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Old 05-18-2013, 04:02 AM
  #34081  
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you may want some garodiscs then, from what people have reported, you don't glaze those.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:40 AM
  #34082  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Lowered Servo Mod
What servo stands are you using? RC10GT2?
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:18 AM
  #34083  
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Originally Posted by BenG477
Hey I tried that set up on tuesday and really thought it improved the truck by making the front pull better/more.

Now my question is what is the perfered way to get the glaze off of slipper pads? and how does one propperly set up the slipper tension.. also is there a different spring on the one in the photo mine is black.
I just use a X-knife , easy to do just scape the glaze off .
Can clean many times and nothing beats the yellow pads performance on the track ..clean the pads about every 30 runs .

Silver Spring is the Sc10 4x4 slipper spring (91090) .
black spring is for Sc 2w (7486) suggest you stick with the black


Adjust the slipper by screwing the lock nut just before it touch's the nylon on the inside of the lock nut & use lock tight to help secure the nut .





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Use #1779 FT servo mounts

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-18-2013 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:45 AM
  #34084  
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Originally Posted by BenG477
Now my question is what is the perfered way to get the glaze off of slipper pads?
I'm using sandpaper 150.
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Use #1779 FT servo mounts
Thanks
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:31 PM
  #34085  
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Ok so I am a little confused about what is a Quad pad. In your photos WC I see only three pads. Are you counting the pad on the front side? Your instructions stated to add one pad and one disk which is adding to the two pads in the FT kit.

I installed the additional pad and the performance was not that much better. I think it is time for the RCShox Center diff for me.

Are you all using the RPM arms? I am thinking a lot about chassis flex on this vehicle. The RPM arms are not known for rigid performance. I am thinking about Carbon fiber plates for the arms as well like the 8th scale boys are using.
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:33 PM
  #34086  
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Another item I was thinking about was the rotation of the motor. The X-Factory 2wd kit has a 4 gear trans to get the motor rotating opposite to help traction. Do you think this chassis suffers from the gyro effect of the motor? Most 4x4s are running a motor in-line with the chassis. On-road cars have the motor more centered in the chassis which is mostly for weight balance.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:26 PM
  #34087  
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Originally Posted by TomErickson
Ok so I am a little confused about what is a Quad pad. In your photos WC I see only three pads. Are you counting the pad on the front side? Your instructions stated to add one pad and one disk which is adding to the two pads in the FT kit.

I installed the additional pad and the performance was not that much better. I think it is time for the RCShox Center diff for me.

Are you all using the RPM arms? I am thinking a lot about chassis flex on this vehicle. The RPM arms are not known for rigid performance. I am thinking about Carbon fiber plates for the arms as well like the 8th scale boys are using.
Tom

Easy to run the slipper to tight.

If you have threads showing above the lock nut ?
Its too tight ....
Should be easy to push the spur by hand to slip.

The main advantage the Quad VTS has is its ability to be run very loose .

This is why VTS brings more traction ,smoother acelleration & handling.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:26 PM
  #34088  
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I must be the rare case then because I feel that the slipper is keeping me from accelerating as quickly as the three diff trucks. I put the bigger (HD) slipper pad on the inside for the front drive and that really helped my loose condition coming on to the straight away. I beleive that it gave it more drive to the front and pulled better.. Then I put in the extra pad on the VTS side and it seemed to pull harder still over all. BUT I want more and the slipper seems to be coming off pretty warm..

Would the AE coupled inner plate or the exoteck front locker make any difference in the way it pulls off the corner?

So the Black spring from a 2wd sc10 is the spring to run on the 4wd?... I checked mine again and it is silver.. So would the Black one have more pressure?

Should the front lift when you hold both rear tires and blip the throttle like a 2wd buggy should?

I am doing really well with the truck at JCP rc raceway but am having troubles when I am in traffic. It seems like I cant accelerate like the three diff trucks but I am as fast at the middle of the straight.. Any thoughts?
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:38 PM
  #34089  
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Originally Posted by TomErickson
Ok so I am a little confused about what is a Quad pad. In your photos WC I see only three pads. Are you counting the pad on the front side? Your instructions stated to add one pad and one disk which is adding to the two pads in the FT kit.

I installed the additional pad and the performance was not that much better. I think it is time for the RCShox Center diff for me.

Are you all using the RPM arms? I am thinking a lot about chassis flex on this vehicle. The RPM arms are not known for rigid performance. I am thinking about Carbon fiber plates for the arms as well like the 8th scale boys are using.
The RPM arms for this truck do not flex and are much better but I am working on arm braces for the stock arms.

