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SC10 4x4 Thread

Old 02-06-2014, 07:18 AM
  #35896  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Mantisworx doesn't want you to toast your stuff so he is just wanting to make sure you are all setup right.

We all do!

Keep us informed, and if you can get some vid of your runs that would be cool to see too.
I didn't take it as a bad thing. I work in surgery and when we say "finger tight" it's meant that it is tight by hand, not by power.

Believe me, I don't want to toast anything either because I have a hard enough time driving when it's set up right, let alone when it's making a wonky sound.

I appreciate all the help.

Is the spring just a standard AE diff spring or is there another aftermarket on?
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:23 AM
  #35897  
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I believe this is the spring you need:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZWK2&P=7

confirm with the factory team manual.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:25 AM
  #35898  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I believe this is the spring you need:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZWK2&P=7

confirm with the factory team manual.
Cool thanks.

I wasn't sure if there was another aftermarket one.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:44 AM
  #35899  
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What happened to Wild Cherry? I haven't seen him on this thread lately.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:47 AM
  #35900  
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Originally Posted by Surgetek
I just did it finger tight and then a half turn more. It's not cranked down. I'll give it a try but also just order another spring.

BTW Sharks, I'm taking today at work to read your thread on RCSC.

Surgetek, yeah it's a long read but lots of info and feedback from others related to their experiences with the SC10 4x4.
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:08 PM
  #35901  
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Originally Posted by Shark413
What happened to Wild Cherry? I haven't seen him on this thread lately.
He's around.

If you look at the new B5 threads he is very active there.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:35 AM
  #35902  
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Ok I am now a believer in the RCShox CDiff, night and day difference at the track last night.
The car was way more consistent that it had been with the VTS, I was making jumps with just a little blip of the throttle that I used to have so much trouble with, just because of the inconsistency of the power.
I am basically running Sharks "Lite" setup at 4.6 lbs with a 8.5T LRP 540 motor "picked it up used for $20", Hobbywing SCT and Reedy 3800 Shorty packs, 6 pins in the diff, plenty of power and punch, actually did a couple of drag races with my buddy who has a Losi with Tekin pro4 4600 and it was almost a dead heat. Loving the truck now I was very frustrated before and actually have a Tekno on order but after the CDiff I might send it back.

My only complaint is the fuzz on the gear from the drilling is there an easy way to clean that up? Not dissing your product, it is what it is, but spent a lot of time getting it ready to run, but it was worth the wait.

Randy
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:24 AM
  #35903  
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do you mean where the diff balls go?

I think on mine I kind of bumped them free with an xacto knife at the time. But confirm with Mantisworx on what he suggests for sure.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:25 AM
  #35904  
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So how is the SC10 4x4 i was thinking of picking one up or the Tekno.

Anyone know if AE will make a FT Prolite 4x4 in the near future?
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:38 AM
  #35905  
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Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
So how is the SC10 4x4 i was thinking of picking one up or the Tekno.

Anyone know if AE will make a FT Prolite 4x4 in the near future?
Haven't heard anything on the future of the prolite, I woudn't expect a factory team version of it.

I think the sc10 4x4 is a great vehicle with some quirks.

There is a rumor that a revised sc10 4x4 is on they way so you may want to consider that.

For picking between the two vehicles, I would suggest identify your track conditions and what things you value out of the vehicle.

