john watkins

iTrader: (17)

Yep, sorry forgot to mention, 13.5 Stock (blinky) mode for the Cactus


I have kinda figured a starting ration of about 7.0:1 but its more a guess than anything else.

john watkins

iTrader: (17)

Sorry Guys,

I also need clarifaction on timing adjustment,

When looking at rear endbell, do you turn the Endbell Anti Clockwise (left) to increase timing? I can find any of my manuals.

kevink123

iTrader: (16)

you would turn the endbell counter clockwise so if its in the car towards the front "if its in a 2wd offroad that is" you want to put it on 3 not all the way to 4 so in between 4 and 2 for best results I've found. 4 is fast but ramps up late to where 3 ramped up a touch earlier and felt stronger throughout. hope this helps.

bukil

iTrader: (39)

Any word on the ROAR approval of these bad boys?

Crashby

Yes! The Team Powers 13.5 Plutonium brushless, sensored motors have been approved by ROAR and are on the ROAR approved list. The Team Powers 12.5 tuning rotor is also approved and listed on the ROAR approved website.

bukil

iTrader: (39)

YGPM Crashby

kevink123

iTrader: (16)

I've been testing these motors now for about 3 months using 17.5 with the 12.5 HT rotor and IMO that is what is needed. Compared to others these motors are awesome but the biggest thing when gearing them is they love to rev out and with that you can gear it lower and get the same speed but add that bottom end.

I run it in a Kyosho SC-R P and compared to others my gearing was way diffrent and I was faster all over and ran cooler. On a med to small tight track I was geared at 82/24 when others were 78/28 or 75/whatever and not only did I have the punch to jump a double but I had the same punch lap after lap giving me a clear advantage.

All motors are diffrent but to me if your power comes on to soon it will get hotter and you can't gear it for speed but when it comes on late and comes on fast you can gear it down for low end and still have that fast top end and everything will run way more effecient.

I also was obviously no boost blinky and put my endbell on +3-4 not directly on 4 but inbetween more towards 4. these motors are wicked fast and amazing so far.

Crashby

I finally got the website up and functioning. For all of your Team Powers product needs, please go to:

http://rocketrcspeedshop.webstorepowered.com/

primomojo

iTrader: (16)

I just got a Team Powers 21.5t spurt motor (AKA short can motor) to run in my F1 car. This thing is AWESOME!!! I ran it at the local club race last night and it was so fast that my friends were teasing me saying I was running turbo so I invited everyone to check my ESC.

As of right now the UF1 sanction and most clubs don't require a ROAR approved motor to race F1, they just say it needs to be a 21.5. So if any of you F1 guys want to go fast, try a 21.5 spurt motor. The only thing to keep in mind is you will need to gear down from what most other guys are running so it stays cool. Most 21.5 drivers around here run about a 2.5/2.6 ratio but this makes the spurt motor run REALLY hot. I played with gearing and settled on a 3.7 ratio and it's perfect.

-Dean

1mrdad

iTrader: (48)

I am running 1/10 paved on-road 17.5 blinky TC with a TC6. The track is a well maintained 220x125 smooth paved asphalt. I am looking to try a different motor as my car's straight line acceleration and top speed is noticably slower than most of the field on the club's 220' straight. After having read many good things about Team Powers motors, I wanted to try one. Do you recommend using the stock rotor or bumping up to the 12.5 rotor for this large fast track.

Rockin G

iTrader: (6)

I have a TC6. My track is nowhere near that size. Maybe 100' straightaway. I am about to swap my motor from my LRPX11 to the Team Powers 17.5T in Blinky mode. I have been running a 4.57 FDR with the X11. The TP has the timing adjustments on the endbell. Is there a sweet spot on the timing for this motor? I usually try to gear the X11 not to exceed 170-180. (In Texas where ambient is close to 100 already.) Will this motor tolserate that temp or can I push it higher? (X12 can go to 210)

My ESC is the LRP TC Sphere. Currently set on profile 8....just was an experiment in the last main. But I have been on about 6.

Recap of questions.
1. Timing
2. Heat

Crashby

These motors will take a lot of heat but of course, the cooler you can run the motor the better. The higher the temp, the more damage to the rotor so eventually, you would need to replace the rotor. A friend of mine got his Team Powers 17.5 up to 300 degrees!! I took the motor apart and while the windings on the stator where darkened the rotor was useless. It literally fell out of the can!! I put a new 12.3 rotor in the motor and it was faster than before he got it hot! Team Powers won the 2011 & 2012 Reedy Race of Champions 17.5 blinky class and the 2012 13.5 blinky class. Our motors came off the track anywhere from 160 to 180 without any noticeable loss of performance. For 17.5 blinky, turn the timing on the end bell to maximum and start with 4.1 gearing. Go up and down one tooth at a time monitoring lap times and motor temps. Each motor has it's own sweet spot some testing is required to find that sweet spot. At the Reedy we ran TOP cars anywhere from 4.0 to 3.9 depending on motor. For touring car racing you do not need the 12.5 rotor. For off road 17.5 you do need the 12.5 rotor.

primomojo

iTrader: (16)

My friends and I have been racing TC's with the 17.5 Plutonium motors for well over a year now and we have done a lot of testing/tuning to get dialed in to our local tracks and here are my observations...

The Plutonium motors can definitely handle more heat than other motors although I certainly wouldn't recommend it. One of my buddies is stubborn and won't gear down so he consistently runs his motor in the 200-220 range (occasionally 250-ish) and has seen no loss in performance in over a year.

The plutonium motors seem to like to rev and have really good mid and top end power and we found we had to gear down a couple teeth from LRP or other motors.

As for rotors, we have tried all the rotors in our Plutoniums and for our very short/tight track I like the 13mm rotor because it seems to be the best balance of torque and speed while maintaining a decent temperature. For larger tracks we like the 12.5mm.

I run a Schumacher Mi4CX geared at 4.59 ratio (on the short track) and the timing sweet spot is +2 degrees on the endbell with a 13mm rotor. I get great performance and the temps are in the 170-180 range in the Houston, TX heat. This may seem a tad hot for some motors but for a Plutonium it doesn't affect it at all.

We also found that if ramping (boost and turbo) is allowed, you can make a Plutonium scream faster than a 6.5 turn motor and still run nice and cool. If you turn the bell timing to the lowest setting (-8 I think) then set the ESC so that the boost and turbo stages to be linear instead of the turbo hitting hard, the 17.5 Plutonium power is very smooth, it runs about 100 degrees and will eat up a 6.5t motor. In the infield it was a bit faster than the 6.5, but by the end of the straightaway it left the 6.5t in the dust.

Hands down, the Team Powers motors are my favorite. You should see what the "Spurt Series - Lite" motors can do. ;-)

Just my $.02