Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#1816
Thats kool your friend won the race, I would love to see when Saxton "looses it".. I've heard other similar stories like that... what was your buddy driving?
Heres a few pics of the body for my ttr S3. I will likely ONLY run it in a A main, and an important one at that. I have 4 other bodies for normal racing/practice that are beat to hell and I just repair them.
Now that I have the Serpent, I have both a really Neo Techy Elctro setup and a really Old Skool Nitro setup (which is what nitro should be all about)
The piece of lexan in the pics, is my new setup board, got at Home Depot for $16 bucks. Its super thick, very hard and stiff, and clear so I can see anything under it!! I can put stickers on it, make my own marks and Im going to make a handle for it after I sand the edges down a bit.
The bimmer body is for another ttr S3 I have, for running onroad, with foam tires with a RB S7 motor, 2 speed transmission and all the ttr hopups!!
_
Heres a few pics of the body for my ttr S3. I will likely ONLY run it in a A main, and an important one at that. I have 4 other bodies for normal racing/practice that are beat to hell and I just repair them.
Now that I have the Serpent, I have both a really Neo Techy Elctro setup and a really Old Skool Nitro setup (which is what nitro should be all about)
The piece of lexan in the pics, is my new setup board, got at Home Depot for $16 bucks. Its super thick, very hard and stiff, and clear so I can see anything under it!! I can put stickers on it, make my own marks and Im going to make a handle for it after I sand the edges down a bit.
The bimmer body is for another ttr S3 I have, for running onroad, with foam tires with a RB S7 motor, 2 speed transmission and all the ttr hopups!!
_
Then Ty started practicing 30 hours a week and those of us such as my friend who have families and jobs had no chance of catching him! He just doesn't make any mistakes!
The closest i could ever get to Ty was 2 laps down in both Buggy/Truggy 30 minute A Mains in 2009 and staying on the same lap as him in a 6 minute qualifier in 2011!
That is awesome seeing that S3 body.....I love the memories!
#1818
My serpent is up for sale if anyone is looking for one. Great conditionfor 425 shipped pm or text me 404 606 9709
#1820
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
What receiver are you using? I can EASILY fit my RadioPost 5 channel in there,
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rface-Receiver
plus my antenna wire coiled up, plus my excess transponder and esc wires coiled up no problem. I could easily fit my Futaba and Spektrums receivers as well (i'm selling those though)
What i don't understand is where the antenna is located. I've tried stock serpent and a racers edge tubes, and both broke immediately. Now I'm coiling my antenna wire up and leaving it in the radio box. However, I would like to use my LED antennas from commonsenserc as they are super cool. Kind of bums me out though I can't buy that antenna lid by itself, I have to pay $50 for the whole radio tray etc..
Are others breaking there antenna tubes as well?
Last edited by Vortexted; 03-21-2012 at 06:28 PM.
#1822
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Lube on center diff gear and pinion
I have a question, do you guys put the lube on the center diff gear and pinion since they are metal gears meshing together? I did for my front and rear transmission but not the center as the manual did not show to.
I'm thinking it would be dust magnet.
Also is it necessary to change the diff fluids after a few race days of breaking it in? I'm not in the mood to change it so hopefully I can get away with it for a while.
I'm thinking it would be dust magnet.
Also is it necessary to change the diff fluids after a few race days of breaking it in? I'm not in the mood to change it so hopefully I can get away with it for a while.
#1823
oil changes!!
the first few runs during and right after break in is really the most crucial time of a diffs life to change the fluids.. the metal wears in slightly and contaminates the oil, making it dirtier (?) than under normal wear when the diffs have fully run in.
its similar to running in a real engine ... say like a twin turbo charged rx7 with a fresh rotary build... the first 500 and 1,000 miles are crucial for oil changes...
I would replace the fluid now for all diffs, then you can wait 2-3 more race times if its really a chore
I wouldnt bother with grease on the center diff... just make sure you get the gear mesh set properly. Try to see if you can get it quiet, without getting too far out .. or in. as in not too much backlash or tightness.
heres a pic of my FD
_
its similar to running in a real engine ... say like a twin turbo charged rx7 with a fresh rotary build... the first 500 and 1,000 miles are crucial for oil changes...
