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SC10 4x4 Thread

Old 06-09-2013, 10:14 AM
  #34366  
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I have a couple of questions about some parts any info I can get will be great
First is the sway bars what will they do to the truck and what track conditions are they best for?
Next the exotec front slipper what does it do and do I need any other parts to make it work or buy just that?
Last are the yellow springs harder or softer than the blue ones and when should the yellow be ran?
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:38 AM
  #34367  
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Swaybars are good for every track, they reduce traction and body-roll. They're best at high traction conditions, but you'll need them anyway. Yellows are harder than blues
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
shark, do you think its possible to do graphite towers on the truck? Reason I ask is that I recall that company with the knockoff SC10 4x4 1/8 buggy setup looks like it uses flat metal shock towers, depending if that design would bolt to the sc10 4x4, could do some graphite ones?
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...9#.UbThX6vn_IU

Ive been thinking about getting these and changing the towers to play with shock angle/geometry.

Cain I just got the rcshox center diff and pistons... what diff oils did you run with the center diff? No longer need the 30k in front?
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:35 PM
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For those that have mounted the steering servo on the lower chassis how much lower is the servo? Is it 3mm or more?
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:47 PM
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Going to sell a rolling chassis with spektrum servo #6040. thinking $200
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:59 AM
  #34371  
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Originally Posted by sgtlt
Going to sell a rolling chassis with spektrum servo #6040. thinking $200
Not a bad price. Can you detail what your Roller is? Is it the FT version with upgrades or not?
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:31 AM
  #34372  
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Originally Posted by GraphiteChassis
Ive been thinking about getting these and changing the towers to play with shock angle/geometry.

Cain I just got the rcshox center diff and pistons... what diff oils did you run with the center diff? No longer need the 30k in front?
I ran 7K front, 5K rear. from what I recall it was common to see ranges from 10K down to 5K Front, with 5K rear being pretty much the set standard.
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TomErickson
For those that have mounted the steering servo on the lower chassis how much lower is the servo? Is it 3mm or more?
its just over 5mm
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cantrell8
its just over 5mm
Thanks!
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:15 PM
  #34375  
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Can someone explain to me the v2 slipper,exotec locked front, and the center diff and the differences between them all I am running stock slipper now and want to up grade but don't know witch way to go?
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:31 AM
  #34376  
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Originally Posted by jrk078
Can someone explain to me the v2 slipper,exotec locked front, and the center diff and the differences between them all I am running stock slipper now and want to up grade but don't know witch way to go?
I will give it a shot:

1) V2 Slipper: This is just an improved disk design and larger spring over the original 10th scale parts. I beleive this is the stock slipper that comes with the RTR and stock kits. The disks are needed as parts for the RCShox cDiff.

2) VTS Slipper: This comes in the FT Upgrade kit. This is an upgraded slipper from AE that increases the surface contact between pads and disks. It adds a stator that is keyed to the shaft to provide the added surface area. Some call the stock VTS a VTS3 cause it uses 3 pads. The VTS4 nomenclature is used when you add one more stator and pad increasing the slipper to 4 pads. I am using this right now and it is not too bad with a 2-pole 550 motor.

3) Exotec locked front Disk: This is a product from Exotek that removes the inner pad and replaces it with a new disk that is keyed to the spur gear. With this part you would lock the front drive to the spur gear so there is no slipping at all between the motor and the front drive belt. Some say this is a big improvement since you can tune the slipper for the rear only which is interesting. I have no experience with this.

4) Coupled vs. Decoupled slipper: I added this one for you since this is an option from AE that has been tested a lot. Originally called "pinned". The stock slipper set-up is a de-coupled slipper or front and rear are not coupled. To couple the front drive to the rear an optional rear top shaft and front drive disk is available that keys the disk to the shaft (Disk AE#91188 and Shaft AE#91180). This makes the drive line identical to the B44.2 type of drive. The slipper is adjusted for launch and landing only. You could call this Full-Time 4WD.

5) RCShox Garodisks: Another improvement item is the Garodisks from RCShox. These are a set of disks that replace the AE ones. I have an original set and they do provide a more consistent slipper control. I was able to dial in the stock slipper with these before the VTS came out. If you want a more refined slipper these are great and don't cost a ton.

6) RCShox cDiff: This is a Ball diff that replaces the stock slipper arrangement and provides a split of torque between the front and rear and no slipping. The V2 version also provides pins to tune the diff action so you can manage the amount of torque that goes to the front on acceleration much like changing the diff oil in a oil filled center diff on other cars. Many have stated on this thread that this is the best performing transmission input control device available for this truck since it doesn't waste motor energy through slipping. I just ordered one of these for my truck after wrestling with the stock and VTS4 slipper.

My ranking in order front best to worst:
1) RCShox V2 cDiff
2) VTS with Garodisks
3) VTS with stock disks
4) V2 with Garodisks
5) Stock V2 slipper
The other options (Exotek locker, coupled, etc) are more variations of tuning to me.

I hope this helps you. If you have the stock kit or RTR and have not purchased the FT Upgrade kit I would recommend that you get that first. The other items in the kit are important and the VTS is included. That said I feel that $60 for the RCShox cDiff is going to be worth it for me to get the control I want without slippers. I would recommend that.

