Hobbywing combo's work well for a budget set up

Speed passion also has a affordable combo

hi everybody, my friend lent me his 811e for a competition. I would like to know the adjustment shock and diff for a rought track ...

old nitro convert an brusless thanks martin.

the set up stock for nitro buggy is good or not:confused:

I don't know of any setups using a nitro conversation but I would go through the setups on the serpent site for the original nitro buggy. If you click on the vehicle it will show setups.. This is on the serpent site not serpent America.

that's why I'm asking you because I'm sure that among you is trying to set it up

Hi, a friend is about to buy my eco and I'm about to pull the trigger on a BE 2.0 to complete the fleet :tire:. A few questions:
1. Hard servo saver spring, needed as with other serpents?
2. Have a Tekin 1900/RX8: fits no problem? Gearing?
3. Webbed bladders yes or can wait?
4. Cool Upgrades?
Thanks!

Servo spring yes, tekin 2050 so u can run small pinion and keep motor closer to center, bladder can wait, option 2 steering arm and 2.7 rear sway bar and probably want 46 composite spur gear

Thanks!
Going to wait for someone with a 1900 for gearing. Option 2 ok, was going to order a 2.7 for the nitro buggy so will add 2 to the cart. How many teeth is the stock spur gear ?

46

has any one ever bent for broke a shock shaft on there buggy

1. I am not using one, but I have been told it is one of the better upgrades.
2. I am running 15/46 currently with an IX8 and feel like I am right with everyone else. 16/46 got too hot for my comfort (~170*motor temp after 10 min))
3. I am still new to offroad, but shocks and springs seem to be where the majority of the tuning is done. Personally, I would do those first, so that all of your setup changes are consistent moving forward.
4. Cool upgrades are the carbon fiber battery straps available from a user here. I also did the new sway bar holders and through other parts cars ended up with the light weight wheel nuts and hard shock caps. I see a lot of people running the metal front tower for durability and keeping the carbon rear. Bent aluminum will finish a race, broke carbon won't. I also broke my first part, which was the front chassis support brace (not the rear that everyone talks about).

Weekend was interesting. Had a bigger 2-day race and had the BE and my old converted nitro chassis out. I ran the BE all day Saturday, running respectable times and fairly consistent laps. Track conditions deteriorated over the day a bit, and while the car was a little loose in the back, was still feeling pretty good with it. After qual's were over, brought out the 1.0 conversion car. The thing felt great. Was very consistent, and could get much more aggressive with it and still keep it under control. It wasn't really faster, but much more consistent on the fast side of my laps. Sunday arrived with triple A mains. I ran the BE in A1 and A2 with a 5th and 7th place finish, and then decided to bring out the 1.0. A3 started rough, and was shuffled to the back. Clocking lap 1 in 12th place, the car felt good again, with some rear end wiggle, but more control and confidence then the BE. Worked my way up to a 5th place finish by the end.I could turn a faster fast lap with the BE, but could turn more consistent laps with the 1.0. Both with 1900 T8 motors, same gearing, IX8 in the BE and a Hobbywing 150a in the 1.0.

Personally never broke one but I seen one broke before with a direct hit from another buggy.

1. I built mine with the stock one, doesn't seem to be absolutely needed but I did tighten it a hair more than the directions indicated.

2. I have a 2050kv in mine but with Hobbywing ESC. I geared it 16/46 which I understand is a little tall compared to others that run the 2050. Your gearing will depend on driving style, track & environmental conditions. Start with the 16 included with the kit and see where you are at 2 min into the run and then at 5 min.

3. Can wait.

4. Option 2 and Option 1 steering rack is what I would buy first personally. Not really upgrades but nice to have in the pit box for tuning.

Ya, have been running a 1900 ThunderPower. Feels just about right at 16/46. If I need a little more speed there is plenty of room for a little more timing.

^^^ thanks!
Found a new servo saver spring and option 2 ackerman on my pitbox!

I couldn't find the alum. servo horn (25T) online, desoto only ships ups or fedex and that alone cost more than the part. So have to wait for that. Is the plastic one good?