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Old 10-12-2004, 12:17 AM   #16
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Default Associated RC10GT central

well, couldnt hurt to have a central place to post questions n stuff about the GT for people... well... me....

is anyone firmiliar with using the B4 or Losi style "true spin" washers on their CVDs?

if i tighten my wheel lugs anymore, the CVDs bind. but as is the cross pin strips the inside of the rims out! any insight from fellow GTers would be greatly appriciated.
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Old 10-12-2004, 12:20 AM   #17
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aye, and you dont have to pull dogbones apart twice a day to clean the gunk out of them. thats the only part i hate about them.

someone should invent CVD boots to keep them clean.....
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Old 10-12-2004, 02:54 AM   #18
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Jbrow1..

You don`t have to mill the losi axle for the Gt....

there`s a better way.....

How to modified losi axle#1022 for ae Gt

#1 use a dremel and a cut-off wheel .......
#2 cut the axle right down the middle of the existing pin hole.
#3 use the cut off wheel & grind the end of the axle flush ,untill you do not see any of the remaining pin hole.
#4 drill out the Gt steering knucke with a 1/4 drill bit.
#5 install the axle on the steering knuckle( be carefull not to install it backwards)
#6 use a handdrill ( not the dremel) & a 1/8 drill bit.....
#7 drill out the pin hole with the axle installed in the steering knuckle.

purpose for doing this> wider ft end, for more steering & stabilty
note> use 4 to 5 .060 shim for adjusting bump steer to neutral...


Gt caster block mod

#1 use a 30 degree Gt caster block
#2 used the cut off wheel & trim flush the top part ( where the ball stud mounts)
#3 use the cut off wheel & bevel the top inside corner of the block( this allows the camber link to not bottom out on the block)
#4 use the ft ball kingpin thats used on the B-3 or T-3,
used two .030 shims on the topside of the pin, one .030 on the bottom.....
reason for doing this> longer ft camber link, for more steering....
*plus you can adjust the ballstud for fine tuning the steering...

*T-4 axle & T-4 dogbones

reason for the mod> wider rear track for more traction & stabilty



dogbones verses the Cvd

dogbone has more SIDE traction & FORWARD bite coming out of the turn...

If your pushing, Cvd may be better.....

Neither one sould be consider the best.....
Both work when used for the conditions that they work best on...

Try it..........
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Old 10-12-2004, 04:20 AM   #19
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Wild Cherry

Very interesting stuff. Which factory guys are using this set up, when i talked to Richard Sexton this summer he told me he ran all stock, he tried the stuff Tebo had on his car and didnt like it. So he switched back to all stock.

Im always up for something new, thanks sharing.


later
Dave mac
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Old 10-12-2004, 09:59 AM   #20
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That's why Jared Tebo is national champion...

The only other truck at the Nationals that had those same modifications was Kyle Skidmore..who finished 2nd.
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Old 10-12-2004, 12:21 PM   #21
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DMac ,

I think the standard set-up works best for bumpy & loose surfaces.....

The standard set-up is`nt all that bad,it performs very good in most conditions....


By da these modifications came from Tebo...(however I did get the information from a couple other Ae drivers 2nd hand)

Other Ae drivers that uses these mods. >Scott Brown

I have use both the standard set-up & these mods...
For now I do not what to switch back to the standard Gt....


Aaron,
Tebo would of won with or with out these changes.....
His Ae is very fast.....
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Old 10-12-2004, 05:02 PM   #22
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Wild Cherry- so with the castor block mod you are talking about, it sounds like the ball stud is mounted vertical? That would be more adjustable right? As mine is now with the B4 castor block, I have two adjustment holes for my outside camber link. My GT is already fully widened with all the B4 parts. If it wasn't I'd give the losi axels a try.

Dave Mac- Aren't you running the B4 widening parts? I thought you were by now. I just found these forums, pretty cool site.

I never thought the stock setup was bad to begin with, but with the widened setup, I love just blowing thru washboard sections. They used to make the truck unpredictable, so I'd slow down a bit for them. Widened, it just soaks up everything.
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Old 10-12-2004, 05:06 PM   #23
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jbrow, is that the same principal of the crescenzi GT widening kit? supposedly it makes the front the same width as the B4. if so, ill check that out.

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/gt-widening.htm

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Old 10-12-2004, 05:37 PM   #24
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Beetlebiz,
Yes, what I'm talking about is what Dave sells. Both front and back. I just got my own parts b/c Dave was out of stock. He sells the kits for a very good price, and everything is predrilled and all you have to do is put em on. If you do any racing I'd definately get a set. If you do write what you think about them here.

Also you mentioned cvd boots earlier. They do make booties for them. You can get them from Cresenzi, or http://affordablenitrotech.com/ I'm not sure they're really what your looking for though if you are thinking just for keeping clean purposes. If you email Dan at the link I'm sure he'll send you a pic of what they look like.
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Old 10-12-2004, 05:43 PM   #25
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hopefully sometime this week my LHS is getting me some boots to try out. im just tired of the pin falling out lol fortunately it hasnt fallen out completely.... yet. if ive learned anything running nitro its that NOTHING stays clean unless its in a plastic baggie or balloon lol i just check em periodically and clean them if i need to.

once i get a new steering servo and rear shocks (ouch this is getting to be expensive!) im going to give dave a call and get the front and rear kits. i just like the losi style washer so i dont have to worry about binding the bearings
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Old 10-12-2004, 05:48 PM   #26
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Jeff

whats up bro!

I use only the t4 axles in front and back.
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Old 10-12-2004, 05:59 PM   #27
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AW I here you!

Wild Cherry, very cool I have been wondering what his mods were. I also herd he mad the camber link in the back longer. Have to use a differnt bulkhead, not sure of the details, or if its true.

Thanks
Dave mac




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Old 10-12-2004, 06:46 PM   #28
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I've heard about people drilling different holes to make a new rear camber mount. Just never heard about getting a different bulkhead part. If the front mount does go vertical in the losi mod, it would be easier and more adjustable to just use shims under the ball stud. Be kinda cool. Might look into that.

Dave you should get the rest of the parts for the front mod. I don't think without the castor blocks and steering arm from the B4 you're gaining any width in the front. I think the front is what really helps in the rough stuff. Man I wish I could race my GT in the winter!! This sux.

Oh yeah, beetlebz, you can just use heavy duty heat shring tubing around the cvd pin. Mine's never fallen out with it. Also where the little grub screw hits the pin, dremel a little flat spot on the pin.
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Old 10-12-2004, 11:43 PM   #29
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Wild Cherry - Not even close..but anyway.
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Old 10-13-2004, 01:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
Wild Cherry - Not even close..but anyway.

When he gets the new Gt( this spring) he`ll bee even fasta....

Look`s like the losi bro-ham`s are gona have a bit of work ahead of um this comming season...
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