THE BEST LIPO MONEY CAN BUY!!!!!
11-07-2011, 04:33 PM
#76
I agree with this 100%.
The best and true answer for anyone person is what ever pack works for you. I have bought packs ranging from 150$ for one pack down to 30$ for one pack. I have well over 25 packs now and have had many others. I even take packs apart and redo the size and placement of the wires. You would be amazed on how many cheapo packs we're made really well while higher end packs were not. Not saying they are better but price wise oys definitely cheaper. Overall what ever pack works for you and your budget is the best pack(s) for you.
The best and true answer for anyone person is what ever pack works for you. I have bought packs ranging from 150$ for one pack down to 30$ for one pack. I have well over 25 packs now and have had many others. I even take packs apart and redo the size and placement of the wires. You would be amazed on how many cheapo packs we're made really well while higher end packs were not. Not saying they are better but price wise oys definitely cheaper. Overall what ever pack works for you and your budget is the best pack(s) for you.
So, true.
Remember that 98% of these pack ALL COME FROM CHINA.
Companies out there just slap there label on these packs and charge more $$.
Originally Posted by JFuel11
At the end of the day I honestly don't feel that having a top rated cell will make the difference for most in winning and loosing for most. I run Epic Revtech packs because I have a sponsorship with them and I feel the batteries are great and perform very well with a great cycle life. I have others I race with that use Nanotech packs, Thunder Power, Orion and even Low grade hobby king packs. It really depends on the amp draw and situation on rather you need that much battery or not.
Not true if your racing.
Let me explain.
As you add BOOST TIMING (dynamic timing) in your speed controller
you are adding more AMP load to the lipo pack.
WATTS (power)= AMP X VOLTS
BOOST TIMING increases amp load.
As Amps increase (load) the voltage begins to drop as even more load is add by BOOST TIMING.
Voltage is SPEED!
Simple test.
To do an actual battery test is to hook up a Watt meter to the same vehicle run a 4 minute run and see the voltage drops on each lipo pack tested.
The higher the voltage drops the worst the lipo battery.
If your cycling a lipo battery pack then you don't know anything about lipos.
Read this:
http://www.tmenet.com/pdf/LithiumBatterySecrets.doc.pdf
11-07-2011, 04:39 PM
#77
I agree with this 100%.
The best and true answer for anyone person is what ever pack works for you. I have bought packs ranging from 150$ for one pack down to 30$ for one pack. I have well over 25 packs now and have had many others. I even take packs apart and redo the size and placement of the wires. You would be amazed on how many cheapo packs we're made really well while higher end packs were not. Not saying they are better but price wise oys definitely cheaper. Overall what ever pack works for you and your budget is the best pack(s) for you.
The best and true answer for anyone person is what ever pack works for you. I have bought packs ranging from 150$ for one pack down to 30$ for one pack. I have well over 25 packs now and have had many others. I even take packs apart and redo the size and placement of the wires. You would be amazed on how many cheapo packs we're made really well while higher end packs were not. Not saying they are better but price wise oys definitely cheaper. Overall what ever pack works for you and your budget is the best pack(s) for you.
So, true.
Remember that 98% of these pack ALL COME FROM CHINA.
Companies out there just slap there label on these packs and charge more $$.
Originally Posted by JFuel11
At the end of the day I honestly don't feel that having a top rated cell will make the difference for most in winning and loosing for most. I run Epic Revtech packs because I have a sponsorship with them and I feel the batteries are great and perform very well with a great cycle life. I have others I race with that use Nanotech packs, Thunder Power, Orion and even Low grade hobby king packs. It really depends on the amp draw and situation on rather you need that much battery or not.
Not true if your racing.
Let me explain.
As you add BOOST TIMING (dynamic timing) in your speed controller
you are adding more AMP load to the lipo pack.
WATTS (power)= AMP X VOLTS
BOOST TIMING increases amp load.
As Amps increase (load) the voltage begins to drop as even more load is add by BOOST TIMING.
Voltage is SPEED!
Simple test.
To do an actual battery test is to hook up a Watt meter to the same vehicle run a 4 minute run and see the voltage drops on each lipo pack tested.
