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Old 09-28-2004, 09:16 PM   #1
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Default RC10 Factory Team GT???

hey guys

looking into getting a nitro stadium truck, i am only familiar with electric on-road stuff, have always thought dirt is for worms but after driving a friends off-road gas truck i now want one

i am a TA guy and want to get the GT, but i heard they may be coming out with a newer version

is there anything newer right now then the factory team gt or is that the NEW ONE???

my local club races .12 and i also need a starter box, any suggestions on a box and .12 engine

what about a steering and throttle servo, i use JR stuff and would like to stick with JR servo's

any help would be great

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Old 09-28-2004, 09:53 PM   #2
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gt factory team is the most current at least for now.

for steering try to get around 100oz+ of torque with good speed for throtle around 70+ with good speed this should get the job done.

for the motor their are a lot of good choices. I have had good luck with OS but you may want to see what they are running localy so you can share tuning advice.
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:23 PM   #3
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arent we all T&A guys?

seriously though, as far as i know the FT rc10gt is the current hotness. even if they do come out with something new, its a tough act to beat. personally, i like having a pull start. ive never gotten a shoulder ache using OS engines. they fire up pretty reliably.

as for the servos, a good 100+ torque servo is great for steering, as with most off road 2wds. honestly, i use the futaba s3003 for brake and throttle and its been pretty trusty. its powerful enough to lock the brakes up at a moments notice and ive had no reliability issues with it. *knock on wood*. the only thing i would ask for is somthing a bit faster, but thats just me. its still plenty responsive.

oh, and a great first upgrade is the crescenzi GT brake. i got to drive a gt with one the other day and it was unreal, especially for only 30 bucks.
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Old 09-29-2004, 04:39 PM   #4
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Is your servo have metal gears?

Last edited by Sofast-NT; 09-29-2004 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 09-29-2004, 04:43 PM   #5
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Beetlebz-Have you had trouble with your truck pushing goin into turns?
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Old 09-29-2004, 09:24 PM   #6
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my servo doesnt have metal gears.

my truck pushed a little in the turns, so i threw thicker shock oil (35wt, silver springs) up front and threw losi directionals on the front with the bevels on the inside. grabs a little better, not perfect, but with some throttle finesse and no smaller than a 66 tooth spur, its not usually a problem.

i also run my diff tight so i can spin through turns. with a 66t spur she flies out of corners like she was on a rail

normally i run the truck with a 64t spur. with the losi tires on the front and the heavier oil, push is very controllable.
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Old 09-30-2004, 06:17 PM   #7
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Chris:

As stated, the FTGT is the current truck for the time being. For servos, look for a digital for the steering. The torque ratings others have suggested are fine. Even the 8450 which is a little less would be fine for a GT. An analog servo for the throttle/brake is what you want. I would say 40 oz min with a 6v transit speed of .16 or better. I know you want a jr servo, but for comparison purposes, I have used a Hitec 525 on throttle for 4 years with 0 problems. It was good enough for a podium finish in open gas truck at the Reedy Truck Race of Champions as well as a victory in Sport truck at the Silverstate Nitro Challenge.
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Old 10-01-2004, 06:52 AM   #8
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What are the conditions you plan to run the truck in?

I would personally stop by the track and see what is popular there and how the RC10GT's are fairing.

From what I have been hearing from various racers, if the track gets loamy and rutted up, the RC10GT is excellent in that element.

If the track however is blue groove or something similar ( smooth, etc ) then the XXX-NT has been the better vehicle out of the box.

The factory guys trucks aren't using the same stuff that you get in the Factory Team Kit. They have some modifications on there to take advantage of new technology, namely what the T4 uses.

As far as how hard it would be to do these changes I don't know. People on various boards have done these changes and you should be able to find someone who can coach you on it.

So in conclusion, stop by the track and see how the AE GT drivers are doing versus the Losi guys and also talk with them candidly about how the truck handles, any quirks, etc.


PS- For servos, look for Metal Gears, high torque ( 100+ is my requirement ) and low transit time ( .15 and below ) .
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Old 10-01-2004, 12:57 PM   #9
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there isnt one wonder car per application. set up determines how well a car does on a given track, not the car itself. dont see who likes what for any particular track, find out who has good luck with their cars, whos holds up well, who likes each cars handling charactoristics and why, and of course of you can, drive a couple to get a feel.

IMHO the associated is a more stable truck and is capable of doing well in most any conditions, where as the losi drake tends to be a little tougher to drive, yet has more race potential.

in experienced hands the cars are pretty damn close in performance no matter how you look at it.

and FTGT isnt WAY different from those used by the FT guys. sure the FT guys have all the latest toys and parts, but for the most part the FTGT is close enough to get the job done. and there are people like dave crescenzi who make great race quality hop ups for the GT truck.

is FTGT with a crescenzi brake and some pro line rubber is a VERY formidable beast in any situation. the difference between the GT and the Losi will more often than not come down to the driver.
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Old 10-10-2004, 06:01 PM   #10
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I'd say the GT is the way to go. You won't find a vehicle that is more accessible and easy to work on. Loctite the appropriate screws and it'll never rattle apart. And once ya learn how, anything people say they don't like about the GT can be adjusted out of it to your liking. I love how people say it doesn't jump level. Well, ride height, how you approach the jump, and throttle/brake inputs all have more to do with that than the GT itself.

Anyhow, I run all the T4 parts on my truck and love it. Not that it was bad to begin with. It's relatively cheap to do. You can buy the parts at the hobby shop, tower, or here http://www.rc10gthobby.com/ . All the parts are really are the B4 cvd stub axels and spacer for the rear. And for the front, you use B4 inline axels,B4 steering block, B4 castor blocks, and B4 pin to hold the axel in. I actually just use a outside rear hinge pin for it. You do have to drill the holes to 1/8 inch in the axel, and castor block. Very simple to do. The cresenzi site sells both widening kits already made up for a good price.

The GT handles any track great in stock form, if you set it up properly. The widening kits just makes it more stable on rough stuff, and jump landings.

Last edited by jbrow1; 10-11-2004 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 10-10-2004, 07:31 PM   #11
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Default Factory Team RC GT 10

Chris08527 You have a PM
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Old 10-10-2004, 11:04 PM   #12
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Current recommended factory driver mods for Ae Gt


Ft
losi axle in ft # 1022( you have cut & drill new pin hole in the axle, sounds hard to do, but is`nt....)
Gt 30 degree caster block, cut for ball stud king pin....
add 4 .060 shims for bump steer on steering knuckle

rear
T-4 rear axle with T-4 dogbones( no Cvd), with the standard Gt rear hub.....


I`m running my Gt this way, as is most of the team drivers are doing.


Its the best the Gt has ever been..... handles like my T-4 .

Heck !
Maybe even better....
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:41 PM   #13
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When you use the losi axels, don't you have to mill down the shoulder of the axel, to be legal width? I've read about others who've done that and went to the B4 parts and liked it better. I really don't think most people would even notice the difference btw. the two different setups. I use 20 degree castor blocks with the B4 setup.

As for dogbones instead of cvd's, how come? Is it b/c there is less backlash in the bones? A really good older racer told me the dog bones are actually smoother. Personally I just like cvd's b/c they never fall out and get lost.

Last edited by jbrow1; 10-11-2004 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:08 PM   #14
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good call on the CVDs. ive yet to hit somthing and have to chase my dog bones down the street lol
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:22 PM   #15
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CVD's bind at the joint to create more forward bite, and cause the truck to square up faster. Dogbones operate more freely which allows the car to handle rough sections of the track easier, and the truck will have more sidebite and roll onto the power more smoothly.
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