MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

+1 DO NOT USE BIRDCAGE BULLETS, THEY CAUSE NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS

boborc

iTrader: (1)

That's where I was starting to lean. Shows up on Hi draw applications. What do you suggest?? I like the idea of being able to switch things with out soldering all the time, especially trackside its quicker and at one track I have no a/c power.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Nothing wrong with bullet style connections its just that the birdcage style SUCK! TQ makes some nice ones as well as many others.

mconway

iTrader: (25)

I had the same issue where connectors would DE solder during racing 4wd class. Soon as I changed the bullets to NON birdcage style issues immediately was resolved 100%.

mconway

iTrader: (25)

I have been searching for a starting SC10 setup with folks using the Exotek chassis. With all the weight added, I'm assuming Springs, Oil weight, etc might want to start differently. I mainly run Med-Large outdoor tracks, med grip, hard pack dirt and often dusty conditions.
Thank you in advance for the help getting me in the right direction.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

shoot me a pm with your email, I have something you could try and see how it goes for you.

As for the discussion on bullets, when I was wanting to swap motors, I used castles 6.5mm bullets at the time. Excellent connections.

banditstpk

I there supposed to be any play in the steering?

TomErickson

I got a chance to test my light SC10 on an 8th scale track. I used the stock blue springs, RCshox c-Diff V2 and 2-stage pistons with 5k in both diffs. The truck was significantly better than ever. I had posted that I had some sort of driveline issue but I checked everything and it was fine. Love this truck now. I'm racing it tomorrow!

BenG477

iTrader: (1)

I picked up a M2C toe block last night and it did not come with a chart for the toe block settings, so I was hoping that someone here had a PDF, picture, or a link to the chart...

thanks

rippen

iTrader: (11)

Does anyone put a little black grease on the VTS trust bearing

GraphiteChassis

iTrader: (1)

I did once... it ruins the inside pad. Black grease all over it.

rippen

iTrader: (11)

I just rebuilt both diffs and I noticed that the thrust bearing was dry so I thought I would ask

MarqueeRc

I have done it, and works just fine for me. The key is to use a very minimal amount. I dab a dot on my finger and rub it up against the thrust bearing balls. Its like a thin film rubbed equally throughout the bearing, so that there is no clunky chunks of grease hanging around. Have been on the same thrust bearing for almost 2 years now. Think the manual even says to use a small amount on it. I just use a minimal amount so no excess grease gets flung around. Keeps it smooth and quiet imo.
On the other hand, i don't think its absolutely necessary, as that thrust bearing should last a while regardless.

rippen

iTrader: (11)

That's what I was thinking, just a small dab just to coat it.

mikeinsocal

hey rippen, I see you are using the same hobbywing setup I just put in my sc10 4x4 and im wondering what gearing you are using and what settings on your esc? how do you like it? thanx