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Old 02-19-2005, 04:45 PM   #211
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Originally posted by beetlebz
stock spur gear is 66t 32p, and is 3.89 at tower. the manufacturer stock number from kimbrough is #249. personally i like to go down a couple teeth on the spur, 64 or so and on really big tracks i go up one on the clutch bell. it would take a pretty tight track for me to use the stock gearing.

for my GT i like the good ole fashioned crowd pleazer body from pro-line. theyre tough, good lookin, and easy to paint, although id almost prefer if pro-line made an interceptor body (the stock t4 body) so they would all match, but pretty much anything by pro line will do ya fine.
Sort of new to the GT. What do you mean go up one on the clutch bell? Do you mean the pinion?
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Old 02-19-2005, 04:57 PM   #212
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I heard you had to mount the crowd pleazer a certain way is that true..?
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Old 02-19-2005, 05:10 PM   #213
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yup...the clutchbell is the nitro equivalent to a pinion gear. The round thing that your "pinion" is on is what your clutch shoes are in. When it spins, the clutch shoes get pushed onto the inside of it, thus turning your spur gear.
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Old 02-19-2005, 08:08 PM   #214
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yep, and actually i meant one DOWN on the clutch bell, for a little more top end speed. in stock trim the gearing is a little too short for me. i used to run a 64 and 62 tooth spur gear, but i discovered that with the crescenzi clutch nut (www.rc10gthobby.com) changing the clutch bell is easier than changing the spur gear

and no, if you get the crowd pleazer made for your GT it fits just fine. its got little pimples where you need to reem the holes for the body posts. just make sure you get the FT one if you have a FT truck. the longer chassis will fit the posts of the stock GT, but the front wheel wells wont line up. is an asthetic thing, but thats huge for me lol
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Old 02-19-2005, 09:24 PM   #215
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Don't paint the body before fitting the body though. The holes are generally a bit off on all bodies I've found. I cut the body enough it'll fit on the body mounts, then use a sharpie marker to dot all the holes where I want them if they are off. I personally like the gmc sierra body. I don't like how the crowd pleaser hangs so close to the front bumper.
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Old 02-20-2005, 01:54 PM   #216
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aye i just got fed up with the body interfering with the bumper on my GT and took the thing right off. no ill side effects yet lol

some good tips on mounting a GT body.....
first, remove the muffler so you can get a good clean fit on the truck. then, on the inside of the body, put a couple squares of double sided tape over the nubbins for the post holes. line up the nubbins on the front mounts and press down so the tape holds them in place. use a sharpie to mark the rear post holes (if the nubbins dont line up or if there arent any) and paint.

ive tried a bunch of times to reem the post holes for a fit before painting, but it ALWAYS bleeds through the other side, even when i tape over the holes

once i figured out that the alum chassis' come in two different legnths my body mounting problems disappeared
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Old 02-20-2005, 05:31 PM   #217
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Quote:
once i figured out that the alum chassis' come in two different legnths my body mounting problems disappeared
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Old 02-20-2005, 07:29 PM   #218
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Speaking of the two different length chassis, can anyone measure their Factory Team chassis for me? I'm not too sure which chassis I have and I haven't gotten much help from the other forum I'm on.

I know its asking a lot but if anyone just happens to be working on their truck, it'd be much appreciated

Thanks!
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Old 02-20-2005, 08:05 PM   #219
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The rtr one has a different front bumper, and the aluminum on the front of the chassis actually kicks up at a 90 degree angle. Where the one on the team just kind of curves up a bit, and the bumper bolts on from the outermost front bulkhead screws.
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Old 02-21-2005, 12:19 AM   #220
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yeah, the two physically look different. i think jbrow covered it pretty well though.

ill measure it next time i take it out (tomorrow probably)
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:48 AM   #221
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Look at the mounts for the blue tube braces at the front of your GT. If the holes for the tube mounts are 5/16" apart you have the short chassis. If the holes are an inch and a 1/16th apart you have the FT long chassis.

Jeff
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:43 AM   #222
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cool, so if the front kicks up at about 45 degrees I have the factory team chassis right? My bumper mounts to the holes on the furthest outside of the chassis too.

I don't know about the nosetube brace mounts though. Mine are about an inch apart?
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:45 AM   #223
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doh! nevermind about the nosetubes! I didn't read the inch and 1/16th part

woohoo! I have the FT chassis!

thanks guys!

don't you love buying stuff used and finding out you got the "good" parts?
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Old 02-21-2005, 04:00 PM   #224
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Thats always nice!
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Old 02-23-2005, 11:25 AM   #225
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lol my gt was my first "real" rc car over a year ago, and i was thrilled to find out it had the FT chassis when i got it. what i didnt realize at the time, was the tranny was shot, the rear CVDs had been replaced with dogbones/axles, all the screw heads on the bottom of the chassis had been slotted, and the chassis was bent. lol doh! ive put enough $ into it to build a whole new one 3 times over, but shes my baby. all i need is the GT brake to make it a dream for maintinence, the stock brake is the only thing i hate.

oh, and the kit i bought it from had real genuine factory team zipties holding the muffler down, and a couple as shock preload spacers.
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