The higher the voltage drops the worst the lipo battery.
If your cycling a lipo battery pack then you don't know anything about lipos.
Read this:
http://www.tmenet.com/pdf/LithiumBatterySecrets.doc.pdf
11-07-2011, 04:45 PM
#78
Let me clearify...
So, true.
Remember that 98% of these pack ALL COME FROM CHINA.
Companies out there just slap there label on these packs and charge more $$.
This is true if your not running BOOST TIMING and your bashing.
Not true if your racing.
Let me explain.
As you add BOOST TIMING (dynamic timing) in your speed controller
you are adding more AMP load to the lipo pack.
WATTS (power)= AMP X VOLTS
BOOST TIMING increases amp load.
As Amps increase (load) the voltage begins to drop as even more load is add by BOOST TIMING.
Voltage is SPEED!
Simple test.
To do an actual battery test is to hook up a Watt meter to the same vehicle run a 4 minute run and see the voltage drops on each lipo pack tested.
The higher the voltage drops the worst the lipo battery.
If your cycling a lipo battery pack then you don't know anything about lipos.
Read this:
http://www.tmenet.com/pdf/LithiumBatterySecrets.doc.pdf
Remember that 98% of these pack ALL COME FROM CHINA.
Companies out there just slap there label on these packs and charge more $$.
This is true if your not running BOOST TIMING and your bashing.
Not true if your racing.
Let me explain.
As you add BOOST TIMING (dynamic timing) in your speed controller
you are adding more AMP load to the lipo pack.
WATTS (power)= AMP X VOLTS
BOOST TIMING increases amp load.
As Amps increase (load) the voltage begins to drop as even more load is add by BOOST TIMING.
Voltage is SPEED!
Simple test.
To do an actual battery test is to hook up a Watt meter to the same vehicle run a 4 minute run and see the voltage drops on each lipo pack tested.
The higher the voltage drops the worst the lipo battery.
If your cycling a lipo battery pack then you don't know anything about lipos.
Read this:
http://www.tmenet.com/pdf/LithiumBatterySecrets.doc.pdf
I also agree that in a boosted class I have found running a bettery battery will give you a bigger advantage over a mod class where you can always motor up.
In most cases with the boosted class it is actually more important the the lipo has the lowest internal resistance as possible more so than voltage sage because a mod motor is going to pull a larger amp draw at lower RPMs, vs a boosted setup actually applies the timing more in the upper rpm bands where the motor is at it's lowest amp draw level. This is where it is asking more of the batteries low IR and current voltage. But a low quality battery will not recover quickly form the voltage sag from coming off the corner to carry the timing as well.
I am agreeing with you just adding some more context.
Regarding cycling lipos, yes I agree there is no performance advantage, I do so to track general capacity and see how the cell are holding up so I can track performance decline over the life of the lipo, I only do this maybe once a month or so. Massive delcine in capacity is a sure sign that a lipo is getting close to end of life.
11-07-2011, 05:02 PM
#79
I agree with all points you have stated. My reference was that you need a quality cell but not always the top quality to be competitive. I have ran my share of boosted 17.5 and yes having a good quality Lipo does help, but that is getting at the higher end of the racing specktrum. On an average day an average club racer is not going to benefit by spending an addtional 50+ bucks on a pack if everything is not taken care of first (Correct Gearing, good line, good handling, lots of practice...) This was my main point.
I also agree that in a boosted class I have found running a bettery battery will give you a bigger advantage over a mod class where you can always motor up.
In most cases with the boosted class it is actually more important the the lipo has the lowest internal resistance as possible more so than voltage sage because a mod motor is going to pull a larger amp draw at lower RPMs, vs a boosted setup actually applies the timing more in the upper rpm bands where the motor is at it's lowest amp draw level. This is where it is asking more of the batteries low IR and current voltage. But a low quality battery will not recover quickly form the voltage sag from coming off the corner to carry the timing as well.
I am agreeing with you just adding some more context.
Regarding cycling lipos, yes I agree there is no performance advantage, I do so to track general capacity and see how the cell are holding up so I can track performance decline over the life of the lipo, I only do this maybe once a month or so. Massive delcine in capacity is a sure sign that a lipo is getting close to end of life.
