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SC10 4x4 Thread

Old 09-02-2013, 09:29 PM
  #34981  
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Your right 06 , my bad...

Fotgot

Comes with 3-2 & 3-3 rear toe blocks.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:41 PM
  #34982  
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Everyone that I've known to try the 3-2 went back to 3-3. Maybe carpet or some super high bite surface would warrant 3-2.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:49 PM
  #34983  
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06

forgot all about the part , will be pulling out of pit bag tomorrow.

been looking for more rotation on sharp 180 turns.

Just might help.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:56 PM
  #34984  
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You will get more rotation for sure.
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:06 AM
  #34985  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Everyone that I've known to try the 3-2 went back to 3-3. Maybe carpet or some super high bite surface would warrant 3-2.
I tried 3-3 on very bumpy med/high bite a single time and went back to the 3-2 immediatly xD
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:07 AM
  #34986  
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Maybe I'm backwards, been a while.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:58 AM
  #34987  
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Not backwards 06

my trucks rotation is about a 1/3 slower then the B4 ,so any improvement could shave a few tenths off my lap times.

You guys know what I'm talking about, trucks drag from extra CVA & belt make like a brake slowing down corner speed.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:38 AM
  #34988  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Everyone that I've known to try the 3-2 went back to 3-3. Maybe carpet or some super high bite surface would warrant 3-2.

thats opposite , the more antissquat you add the more initial rear traction you get but the truck will tend to rotate more on entry, on a rough track you want less anti squat because as you accelerate it stiffens the rear making the truck hard to control "on throttle" through rough patches, but off power it is better. So in a nutshell on a rough track you want less antisquat and on a smooth track you want more anti squat, which will give you more on power steering.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:42 AM
  #34989  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Maybe I'm backwards, been a while.
Here is what Hudy says on Anti-squat:

REAR ANTI-SQUAT ANGLE CHARACTERISTICS

Less anti-squat (fl atter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track

More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
Another Source:

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ng-anti-squat/

What is Anti-Squat?

Anti-Squat is best described as Caster for the rear wheels…it changes the relation of the inner hinge pins parallel to the ground. The more anti-squat the vehicle has, the less the suspension will squat during acceleration. Anti-Squat is most effective from a stand-still.
Navigation Arrow Tuning with Anti-Squat

Most vehicles allow the adjustment of Anti-Squat in similar ways: somehow adjusting the height of the front or rear hingepin mounts of the rear suspension arms.

Adding Anti-Squat will make the car Squat less during acceleration. This will cause your car to track straight on straightaways. It will also make your car push coming out of corners, but loose entering corners.

Less Anti-Squat will result in the opposite: a little less forward traction, more stable entering corners, and will track through bumpy sections much better.
And here is some info from AE's setup guide:

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...HandbookV2.pdf

Anti-squat adjustments are available on the rear of most modern buggies and trucks. Anti-squat is typically adjusted by either replacing the rear suspension arm mounts, or placing washers or wedges under one end or the other of the mount before tightening the mounting screws. This results in a change in lifting the front edge of the arm higher than the rear edge.

Anti-squat does exactly what you might guess by its name, it prevents the rear end of the car from squatting under power as the car accelerates and weight transfers rearwards. Anti-squat does also have some other effects (as with any adjustment, there’s always a trade off). Let’s take a look at the effect of altering anti-squat on both acceleration and cornering.

Increasing Anti-squat. If you add anti-squat, your car will (in general) get more ‘driving traction’ and hence accelerate faster. When you come out of corners, you will be able to use more throttle and your car will be more stable. But (and it’s a big But), when you back off to turn into a corner, your
car will have less rear grip. This might result in you spinning out when you back off the throttle. Adding anti-squat also affects the way your car drives through bumps on the track. If the track is bumpy right where you want to accelerate, anti-squat is not a good thing, it will make the rear of your car very ‘bouncy.’ On the other hand, if the rough stuff is in a place where you are cruising on constant throttle, or even decelerating, then anti-squat will actually help your car to ‘cruise’ through the bumps more smoothly.