Originally Posted by TomErickson
Another item I was thinking about was the rotation of the motor. The X-Factory 2wd kit has a 4 gear trans to get the motor rotating opposite to help traction. Do you think this chassis suffers from the gyro effect of the motor? Most 4x4s are running a motor in-line with the chassis. On-road cars have the motor more centered in the chassis which is mostly for weight balance.
BINGO!! If you do some searching on this thread you will find that months ago I made a new motor plate with an idler gear to rotate the motor in reverse. Good new is that it pretty much cured the handling issues but the bad news is that i could not get an idler gear to last more than a pack or two before it would eat itself alive. So to to answer your question yes the truck has a gyro effect because of the way it spins. If you spin the motor the same way in a 2wd buggy it will have the same jumping and handling characteristics.

Those of you that are going through the chore of adding pads and sanding with 120 grit and all of that , just install garodisc, they never glaze or lose adjustment EVER!! ANd will handle any amount of power or abuse you can put to them!
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:46 PM
  #34090  
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Default Candrell's Belt Tensioner

Here's another interesting mod for the Sc10 4x4 for every to enjoy.

Its very reliable & performs awesome ...


uses one FT servo mount & one B4 Carbon C hub

Look carefully and you can see the mount screw underneath on the top deck . image #499

A kool mod....
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-img0497.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img0496.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img0500.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img0493.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img0499.jpg  

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Old 05-19-2013, 06:32 AM
  #34091  
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great from MantisWorx there.

By the way Marcus, when you compare the RC Shox Center Diff to a VTS slipper as far as the VTS Slipper being run "Tighter" versus "Loose", would a correct comparison to the Center Diff (V2) would be how many pins you run, with the more pins making it "tighter"?
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:38 AM
  #34092  
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Originally Posted by Cain
great from MantisWorx there.

By the way Marcus, when you compare the RC Shox Center Diff to a VTS slipper as far as the VTS Slipper being run "Tighter" versus "Loose", would a correct comparison to the Center Diff (V2) would be how many pins you run, with the more pins making it "tighter"?
hey i have a question how do you guy think a 6500 60 c 2s lipo will push this 4.5 ballsitc around it a smc lipo. im finally switching.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:35 AM
  #34093  
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I think it will be fine. I was getting like 12 minutes on some 5200mah lipos with a Tekin Pro4 motor.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:41 PM
  #34094  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I think it will be fine. I was getting like 12 minutes on some 5200mah lipos with a Tekin Pro4 motor.
ok thank. Does any one use the 19 over drive clicker for the front. i put mine on to try it in the street i can not tell if i like it or not. i figure if my lap time suffer im gonna go back to running 20/20 locked. i have the 19 overdrive locked down as of now. but next race not tell june 9. the 19 should give more front wheel spinn right and turning.
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:21 PM
  #34095  
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Originally Posted by Cain
great from MantisWorx there.

By the way Marcus, when you compare the RC Shox Center Diff to a VTS slipper as far as the VTS Slipper being run "Tighter" versus "Loose", would a correct comparison to the Center Diff (V2) would be how many pins you run, with the more pins making it "tighter"?
No its not even close. when a slipper slips you are losing power and acceleration no matter how it is set, which is why some will tell you that it seems like they are losing acceleration when the slipper is set "proper". With any differential it does just that , differentiates between the front/rear and left/right. Since there is no slippage full power is either going to the front, rear or a combination of the two. Now with that said if your pins/fluid are too light by nature the diff will send power to where it can go to via the easiest path. So as the weight transfers to the rear and the front gets light power will go towards the front. This is why the V1 dif was so badass on loose tracks because when grip is low so much power goes to the front that the rear will not spin barely if at all. when the V1 dif was tried on high grip tracks you would lose acceleration because the rear tires would immediately gain grip forcing all the power to go to the front and the front wheels would "dif out". So those of you that were on this thread remember when Cam and I were testing and testing and testing to find the right combination of balls and pin location to allow the dif to adjust to these situations. Some see the dif as just a spur gear with holes in it and balls but trust me there is more to it than that. I honestly believe that an RCShox center dif with all pins will outperform any slipper setup on any track and any grip levels. Here is something to think about, having to run 30k front dif fluid is not optimum. It works but it is just a bandaid because of the slipper. By definition what does thick front dif fluid do?
  • push on entry
  • on power steering
If you swap out the slipper for a center dif and no other changes what happens? the truck will not turn and you are forced to try and get the rear to rotate via roll center! With a slipper the front and rear are locked so the truck is never really planted, its always "moving" around. With a center dif since the front and rear are seperate you get greater corner speed. Want to test this theory? take a slipper truck, turn the front wheels to lock and drive about 15 circles and you will see that the truck is not in the same place as it was when you started. do the same with a center dif and the truck will be in almost the same identical spot.

It has been proven that the slipper can obviously work but its a compromise. It has also been proven that a center dif can also work, in the end it just depends on preference. But a slipper will NEVER work good on loose conditions where as a center dif will work on both high bite and low grip conditions.
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