I also agree that in a boosted class I have found running a bettery battery will give you a bigger advantage over a mod class where you can always motor up.
In most cases with the boosted class it is actually more important the the lipo has the lowest internal resistance as possible more so than voltage sage because a mod motor is going to pull a larger amp draw at lower RPMs, vs a boosted setup actually applies the timing more in the upper rpm bands where the motor is at it's lowest amp draw level. This is where it is asking more of the batteries low IR and current voltage. But a low quality battery will not recover quickly form the voltage sag from coming off the corner to carry the timing as well.
I am agreeing with you just adding some more context.
Regarding cycling lipos, yes I agree there is no performance advantage, I do so to track general capacity and see how the cell are holding up so I can track performance decline over the life of the lipo, I only do this maybe once a month or so. Massive delcine in capacity is a sure sign that a lipo is getting close to end of life.
I had to find out for myself and made a chassis dyno hooked up to my lap top and found some interesting motor/ rotor combinations.
Dynamic timing (boost timing) is more efficient then static motor timing.
If you get poor "punch" out of the corners, try increasing the Front RPM where the timing comes in.
If you have plenty of punch out of the corners, you can try reducing the RPM timing for increase in top speed.
11-07-2011, 08:49 PM
#80
I would rather run B Grade Lipos than Maxamps.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Battery.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Battery.html
03-08-2012, 06:39 PM
#81
i run stock sc non boosted, and just got a orion 90c battery a couple weeks ago , and my lap times were bout .5-.75 faster with my Gens ace 40c batteries! the Gens felt faster and punchier, thought it was just me til i looked at my lap times for the day. Had 14 seven minute runs 7 on gens and 7 on orion........Gens was faster, starting to think i should of bought 3 Gens batteries over my 1 orion
03-09-2012, 02:21 AM
#82
Tech Regular
i run stock sc non boosted, and just got a orion 90c battery a couple weeks ago , and my lap times were bout .5-.75 faster with my Gens ace 40c batteries! the Gens felt faster and punchier, thought it was just me til i looked at my lap times for the day. Had 14 seven minute runs 7 on gens and 7 on orion........Gens was faster, starting to think i should of bought 3 Gens batteries over my 1 orion
03-09-2012, 07:26 AM
#83
Another brand of lipos I would like to try as I have heard good things about them and the price is good are from promatch racing. Great warranty, and stuff I had in the past from them has always been top notch.
As for Maxamps. Unlike a lot of people I haven't had issues with there lipos. My problem with them is that the TrueC rating they use, they took down the explaination of what it means.
Having to actually contact them to find out what it means gives an uneasy feeling as it is a common thing that people think the TrueC rating is a Continuous rating, which it is not. Its a burst rating. They could have just as easily said BurstC and have avoided that issue.
Because of that, I have a hard time buying the packs.
03-09-2012, 08:36 AM
#84
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
From an absolute power stanspoint I'd rank the following-
Venom 70c (1st)
Reedy 60c (2nd)
Gens Ace 40c (3rd)
Proteck 65c (3rd)
Orion 90c (4th)
Problem w/ Venom is that they tend to puff up so might need to watch your temp with it. I was underwhelmed with Orion 90c, seriously I think Tebo, Cav and those guys might be getting a completely different batch then the rest of us. Save $120 and get 4 GensAce, IMO the best Lipo period.
Venom 70c (1st)
Reedy 60c (2nd)
Gens Ace 40c (3rd)
Proteck 65c (3rd)
Orion 90c (4th)
Problem w/ Venom is that they tend to puff up so might need to watch your temp with it. I was underwhelmed with Orion 90c, seriously I think Tebo, Cav and those guys might be getting a completely different batch then the rest of us. Save $120 and get 4 GensAce, IMO the best Lipo period.
03-09-2012, 10:36 AM
#86
My top 3 are Turnigy Nano-Tech, Gens Ace, and Zippy.
For the money any of those 3 are hard to beat.
For the money any of those 3 are hard to beat.
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