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Ok Fred, time for you to put this thread back on track
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown
(Post 13576208)
I have same pistons front and rear with 42.5 f and 32.5 r and it seems pretty balanced to me.
Now I just need to learn how to actually " tune with camber links " to get the car to turn the way I want it to. Set your car on your bench. Push down in the middle and quickly release. Do the front and rear of the car return at the same rate? They will if your oils are balanced. Next step. Drop your car onto your bench from about a foot up. If it doesn't chassis slap, drop it from higher and higher heights until it does. When it slaps, does one end of the car slap the bench first? If you have balanced pack, both ends of the car will slap at the same time. I have yet to tune a car using this procedure and end up with equal size pistons front and rear resulting in balance. |
Originally Posted by RC10Nick
(Post 13582958)
"Seems balanced" is not the same as "is balanced." ;)
Set your car on your bench. Push down in the middle and quickly release. Do the front and rear of the car return at the same rate? They will if your oils are balanced. Next step. Drop your car onto your bench from about a foot up. If it doesn't chassis slap, drop it from higher and higher heights until it does. When it slaps, does one end of the car slap the bench first? If you have balanced pack, both ends of the car will slap at the same time. I have yet to tune a car using this procedure and end up with equal size pistons front and rear resulting in balance. |
Originally Posted by Redsawacs
(Post 13582883)
Ok Fred, time for you to put this thread back on track
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown
(Post 13583752)
Pushing the car down it comes up the same but when I drop it from about 2 feet the back bottoms out first. What would I change to make it not do that ?
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown
(Post 13583752)
Pushing the car down it comes up the same but when I drop it from about 2 feet the back bottoms out first. What would I change to make it not do that ?
You can either change to a smaller piston in the rear, or go to a bigger piston up front. That all depends on if you feel the car has too much or not enough pack when driving on your track. Once you change pistons, pick some oils to start with, and do the push/release test. Adjust your oils based on the results of this test to get the car to return to ride hide evenly. Then try the pack test again and see if you've improved or not. Good luck! I don't know about anybody else, but I have almost as fun tinkering with this kind of stuff as I do driving! |
Hello to all,
I'm currently been doing some setup at my car. It is a largescale 2wd offroad buggy. I have some problems with the ridefrequency, it seems good to me now. But the thing is i cant get a good reading because the back of the car keeps bouncing u and down, the front is at rest imidiatly after releasing it. Wheigtbalance is 5kg on the front wheels and 7kg at the rear wheels. http://youtu.be/QHp2JpV9yxg?list=UUB...k3B4R_6EeZ-Mmg can someone push me in the right direction? Jasper ps, on these kind of tracks we race. http://youtu.be/Wfdlgo7ELso |
I'm assuming your video is with no oil in the shocks, correct? You are looking at simply the rate that the chassis comes back up off the floor, not the oscillating afterwards. Without analyzing frame by frame (what I normally do) it looks like it is fairly close as you have it. Your pistons and oil will (hopefully) control that oscillation. I would start by looking at your existing video frame by frame to make certain the balance is correct. Next I would move on to the oil checking folks have been talking about and then a pack check. The car will feel better when you get this done and you will get a lot less wild movement over bumps and stuff. In addition, and this is the important part, your camber link adjustments will actually be able to be felt. A lot of times people are running imbalanced shock packages the shocks themselves resist the chassis roll too severely to let the camber links do much of anything on one end or the other.
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I'm with Nick on this....tinkering like this is a blast.
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I race with the top drivers on the northeast coast, 1/8 and 1/10 offroad, nobody uses this method for tuning their cars. This thread was suppose to be about camber link tuning. In most cases you want the rear to be softer then the front. That's why every setup you see uses softer rear Springs and lighter oils then the front. This idea of spring balancing is totally useless to setting up a car properly. Can someone please comment on tuning with camber links, something useful to setting up a car for different track conditions.
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Yes, the video was wihout oil.
I'll settle for these springs then. Compered to the traditional setups from other with this car its way stiffer at the rear. Rear has a slighty higher frequency then the front. front 3.13 Hz rear 3.23 Hz Don't know if thats the right frequency i want, but will find out at the track. Just put some oil in the shocks, if feels fine, especialy the rear. Does not bottom out and no slow rebound. Front however, doing the droptest, locksup very fast. But it feels on par with the rear in relationship to the frequency. I had a similar car, just another make, done with this setup method. I was very very happy with the result. It handelled good. However i did some calculation in order to have the same shockshaft travel front to rear. hingpin-shockmounting-outerhingpin-inclination. The previous car could be matched this way. My new car comes no where near. I think its needs more adjusting with holes and oil to compensate this. Anyway thanks for the replay. |
Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla
(Post 13608064)
I race with the top drivers on the northeast coast, 1/8 and 1/10 offroad, nobody uses this method for tuning their cars. This thread was suppose to be about camber link tuning. In most cases you want the rear to be softer then the front. That's why every setup you see uses softer rear Springs and lighter oils then the front. This idea of spring balancing is totally useless to setting up a car properly. Can someone please comment on tuning with camber links, something useful to setting up a car for different track conditions.
for what it's worth, if you're that concerned with what the top drivers do, why not just copy all their setup sheets? Do what they do if that's what you think is right. |
Just because someone has always done it wrong doesn't make it right. If I cared about how everyone else did things, I'd do things their way. Needless to say my participation in this thread is over.
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Nice work Vinny, your attitude just drove away one of the largest contributors to this thread including quite a bit about tuning with camber links. Please, no attacks. We've been putting forth good information for quite a while now and have touched on just about everything other than traction compounds. Lets keep the good ideas and positivity flowing.
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Originally Posted by fredswain
(Post 13609126)
Just because someone has always done it wrong doesn't make it right. If I cared about how everyone else did things, I'd do things their way. Needless to say my participation in this thread is over.
Don't let one twit run you off. Your input here is more valuable than his. |
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