I would replace the fluid now for all diffs, then you can wait 2-3 more race times if its really a chore
I wouldnt bother with grease on the center diff... just make sure you get the gear mesh set properly. Try to see if you can get it quiet, without getting too far out .. or in. as in not too much backlash or tightness.
heres a pic of my FD
_
#1824
got hand grips?!
http://www.amazon.com/Cap-Barbell-HH.../dp/B0040XNOUG
use these for a couple weeks and you'll feel like Rambo when changing your diffs!
and your girlfriend wont mind either!!!!
use these for a couple weeks and you'll feel like Rambo when changing your diffs!
and your girlfriend wont mind either!!!!
#1825
I have a question, do you guys put the lube on the center diff gear and pinion since they are metal gears meshing together? I did for my front and rear transmission but not the center as the manual did not show to.
I'm thinking it would be dust magnet.
Also is it necessary to change the diff fluids after a few race days of breaking it in? I'm not in the mood to change it so hopefully I can get away with it for a while.
I'm thinking it would be dust magnet.
Also is it necessary to change the diff fluids after a few race days of breaking it in? I'm not in the mood to change it so hopefully I can get away with it for a while.
#1826
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Ok thanks guys. Well I decided to tear into the center diff to take a look and seal them up anyway since it was leaking just a little. The front and rear don't leak at all. yeah it was a bit dirty, and the fluid was a little low. put some RTV on the orings and some bearing grease on the outdrives shaft. Although now I read some ppl are using Mobil synthetic oil instead. I'll buy that next time instead of the high temp RTV.
It was a good thing I looked into it. My pinion gear had come loose and moved down the motor shaft and was grinding into the metal motor mount. OUCH! I think I forgot to clean the pinion grub screw with motor spray when I installed and sure enough the blue loctite came loose.
I knew this car was making a lot of gear noise and felt like it was dragging that last day at the track. Now I know why.
ARRRGgghhh...I really don't want to tear into the front and rear diffs but I see your point about changing the oil after break in. I guess I'll just give a race night tomorrow and wrench.
I have 3 cars that need diff work
graphite spray, I've never heard of this. This must be it.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051
A dry lubricant, then I could just use this Trak Power dry lube
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Lubricant-4oz
It was a good thing I looked into it. My pinion gear had come loose and moved down the motor shaft and was grinding into the metal motor mount. OUCH! I think I forgot to clean the pinion grub screw with motor spray when I installed and sure enough the blue loctite came loose.
I knew this car was making a lot of gear noise and felt like it was dragging that last day at the track. Now I know why.
ARRRGgghhh...I really don't want to tear into the front and rear diffs but I see your point about changing the oil after break in. I guess I'll just give a race night tomorrow and wrench.
I have 3 cars that need diff work
graphite spray, I've never heard of this. This must be it.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051
A dry lubricant, then I could just use this Trak Power dry lube
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Lubricant-4oz
Last edited by Vortexted; 03-22-2012 at 02:13 AM.
#1827
atl darrick- pm sent
#1828
i went outdoor testing today and my car was really good could use a lil shock work but it super smooth and good
#1829
But all this about pinions/spurs ... plastic vs metal... it all seems so fragile and Im beginning to think that there may be just as much "setup" time and "maintenance" time with these electric buggy's as with nitro.... maybe almost ... heh.
I got my groove with nitro, know all the things to look for, and what wears and I replace it before its an issue. In a 20 or 30 min main, if something breaks after 20 mins of hard racing, Im like "well, it _was_ 20 mins!!"
I just HATE not knowing whats going to be an issue... I still have radio and batteries to think about what setup will work best for me. Never owned any Lipos, and I see elec shit in the trash at my local track all the time.
Guess Im gonna be going back to Newbie Skool soon
#1830
Hey porkChop.. whats your pinion/spur setup? What do you do for maintenance and how often do you replace them, i.e. how many races/packs do they last.
Whats your technique for setting the gear mesh, just a thin piece of paper or something else like card stock of some kind?
Whats your technique for setting the gear mesh, just a thin piece of paper or something else like card stock of some kind?