an outdoor 1/8 track with huge jumps.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by J-RO
Can you take the MIP Shock towers for the scte and drill the exact same holes out on that shock tower to match the TLR shock tower?
Yup this is what I did....
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:31 PM
  #1509  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
I don't run my truck that tall. Try ride height around 25mm or so. Unless you're on an outdoor 1/8 track with huge jumps.
That is exactly the problem. If I set the ride height to 25mm, then at droop, the springs are just flopping around between the perch and the adjustment nut.

... and it is a big, ugly, rough 1/8 track
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:36 PM
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What MIP Spring is the equilivant of the tlr orange rear spring for the scte?
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:39 PM
  #1511  
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I know i said this before but the weight thing is kind of overrated . For one because ive seen guys with the quote racer trucks add a ton of lead weights because there to light so i dont see the advantage really.

However if your running the STRC conversion kit i would get the lighter upper graphite piece and the bottom fiberglass piece for sure to lighten it up a little more makes a diffrence in handling for sure !
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:54 PM
  #1512  
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J-Ro, MIP only makes springs for the front. Most of the current setups use a Losi orange rear spring.

Tio Loco, Have you tried the orange rear spring instead of the front spring in the rear?
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:31 PM
  #1513  
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Originally Posted by CCristo
...
Tio Loco, Have you tried the orange rear spring instead of the front spring in the rear?
Yes, in my original post

...Putting the TLR Orange rear springs on, and setting the adjustment rings all the way up, I get about 29mm ride height in the rear...
It solves one problem but exacerbates the ride height issue...
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:42 PM
  #1514  
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I have what i beleive to be the Rear Stock Springs, but that is all i have for the rear. Would it be better to use the stock rears or the MIP fronts? if so which one?
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:55 PM
  #1515  
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Originally Posted by Tio Loco
That is exactly the problem. If I set the ride height to 25mm, then at droop, the springs are just flopping around between the perch and the adjustment nut.

... and it is a big, ugly, rough 1/8 track
What shock locations are you using? Do you have your shock eyes unscrewed or anything?
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