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Yokomo B-MAX2 buggy thread

Yokomo B-MAX2 buggy thread

Old 03-12-2012, 12:54 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by littlevette View Post
did any of you guys have a rough time putting on one of the thrust washers onto the thrust bolt? nearly making it impossible to slide it all the way down.

No, mine were ok. Only thing I can think of is another washer got mixed up in the install. But im sure that didnt happen.

Cheers
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:56 PM
  #182  
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SO is it true the Tamiya diff will fit? RAL....we need answers!
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:11 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by ViGiLaNtE351 View Post
No, mine were ok. Only thing I can think of is another washer got mixed up in the install. But im sure that didnt happen.

Cheers


i had to cut a strip of 1000 grit sandpaper and sand down the thrust bolts black annodizing. i then cleaned out the center hole of the thrust washer with a fine round file. after that the assembly was smooth.

the tranny feels a bit tight and rough. when spun it feels sluggish. i don't know if it's the bearings that need breaking in, or if i have to do some cleaning up inside the tranny cases.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:32 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by littlevette View Post
i had to cut a strip of 1000 grit sandpaper and sand down the thrust bolts black annodizing. i then cleaned out the center hole of the thrust washer with a fine round file. after that the assembly was smooth.

the tranny feels a bit tight and rough. when spun it feels sluggish. i don't know if it's the bearings that need breaking in, or if i have to do some cleaning up inside the tranny cases.
When you put the diff halves together without screws, can you see that they are bent? The moulds they came out of dont seem to be all that flash.
This will make the diff notchy when free spinning the top shaft. It should be super smooth.... i had to put the 2 halves in the oven at 150C for 10mins and pulled them out and put the bottom screw in and the top screw in with the motor plate to hold (rebend) the halves overnight. This helped alot, but honestly, it should never had to be done if Yokomo had some better QC.

Cheers
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:46 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by ViGiLaNtE351 View Post
When you put the diff halves together without screws, can you see that they are bent? The moulds they came out of dont seem to be all that flash.
This will make the diff notchy when free spinning the top shaft. It should be super smooth.... i had to put the 2 halves in the oven at 150C for 10mins and pulled them out and put the bottom screw in and the top screw in with the motor plate to hold (rebend) the halves overnight. This helped alot, but honestly, it should never had to be done if Yokomo had some better QC.

Cheers
yeah, the right tranny case was slightly obscure. i also noticed that on one the post that are up against the motor plate. the very top post (where the rear motor guard mounts to) had a gap of about 1/16" from the motor plate. for a second i thought of adding a spacer to accomodate this. but i just took out all the tranny screws and adjusted the motor plate around the tranny case. this did the trick and put the motor plate square onto on the tranny case. and removing that 1/16" gap.

that's a good tip on heating them up. i got to give that a try.

the car build and fitment was like butter, except the tranny. seems like they rushed it.

Last edited by littlevette; 03-12-2012 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:06 PM
  #186  
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My trans. was not super smooth when it was first put together, but a few minutes on the track and it was all better. Unfortunately, that's about when the outdrives started wearing out too.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:10 PM
  #187  
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lol
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Old 03-13-2012, 03:46 AM
  #188  
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I didn't experience any problems with the gear box and the thrust washers. I'm still waiting for my radio, so I don't know yet how fast the outdrives wear with a blinky mode 17.5 motor on sandy astroturf.
Hex adapters: The Proline adapters are a perfect fit, but require shimming between outer bearing and drive pin. As the drive shaft diameter directly behind the bearing is 5 mm, you need larger shims than 3/16". I ordered some nice blue Kyosho spacers (LA-253) that seem to fit perfectly.
I'm looking forward to racing the buggy soon; its my first 2 WD buggy since the Schumacher Cougar 2 in the 90s! I'm also using a shorty LiPo, the Vampire Racing 4400 mAh 50C.

Edit: German language built report online! Maybe the Google translator helps and the result isn't too funny...

Last edited by mes; 03-13-2012 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Link added
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:51 PM
  #189  
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Im running Blinky 17.5 with mechanical timing, and im running great lap times on our 37sec average track. Im doing 35secs, with a .92 consistancy over the last 3 races so im really happy with the way the car handles, ESPECIALLY last weekend as I had the Reedy Shorty pack in the car, which centralized everything... if I had to suggest anything, it would be to buy shorty packs. Full size LIPOs are great for stability on the ground, but in the air, being able to move battery to where your comfortable with is a big bonus. And yes...in 17.5, your outdrives will start to wear out within a few races.

Cheers
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:01 PM
  #190  
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Let's hope they fix the outdrives rather sooner than later... I wonder if I'll race enough to see them wear at all this year!
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:52 PM
  #191  
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Default if you're going to use rb5 diff halves...

