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Old 08-14-2013, 06:47 AM
  #34786  
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Originally Posted by sundance_kid76
I just started to read the Hudy setup guide , so think i will soon start to figure out how everything works
Thats a good idea, one thing to keep in mind is that its always about a balance between front and rear. If your truck pushes it can easily just be too much rear grip and vice versa so dont always chase your setup from the end that is not acting right, make sense? Sense you are learning only make one change at a time but go extreme so you can really feel the difference, I have found that on this truck the front alignment really makes a huge difference in handling.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:41 AM
  #34787  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Look for another brand " rear" spring that is stiffer for the best rate & performance .
Front spring rates are very stiff & not designed
for a rear suspension . .
please elaborate as to why a front spring outside of how stiff it is cannot be used on the rear, assuming the stiffness of the spring is what you need?
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:45 AM
  #34788  
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Originally Posted by Cain
please elaborate as to why a front spring outside of how stiff it is cannot be used on the rear, assuming the stiffness of the spring is what you need?
I was going to ask the same thing but its a moot point, he does not know. And yet once again its not a true statement. you dont design a spring for front or rear its wound up wire, spring rate is spring rate. Linear,progressive,length and wire gauge are what you have to alter. Only difference is length.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:23 AM
  #34789  
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sundance_kid76

Also go through the Ae tuning section in the instructions & review the team set-ups offered on www.rc10.com
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:42 AM
  #34790  
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Default Sc10 4x4 shock building tips

The Ae 13mm Team shock is a very good shock but some tips here can help improve their performance ...


Most use emulsion design , brings the best traction ....

Bladders add extra pack and are
useful for big jumps & landings ...


The 13mm shock comes with 2 x-ring O ring seals .

They are mounted on the top & bottom of the seal cartridge .

If you assemble & slide the shaft back & forth with no oil you can notice the shaft binding or sticking .

A easy cure is to remove the top Xring and assemble as normal.

removes all the stick & no leak's ...

This mod will bring a plusher smoother ride , traction improves as well.


The 13mm shock comes with shaped pistons, remember to mount the piston flat side up inside the bore.

Most use the 1.2 pistons..
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:57 AM
  #34791  
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around here, bladder with the bleed screw removed is giving the best performance.
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:01 AM
  #34792  
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blue


What kind of track conditions are you using the bladder on ?
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:54 AM
  #34793  
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rough track conditions the 2 stage RC shox pistons work excellent.

Forget the name of the brand but there is an oring from an aftermarket manufacturer that to me felt smoother using 2 of there rings than even a single stock ring.
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:15 PM
  #34794  
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TSR.
I used the club spec, pro spec is supposed to be even less stiction but they say you will get a little bit of leakage so that's more for someone that rebuilds every day of driving.
Club specs leaked nothing and were super smooth.
Their diaphragms are much better than stock as well.

http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...10-4x4-ft.html
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:48 PM
  #34795  
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I used those before 06...

single Xring will not leak, very free & no stick .
Compares to the Ae 12mm in smoothest ..

May be another ring better ...
Advantages to X ring is however is cost ....
Single X-ring mod is almost "free" , most already
have that seal in their pit bag ...
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:56 PM
  #34796  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
blue


What kind of track conditions are you using the bladder on ?

This kind:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


The clay is something we call "Manitoba Gumbo" When the groove comes in, walking down the straight your shoes squeak like you're walking across a professional basketball court!
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:01 PM
  #34797  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
I used those before 06...

single Xring will not leak, very free & no stick .
Compares to the Ae 12mm in smoothest ..

May be another ring better ...
Advantages to X ring is however is cost ....
Single X-ring mod is almost "free" , most already
have that seal in their pit bag ...
Yeah, true... if you run single X you get 2 rebuilds for one.

I had no leak from the TSR's and tried the single X before I spent the $$ but got a lillte seepage even using shock snot on a set that was a few months old so they should have had some swell to seal already. Only tried it once so maybe I didn't give it a fair shake but I really like the TSR silicone. As good as Mugen silicone.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:04 PM
  #34798  
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Great Video Blue, sure miss my stinky truck ....


Looks just like one of our N/w tracks , Skagit River WA .....


If I were you ? Stick with the bladder's ...

Try the emulsion though , your grip will improve in comparison ...
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:09 PM
  #34799  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Yeah, true... if you run single X you get 2 rebuilds for one.

I had no leak from the TSR's and tried the single X before I spent the $$ but got a lillte seepage even using shock snot on a set that was a few months old so they should have had some swell to seal already. Only tried it once so maybe I didn't give it a fair shake but I really like the TSR silicone. As good as Mugen silicone.
I didn't really feel much if any improvement .
Thought they did perform just every bit as well however....

I'm kinda low budget , so been using the single X for almost year now just cus they are cheep .
BTW
I only pre oil the rings before assembling these days...
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:42 PM
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curious if you could do 1 oring with the TSRs, how good would they be in comparison ...
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