littlevette

iTrader: (22)

well lets hope so. but, if there is a company out there that could pull it off it's AMAIN. like i said, i hope they don't go overboard and greedy with the prices. that'll be yokomo's swan song if they do.

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

did anyone catch the other new item from jc, along with the new finnisher body ad?

mes

Nice find! I'd thought those werde some Yokomo Hot Laps TR-Whatever (B-Max4II kit tyres, look very similar with a Y-pattern) and that it was weird not using JC tyres for the pics...

mes

This is a new Azarashi wing, but is the body in the pic also from Azarashi?

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

i think that link died mes. i checked on team azarashi's website and saw some bodies that could be a possible canidate for the bmax2.



or it could be something like this b4 body that they currently have.

mes

Try to refresh the link, I had some issues with it, too.
The bodies above are from BugleBoy Racing AFAIK. The Aralgo is really nice, just like the Daedalus X12 body on the Azarashi blog.

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

i got it this time. not bad looking wing.

mes

Some new pics of the mid-motor car on oOple. The B-Max2M is supposed to hit the shelves before X-mas.

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

are any of guys having problems with your diffs, or even the slipper clutch spring?

mcheroke

iTrader: (15)

Those are the new JC pressure point tires. I don't think they are out quite yet for 1/10 buggy. My buddy runs the short course version and they work great on indoor clay

NoobRCDriver

iTrader: (13)

The left side is deeper then the right. I had the nut on the wrong side.

When i build mine, i had to replace the idler gear. Something was wrong with it, my diff wasn't smooth.

mes

Everything fine so far!

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

the reason i ask is because lately the spare parts i've bought are a little different than the original parts in the kit. for example, the thrust spring from the kit is taller than the thrust spring you get from a spares package. if you use the smaller spring, this could be a problem to setting the diff correctly. which would bring down the t-nut's ears, between the outdrives blades, to it's maximum.

the male outdrive "member" i believe is a LITTLE to long. i'm starting to see a little rubbing of the "member" within the female outdrive. causing me to think that it's not correctly letting the diff balls seat into the diff rings. i want to cut/sand this member down minimally to see the outcome. this is nothing new with yokomo's male "member" outdrives. i've seen past buggies get this cut/sanded down with results.

the slipper clutch spring is flimsy and cheap. mine seats crooked already when you tighten down the slipper clutch nut. it slips like crazy under the nut too. the spring also doesn't seat centered onto the outer clutch hub. i tried scoring the spring's outer flat wires (that seats up against the nut and outer clutch hub) with a heavy number piece of sandpaper so it could stay put. it didn't work so i switched over to the beefier heavy duty V2 associated spring, minus the outer cup. it seats much better.

has anyone noticed when you open up your diffs for a rebuild that your diff grease is black within the diff gear, diff rings, and diff balls? this isn't dirt. seems like the grease worked its way in there. i've seen this with both rebuilds i've had.

i don't know if this has been corrected with later kits, or if you guys have noticed this as well. i'll take some pictures and post them when i get the camera charged.

NoobRCDriver

iTrader: (13)

You guys that converted your front end to Hexes. I'm assuming you used Team Associated Hex Steering Block Set (SC10RS). My question is, what nuts did you use on the bottom and or did you use a AE ball stud? I can't find a nut that will fit inside the steering block.

mes

I only converted the rear end, cannot comment in that.