Decreasing Anti-squat. When you decrease anti-squat you lose rear ‘driving’ traction. Your car will be a little more prone to power slides and fishtails. However, you will have more traction on a trailing throttle, resulting in your car being more stable into corners. It will also accelerate better through bumpy parts of the track.
I drive very "on-power" so the higher antisquat settings have worked well for me on my Tekno, but I didn't like how 3-3 felt on my SC10 4x4. Go Figure.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:48 AM
  #34990  
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Simplified version

More squat = more forward bite & less side bite

Less squat = more side bite & less forward bite

Less squat is smoother on the bumps.


Last edited by Wild Cherry; 09-03-2013 at 11:44 AM.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:48 AM
  #34991  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Not backwards 06

my trucks rotation is about a 1/3 slower then the B4 ,so any improvement could shave a few tenths off my lap times.

You guys know what I'm talking about, trucks drag from extra CVA & belt make like a brake slowing down corner speed.
Curious, how fast is the rotation without the +8mm Mod as far as the hub risers go?
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:41 AM
  #34992  
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I have increased anti-squat in my RC8.2 to cruise through rollers (whoops) easier. This worked for me. What this did was allow the rear wheels to skip over the bumps instead of diving into the valleys. I did not notice much lose in traction on corners.

At that time I was using Avid -1mm rear inserts and the least amount of anti-squat possible. increasing 1mm in the C-plate made a large difference.

I have to assume that the 3-2 plate in the SC10 is already a larger amount of anti-squat and the 3-3 is too much. Maybe on carpet 3-3 would be good.
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:53 AM
  #34993  
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Originally Posted by TomErickson
I have increased anti-squat in my RC8.2 to cruise through rollers (whoops) easier. This worked for me. What this did was allow the rear wheels to skip over the bumps instead of diving into the valleys. I did not notice much lose in traction on corners.

At that time I was using Avid -1mm rear inserts and the least amount of anti-squat possible. increasing 1mm in the C-plate made a large difference.

I have to assume that the 3-2 plate in the SC10 is already a larger amount of anti-squat and the 3-3 is too much. Maybe on carpet 3-3 would be good.
I agree, when i was running my 8.2 i had to run max antisquat and toe to get it to settle down, E buggies like it and i think its because of the weight, My TeamC buggy is the same way.
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:09 PM
  #34994  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
can't adjust anti squat on the sc 10 4x4, comes with 2 degree..

may be a after market part that offers some adjustment.

what's wrong with your rides anti squat ?
i actually use the 3-2 block on 4x4 i can drive it just fine for me and the lady does ok with it she sometime kick out the back to far for her to bring it back. i love too drift the turns.just tryiung to hook it up more for her. but the main problem is the 2wd for the kids the have a yank methode instead of a smoot pull on the trigger. but i was thinking why cant we just add a shim under the rear of the truck like the 2wd to get more squat.
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:16 PM
  #34995  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Here is what Hudy says on Anti-squat:



Another Source:

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ng-anti-squat/



And here is some info from AE's setup guide:

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...HandbookV2.pdf



I drive very "on-power" so the higher antisquat settings have worked well for me on my Tekno, but I didn't like how 3-3 felt on my SC10 4x4. Go Figure.
accelerate, anti-squat is not a good thing, it will make the rear of your car very ‘bouncy.’ On the other hand, if the rough stuff is in a place where you are cruising on constant throttle, or even decelerating, then anti-squat will actually help your car to ‘cruise’ through the bumps more smoothly.

Decreasing Anti-squat. When you decrease anti-squat you lose rear ‘driving’ traction. Your car will be a little more prone to power slides and fishtails. However, you will have more traction on a trailing throttle, resulting in your car being more stable into corners. It will also accelerate better through bumpy parts of the track.
according to this part here i might be going on the right track for some of it. or im thinking a stiffer front spring to give the rear just a little less drift mode for them i can drive on [power all day long and kill these guy the track next time i go to the track im gonna shot some pic of it and you guy can see how bad it get. i would say a video but i can only do that on a phone so it dont think it will turn out good. ok after reading this stuff for the last couple of day i think im gonna leave the anti squat alone for now and maybe up the shock piston in the rear for a bigger hole or try stiffer front springs.

Last edited by imrob; 09-03-2013 at 03:49 PM.
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