The SC10 4x4 is killer indoors. its in its element there, especially when you go with a lightweight setup.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:59 AM
  #35906  
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In addition to the differences Cain mentioned,
There's a big difference between the two when it come to wrenching as well. The Tekno is a 1/8 layout so its open and easy to wrench on.
The AE is a very unique chassis that takes more time to get to the diffs so your teardown time (or tuning change) is longer.
Both are durable as far as plastics and running into things but the Tekno's driveline is much more durable. Again, 1/8... built to deal with a more powerful motor than what is run in the SCT class.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:06 AM
  #35907  
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Originally Posted by Randidly
Ok I am now a believer in the RCShox CDiff, night and day difference at the track last night.
The car was way more consistent that it had been with the VTS, I was making jumps with just a little blip of the throttle that I used to have so much trouble with, just because of the inconsistency of the power.
I am basically running Sharks "Lite" setup at 4.6 lbs with a 8.5T LRP 540 motor "picked it up used for $20", Hobbywing SCT and Reedy 3800 Shorty packs, 6 pins in the diff, plenty of power and punch, actually did a couple of drag races with my buddy who has a Losi with Tekin pro4 4600 and it was almost a dead heat. Loving the truck now I was very frustrated before and actually have a Tekno on order but after the CDiff I might send it back.

My only complaint is the fuzz on the gear from the drilling is there an easy way to clean that up? Not dissing your product, it is what it is, but spent a lot of time getting it ready to run, but it was worth the wait.

Randy
I was machining the gears from stock pcs and that plastic is not machine friendly, imagine me trying to clean up 100's of those spurs every week!! The V3 will be machined from billet Delrin and will have no burs at all. I will offer a conversion for those that have the V2 as once i start pre-orders the V2 spur will no longer be available. Everything is pretty much ready to go and the new pistons are SICK!! I recently purchased new machines, new software and a different material source. If you thought the pistons were good before wait until you feel the new ones!
Pre-order on the dif and conversion will begin in a few days I STRONGLY suggest that any of you that want one should pre-order. it helps me out and if you dont pre-order the next batch will be weeks away from the first release due to production runs of my other products.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:31 AM
  #35908  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Haven't heard anything on the future of the prolite, I woudn't expect a factory team version of it.

I think the sc10 4x4 is a great vehicle with some quirks.

There is a rumor that a revised sc10 4x4 is on they way so you may want to consider that.

For picking between the two vehicles, I would suggest identify your track conditions and what things you value out of the vehicle.

The SC10 4x4 is killer indoors. its in its element there, especially when you go with a lightweight setup.

Thanks Guys....

Yes it will be a 100% indoor truck.
What are you guys doing to make it a prolite truck?

Any rumors on the release date of the ver2 sc10 4x4?

Also will my rims work from my sc10.2 on the 4x4?


Many thanks...
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:59 AM
  #35909  
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Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Thanks Guys....

Yes it will be a 100% indoor truck.
What are you guys doing to make it a prolite truck?

Any rumors on the release date of the ver2 sc10 4x4?

Also will my rims work from my sc10.2 on the 4x4?


Many thanks...
Shark has a great breakdown, basically taking out a variety of uneeded stuff and using a shorty pack up front.

Nothing new on the rumors.

your SC10.2 rims assuming they are hex will work. +3mm offset rims are popular.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:51 PM
  #35910  
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Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Thanks Guys....

Yes it will be a 100% indoor truck.
What are you guys doing to make it a prolite truck?

Any rumors on the release date of the ver2 sc10 4x4?

Also will my rims work from my sc10.2 on the 4x4?


Many thanks...
Once you go lite you will never go back. It is much easier to go lite than it is to go heavier. To go lite you basically remove stuff. The SC10 4x4 is already pretty light, so if you remove the nerf bars, replace the huge rear bumper with a RPM skid, remove belt covers, etc. and go with a shorty pack you will lose a lot of weight. And please ignore the Exotek chassis in the pictures and use the stock chassis (which is lighter) when you go lite.


The shorty mod only requires one extra hole in the chassis, and the stock stick pack battery holder.


I used the FT saddle pack hold down hardware and a scrap piece of CF (you could use aluminum, plastic, whatever to make a battery strap).


I just added notches in each end that work with the saddle hold down hardware, and they screw into the forward nerf bar mounting holes.


RTR 5lbs 4.2oz


Stock plastic chassis with the forward shorty mod using B4.2 thumb screws.
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