Originally Posted by mes View Post
You could check if the RB-5 diff or maybe even just the outdrives (UM-515) are a direct fit. At least the bearing size is the same.
hiya guys,

I am a rb5 fanboy and I was prepared to do the big switcharoo this year (season) cos I've been running a rb5 since rb5 first popped the mold.

It's unfortunate that all the best ideas (durango dex210, tlr 22, yoke bmax2, schumy cougar sv... etc) are all hampered by durability problems.

And the bread and butter 2wd out there (rb5, trf201, b4.1 etc) are just plodding on without a complaint.

My take is, if you're buying a bells and whistles 2wd with price to match... and still have to jerry rig parts from other makes to make it work, You really might as well purchase one of those kits that already work well.

sorry for those who already bought bmax2s... It was also my intention to get a bmax2, but this is absolutely unacceptable. I'm prolly gonna get the rb5 again (yawn).

so much for trying out a new chassis... this requires immediate attention, Yokomo!

-Alexander
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
hiya guys,

I am a rb5 fanboy and I was prepared to do the big switcharoo this year (season) cos I've been running a rb5 since rb5 first popped the mold.

It's unfortunate that all the best ideas (durango dex210, tlr 22, yoke bmax2, schumy cougar sv... etc) are all hampered by durability problems.

And the bread and butter 2wd out there (rb5, trf201, b4.1 etc) are just plodding on without a complaint.

My take is, if you're buying a bells and whistles 2wd with price to match... and still have to jerry rig parts from other makes to make it work, You really might as well purchase one of those kits that already work well.

sorry for those who already bought bmax2s... It was also my intention to get a bmax2, but this is absolutely unacceptable. I'm prolly gonna get the rb5 again (yawn).

so much for trying out a new chassis... this requires immediate attention, Yokomo!

-Alexander
You are kidding, right? rb5, stripped idler gears and broken axles. trf 201, stripped idler gears. B4.1, front arms break if you breathe on them wrong. All of these buggies had problems that were fixed in later releases. If wearing out diff outdrives is the only problem this car has, I will be happy.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:02 PM
  #193  
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I don't read Japanese but I was told there was talk in a blog of hardened out drives. I'm sure they will fix this. Remember... This is Yokomo we are talking about here. I have to say the shocks build easily and feel really good. The "cartridge" portion is designed better then the xshocks from the bmax 4. No more c clip ring to hold the spacers and o-rings in place. Theres a cap that screws on the bottom that hold it all in place.

Whatever the issues are they'll be fixed. And as for regrets...the car is the current JMRCA champion already... What was that about the trf and rb5 again? How long have they had to iron those cars out?
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:32 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by RAL View Post
I don't read Japanese but I was told there was talk in a blog of hardened out drives. I'm sure they will fix this. Remember... This is Yokomo we are talking about here. I have to say the shocks build easily and feel really good. The "cartridge" portion is designed better then the xshocks from the bmax 4. No more c clip ring to hold the spacers and o-rings in place. Theres a cap that screws on the bottom that hold it all in place.

Whatever the issues are they'll be fixed. And as for regrets...the car is the current JMRCA champion already... What was that about the trf and rb5 again? How long have they had to iron those cars out?
Im VERY happy with how the 2wd and 4wd are on the track when i have my game on! Very stable, and lots more control than i had with my B4.1, and had some good gear and setups with that as well.

These just seem alot better to drive, i feel like i can throw it around a bit more without worrying too much and hurting it or losing control. No regrets at all. And yes, Yokomo surely will sort out the outdrives.

Cheers
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:42 PM
  #195  
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Default But that IS the point innit?

Originally Posted by igyrigged View Post
You are kidding, right? rb5, stripped idler gears and broken axles. trf 201, stripped idler gears. B4.1, front arms break if you breathe on them wrong. All of these buggies had problems that were fixed in later releases. If wearing out diff outdrives is the only problem this car has, I will be happy.
The point is that these companies have pretty much rectified the broken bits. Actually, I believe they were quite quick to release upgrade parts the moment stuff started breaking. I think it was a month or 2 after rb5 got released that the machined idler gears were made available, same for the trf 201. b4 is almost a vintage work in progress, but I have to say I still have my original team ed. (not factory team) b4 still working great (the one with the chassis that was supposed to break often, but I live in a hot humid country where plastics are less brittle). Also, I still use the white plastic idlers that come with my rb5 gear sets. They seem ok to me, not overly soft, but then our track here is looser then a street side ho.

Anyways, I'm not dissing the Bmax2, I'm actually quite keen to get one so that I can try a different buggy. I'm just saying the Yokomo has to jump on this like their lives depend on it (I would imagine it'll affect their global sales if word gets out). Plastic arms and parts can break, shocks can leak. but diff halves that wear out after a couple of runs is redonculous.

-Alexander
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