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Another couple of observations.....the losi 8b shock towers only have one set of holes for shock mountingand the camber link holes only allow for longer or shorter links, i cant mount the link higher on the tower, just the hub. WTF!? The euro edition towers have the same shock mounting holes but they do have more camber link options
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Are we talking everything assuming that fredswain is right? Then I'm out LOL since I can't quite agree with him.
Originally Posted by fredswain
(Post 13903634)
There's nothing wrong with 2 different brands. Perform the experiment and achieve balance. THEN take it to the track.
Originally Posted by bksrt
(Post 13903696)
Thats what i was thinking....the brand of spring doesnt matter....i still get proper ride height. I still get all the extension and compression i did before. Shouldnt matter whether i use losi springs or traxxas springs as long as they dont interfere with the shocks range of motion who cares? Once i get balance i can worry about having matching brand names. If i figure out the spring rate of the Caster springs i can find some thing thats the same from losi later on down the road and all ill have to worry about is ride height since the casters are a bit taller.
Originally Posted by bds81175
(Post 13903772)
I think the only point I would make about the different brands of springs is that you can't really trust their rates as advertised. So if you find balance with an AE big bore 4.20 in front you won't necessarily be able to get the same result with a Losi 4.20 spring (just an example). If you are interested in tinkering and truly learning how your car works, this is a great way to get started with it. I think a lot of people run their cars either over-sprung or over-damped on one end and the camber link mounts do next to nothing. When you actually get spring rate and damping set accurately to the track conditions, your camber link adjustments will be much more noticeable.
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I'm not saying to use one brand on the right side and another brand on the left from a different manufacturer. What I am saying is that you can use one brand on one end and another brand at the opposite end. That's fine. I'd have thought this was obvious.
I don't force anyone to believe me. I will always point out wrong or bad advice though. |
Fred, love your signature. That's awesome!
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Originally Posted by fredswain
(Post 13903947)
I'm not saying to use one brand on the right side and another brand on the left from a different manufacturer. What I am saying is that you can use one brand on one end and another brand at the opposite end. That's fine. I'd have thought this was obvious.
I don't force anyone to believe me. I will always point out wrong or bad advice though. |
Obviously we are not all on the same page here. Im talking about springs.....not shocks. Springs and ONLY springs. Im aware of what shocks do and dont do, i have a few years in 1:1 scale cars myself. Im trying to get my spring rates balanced, so the only thing the shocks are there for right now is to mount the springs on lol beyond that they literally arent doing shit all for me since they dont have any oil in them at the moment.
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Bingo. If only I had known this back in the day when I was trying to make my Hornet handle. Those friction dampers in the front were a bear! We've come a long way baby.
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Originally Posted by bds81175
(Post 13903978)
Bingo. If only I had known this back in the day when I was trying to make my Hornet handle. Those friction dampers in the front were a bear! We've come a long way baby.
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Originally Posted by Riv2SC10
(Post 13904234)
Everybody should learn with a Hornet. Very few chassis' are totally overpowered by a Mabuchu RS 540 , but the Hornet was.
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Yeah, look at that avatar! Rear end loaded up, tires spinning like crazy.....
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Hideeho
The hornet was way over complicated. It had a semi-live axle rear end with the transmission & motor mounted to it as unsprung weight. Now my grasshopper was a much simpler car. The tranny & motor were still mounted to the axle, but it only pivoted up & down, no left to right movement at all. There was also the tamiya that was 4wd w/ 4 wheel semi-independent suspension & 2 (count 'em ;) ) oil filled shocks! That was some truly advanced suspension:weird:. |
I'm sure this question has been ask what does the effect or if any of having the camber links angled front to back as in the link more swept forward or back??
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Originally Posted by bLamey470
(Post 13912849)
I'm sure this question has been ask what does the effect or if any of having the camber links angled front to back as in the link more swept forward or back??
In most buggies I t will change the length in very small increments. In a buggy with pillow ball front suspension (mugen, new Durango, forth coming AE, etc) moving the front upper arm front to back changes the caster. The arm can be moved up & down to adjust roll center also. The REALLY interesting thing about the design is that you can adjust the front of the upper arm separate from the back of the upper arm. This causes a change in CASTER gain (for lack of a better term). |
Hey guys. Can you tell me if I'm correct with the following in regards to the rear
1mm inner 1mm outer stiffest; higher toll center 2mm inner 1mm outer softest l; lower roll center 2mm inner 2mm outer in between both |
Originally Posted by roundguy
(Post 13748940)
Awesome video. |
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