Awesome. Math is always a good thing. I have been playing around in CAD quite a bit with the angles but there was always an unknown that I couldn't figure out that I surmised must have an effect if I was in fact wrong. Apparently that unknown was the class of lever. For some stupid reason I didn't account for the fact that it might change. It's good to see those numbers. I haven't needed calculations like that since...well school! :lol:

I looked up the 3.0 spring rates on A-main and they are very stiff compared to other Losi springs; however, that taper should make the springs somewhat progressive - but by how much? The 3.0 set ups use green springs up front and green or silver in the rear. Probably one or both of these are not balanced. Might want to play with green and silver rears and see what Fred's method yields as a balanced set of springs for each.

I was able to get a good balance on my 3.0 with the stock springs. If I remember correctly I stood the rears up and laid the fronts down. With the car set to the stock setup in the manual the front came up way faster than the rear. After my adjustments both ends came up pretty equal, not perfect but damn close.

Yeah Losi says there very little progression with the taper. Im going to check the balance this weekend, I would imagine with my car being 50/50 balanced. I should be able to use the same color front and back, my shock angle look really close to being the same from kit setup. Thank you for looking into that, really cool of you.

Whats your balance and the weight of your buggy? What kind of track do you run on? I like to know what others do on high bite clay. Wouldn't that combo of shock angle make the front real stiff and back soft? If I understand correctly. Using a high roll center, shocks wont play a big roll in roll stiffness.?

Have you found balance with any other combination of springs? Are you still using that balance and adjusting roll stiffness for cornering?

The Buggy is all stock, I haven't added any weight to it. It's a new buggy to me so I haven't changed much other than diff oils and shock oils and also playing with the camber links and sway bars. I run on a very large blown out track with med to loose grip.

The combo of the shock angles I have from front to rear achieve a balanced car using the method described earlier in this post. When the buggy is pressed down with no oil in the shocks both ends of the car raises at the same time. With the box stock setup the front would raise faster. Now they are more even (balanced).

I haven't tried different springs yet. My car seems to be ok with what it has now, the stock springs. Not really any wheel bounce or the chassis getting thrown around too much. The only thing I would want to change is maybe get more pack in the shocks. Some of the jumps are huge here.

I do adjust the roll stiffness and found that it works well. When I first put the car together I listened to some local racers and put 1,000 oil in the rear diff. After driving it it didn't want to turn mid to corner exit. So I would have to get off the gas and that made it do a snap oversteer. I did get a better balance by adjusting the rear camber links. So I know what i did works. Since then I put in the recommended stock setup of 3,000 oil and returned the camber links back to the factory setting and it's good now. Who knew that the TLR guys box stock setup would work? haha but their shock settings did make an unbalanced setup.

That would make sense assuming the adjustments were made at the top shock mounts. The stock Losi 3.0 springs are rated at 4.8 (F -green) and 3.6 (R- silver). BTW they are the same stock springs on both the electric and nitro versions of the 3.0 buggy. With the front rising faster than the back, what dwgcooks did was soften the fronts by leaning them in and stiffen the rears springs by moving the mounting positions out (straightening them). All the factory 3.0 setups except one use green fronts and green rear springs. The green rears are rated at 3.8 and may, all other things being equal, result in a more balanced set up than the silvers. Only the E buggy national champ setup uses the silver rear spring; however, I didn't check the shock mounting locations to see how different they are from stock. .

I took a video of the push down test, then played it in slo mo. Simce I have more rear droop than front, it play tricks on my eyes as the rear comes up farther. So I took some computer paper and drew lines with a straight edge an 1/8 in apart. I placed it in the back ground, now re recorded and wathing I can see exactly what is going on. My car being balanced F to R, theoretically I should be able to use greens on both end. The stock shock angle looks really close. So with greens and kit locations, front rises slightly faster, slightly. Will mount top rear one location out and record. Im just wondering if the greens are too stiff for the weight of my buggy, but I guess I'll find that out as I start oil testing.

Can someone give me a quick tip on how to keep the inside rear wheel from lifting during cornering on my 2wd sc truck? I'm thinking stiffer front springs and oil will help but if you have another suggestion please let me know.

Space holder

If the car is handling and jumping OK otherwise, I'd try heavier sway bars first. However, my gut is saying something else is going on.

Would you be willing to post the spreadsheet up onto the forum as i think alot of racers would be keen to have this calculator.

One thousand weight diff oil in the rear?!?!? Holy moly, that would cause the back end to come around like it was on ice!

I went from the stock 5/5/5 diff setup to the 5/7/3 setup and the rear end snapped around both off power into the corner and on power out of the corner. At first I thought..A-HA!...loose is fast!...and that I would just have to learn how to drive it that way. A whole day of wasted practice and racing like the car was on ice made me think again about that theory.

I'm switching half way between the stock setup and the Drake indoor setup - 5/6/4 in the diffs and everything else (rear shocks, links & sway bar) back to the stock position. I've already had enough of trying to make the buggy dance on it's toes and would like my stable, albiet 'joost a wee bit pushy' buggy back. LOL!

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska

Want to see what i'm talking about?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=estXK2sgi3M

The best example is when I'm getting to the end of the straight. I need to start my turn in and I get nothing then I get off the gas a little and you see what happens. I almost spin and get into the fluff. I was able to save it but man did that suck.

Since this video I have change the setup back to stock. Diffs and camber links. So far I like how it handles now, much more control and less of the snap oversteer.