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-   -   Serpent 811E Buggy Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/517713-serpent-811e-buggy-thread.html)

mrnizzles 03-26-2012 12:16 PM

no, no, it's still a good build!
 
4 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the contact info for Desoto Racing... I'll give them a shout for a new part.

I did find the inserts on Amain eventually, looking for part number rather than just browsing through pages, which seem to "re-list" items I saw on previous pages. but $9-$10 bucks for 2 inserts!!! damn...

Photos

You can just barely see the metal "bur" inside the insert - the dark shadow is the best my camera could focus. It prevents the pin from going through. I tried filing it, but there is allot more there and its hard to get it all down.

Also, when assembling the diff case, I decided to leave out the 3rd silver Philips (?) button head screw as I felt it rubbing just a smidge on the ring gear once the diff is installed. I think these "odd looking" screws (which one is not like the others in this kit!) really just hold the bearing in place?

I made sure the screw was fully seated, but if it were to back out just a tad, OR if I had any flex from a hard hit/crash, it could mesh up the ring gear or pinion.

so I think 2 of those Philips is good enuff. Would love to see some other means of holding the bearings in place, surely anything could be better than Philips button head screws?

Overall, the build is still great and going very well... love the tight tolerances of everything.

_

PrestonG 03-26-2012 12:31 PM


Originally Posted by mrnizzles (Post 10518659)
Thanks for the contact info for Desoto Racing... I'll give them a shout for a new part.

I did find the inserts on Amain eventually, looking for part number rather than just browsing through pages, which seem to "re-list" items I saw on previous pages. but $9-$10 bucks for 2 inserts!!! damn...

Photos

You can just barely see the metal "bur" inside the insert - the dark shadow is the best my camera could focus. It prevents the pin from going through. I tried filing it, but there is allot more there and its hard to get it all down.

Also, when assembling the diff case, I decided to leave out the 3rd silver Philips (?) button head screw as I felt it rubbing just a smidge on the ring gear once the diff is installed. I think these "odd looking" screws (which one is not like the others in this kit!) really just hold the bearing in place?

I made sure the screw was fully seated, but if it were to back out just a tad, OR if I had any flex from a hard hit/crash, it could mesh up the ring gear or pinion.

so I think 2 of those Philips is good enuff. Would love to see some other means of holding the bearings in place, surely anything could be better than Philips button head screws?

Overall, the build is still great and going very well... love the tight tolerances of everything.

_

Most cars don't even have anything to hold the bearing in place. Since I managed to strip a phillips head right away, I decided to drill it out and ditch them all together on my build.

mrnizzles 03-26-2012 03:42 PM

Good to go!
 
Contacted Serpent America, and they're sending me a replacement! So fast too.

And prices are cheaper on their site than Amain or Absolute :cool:

bronc4now 03-26-2012 04:05 PM


Originally Posted by mrnizzles (Post 10518659)
Thanks for the contact info for Desoto Racing... I'll give them a shout for a new part.

I did find the inserts on Amain eventually, looking for part number rather than just browsing through pages, which seem to "re-list" items I saw on previous pages. but $9-$10 bucks for 2 inserts!!! damn...

Photos

You can just barely see the metal "bur" inside the insert - the dark shadow is the best my camera could focus. It prevents the pin from going through. I tried filing it, but there is allot more there and its hard to get it all down.

Also, when assembling the diff case, I decided to leave out the 3rd silver Philips (?) button head screw as I felt it rubbing just a smidge on the ring gear once the diff is installed. I think these "odd looking" screws (which one is not like the others in this kit!) really just hold the bearing in place?

I made sure the screw was fully seated, but if it were to back out just a tad, OR if I had any flex from a hard hit/crash, it could mesh up the ring gear or pinion.

so I think 2 of those Philips is good enuff. Would love to see some other means of holding the bearings in place, surely anything could be better than Philips button head screws?

Overall, the build is still great and going very well... love the tight tolerances of everything.

_

I also ran into that problem so I took out one screw same as you ring side ,2 should be plenty to hold a bearing in place ..My problem was I striped them just trying to screw them down so next time I do my diff I'm putting in different screws, hex head

RCmayor 03-26-2012 04:43 PM

Those screws that hold the bearings in are soft metal, be sure to use a good #1 phillips driver to put them in. Once you get them in as far as they will go, back them out and use a 5/32" drill bit or so to cut out any plastic "bloom" that comes up. After that the screw will go all the way down.

RCmayor 03-26-2012 04:46 PM


Originally Posted by PrestonG (Post 10518710)
Most cars don't even have anything to hold the bearing in place. Since I managed to strip a phillips head right away, I decided to drill it out and ditch them all together on my build.

This isn't most cars... Most cars have the bearings trapped between the pinion and drive shaft coupler and this keeps them in place. Without the screws the whole assembly can be pushed out and in freely.

mrnizzles 03-26-2012 05:10 PM

yeah, the screws are definitely necessary.. my old skool ttr S3 does it the old way, "capturing" the bearing like you described...

I will try the method you mentioned, see if I can use that third screw in the ring gear position, or possibly a different screw.

Would really like to make sure that bearing and the whole assembly doesnt move back and forth... that would be bad for the gear mesh :weird:

bronc4now 03-26-2012 06:49 PM


Originally Posted by RCmayor (Post 10519765)
Those screws that hold the bearings in are soft metal, be sure to use a good #1 phillips driver to put them in. Once you get them in as far as they will go, back them out and use a 5/32" drill bit or so to cut out any plastic "bloom" that comes up. After that the screw will go all the way down.

good tip !
Has any one found replacements screws ? where ?

rcjunky10 03-26-2012 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by bronc4now (Post 10520357)
good tip !
Has any one found replacements screws ? where ?

Drill and tap a 3mmx4mm button head screw. Works like a champ and no more pesky Philips head screws.

KIK 03-26-2012 08:00 PM


Originally Posted by PrestonG (Post 10514823)
With its unique design, not sure how you could possibly do an aluminum one :)

I use Hotbodies aluminum horn. Has the correct offset.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...o/6eb012ff.jpg

mrnizzles 03-26-2012 09:18 PM

hmmm... so your nut never hits your drive shaft?

:batman:

JamesReilly 03-26-2012 09:24 PM


Originally Posted by KIK (Post 10520753)
I use Hotbodies aluminum horn. Has the correct offset.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...o/6eb012ff.jpg

+1 I use the same thing works perfect. No it doesn't hit the drive shaft.

Honu 03-26-2012 11:27 PM

That's the one I use. :nod: :tire:

mjh4828 03-27-2012 09:18 AM

Bearing screws
 
I just sanded the screw head down on the one screw behind the diff gear. Easy to do. The metal is soft and the cavity in the screw is still deep enough to screw in with no problems.

RCmayor 03-27-2012 10:46 AM

I think I'm gonna like these ebuggies. Lots of power. With in 5 seconds on the street I blew the front tires off and they headed down the street in front of the car. lol


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