Last edited by TomErickson; 06-11-2013 at 06:44 AM.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:14 AM
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I can't physically play around with my cars right now since I am moving soon. In the mean time I can plan and research a lot. Weight seems to be a big topic with this truck so I wanted to understand all the modifications people are making.

To start with I was looking for the geometric center of the chassis. This is the point halfway between the diffs. Weight forward of this point would add more to the front than the rear and vise versa. It looks like this point is between the stock holes for the partition wall which seems to be the center of the FT saddle pack layout. This means that the saddle packs would be centered on the chassis which makes sense. Knowing this I started to determine some weight balances analytically to start targeting a layout that can get the truck to 50/50 or 25/25/25/25 balance at the lowest overall weight assuming that the front and rear are very similar weight. I added some weight for the slipper to estimate best.

1) Adding front weight: It seems that all options for battery placement require some added weight to the front of the vehicle to approach the target. Some add weight on each side of the servo. Some are lowering the servo by mounting it to the lower chassis. I am assuming that adding weight along the center line is the best option. I am planning to add flat weights under the servo as close to the center line as possible nesting into the cross pattern reinforcement. The amount to add depends on battery layout but I calculate that a minimum of 10g per side or more is required.

2) Battery layout: We have many options. They are; stick pack, FT saddle pack . rear saddle pack, dual shorty, dual 1S, single shorty right, single shorty transverse, and single shorty centered, and I suppose single shorty transverse mid. That is a lot of options if you have all the batteries! The battery layout that gives the lightest balance closest to target is the Shorty transverse forward. The center Shorty provides a very good balance side to side but still requires more weight forward. Dual shorty is pretty good and doesn't require as much forward added weight but it is two batteries!

3) Motor weight: All of my analysis shows that the weight of the motor defines how much weight you need to add to balance this truck out. The left rear is always the heaviest point on the truck so you never want to add weight to that side cause you would have to add weight to the other three corners to make up for it. Choosing a lighter motor is very important if you want to keep the weight down. I am running a NovaK 550 motor which is on the heavy side of all Short Course 4x4 motors.

I hope to back this up with actual measurements once I get back to my cars. I will test some of these options with 4 mini scales under each wheel and post the details I find.

Thanks to all of those that have posted their set-ups and photos. They have added a ton of value to this thread and my analysis.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:11 AM
  #34378  
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Roller for sale in case anyone's interested! never seen the track!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...it-roller.html
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:31 AM
  #34379  
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Great info and break down.

I just completed a graphite brace, battery locator for dual shorties, much like what Kinwald runs. I am not to final assembly yet, but after reading all this i have a few ideas, and questions.

I to am gonna run the 550 Ballistic, i was planning on mounting the Speedo and the Reciver on the opposite side of the motor and adding 1/2 oz maybe to balance it out. Do you think that will work?

FWD, in the servo area, i hae mounted 3 oz of weight as well.

The truck has 16mm BB shocks, and i am cosidering adding the Exotek chassis. I am going for a 7lb truck. Outdoor, loose track, with some big jumps. As well i have done all WC's mods, no belt covers, no gear covers, lowered servo etc. I just plan on running a cover over the chassis to keep some of the dirt out.

I will post pics when done.

Thanks, Krom.



Originally Posted by TomErickson
I can't physically play around with my cars right now since I am moving soon. In the mean time I can plan and research a lot. Weight seems to be a big topic with this truck so I wanted to understand all the modifications people are making.

To start with I was looking for the geometric center of the chassis. This is the point halfway between the diffs. Weight forward of this point would add more to the front than the rear and vise versa. It looks like this point is between the stock holes for the partition wall which seems to be the center of the FT saddle pack layout. This means that the saddle packs would be centered on the chassis which makes sense. Knowing this I started to determine some weight balances analytically to start targeting a layout that can get the truck to 50/50 or 25/25/25/25 balance at the lowest overall weight assuming that the front and rear are very similar weight. I added some weight for the slipper to estimate best.

1) Adding front weight: It seems that all options for battery placement require some added weight to the front of the vehicle to approach the target. Some add weight on each side of the servo. Some are lowering the servo by mounting it to the lower chassis. I am assuming that adding weight along the center line is the best option. I am planning to add flat weights under the servo as close to the center line as possible nesting into the cross pattern reinforcement. The amount to add depends on battery layout but I calculate that a minimum of 10g per side or more is required.

2) Battery layout: We have many options. They are; stick pack, FT saddle pack . rear saddle pack, dual shorty, dual 1S, single shorty right, single shorty transverse, and single shorty centered, and I suppose single shorty transverse mid. That is a lot of options if you have all the batteries! The battery layout that gives the lightest balance closest to target is the Shorty transverse forward. The center Shorty provides a very good balance side to side but still requires more weight forward. Dual shorty is pretty good and doesn't require as much forward added weight but it is two batteries!

3) Motor weight: All of my analysis shows that the weight of the motor defines how much weight you need to add to balance this truck out. The left rear is always the heaviest point on the truck so you never want to add weight to that side cause you would have to add weight to the other three corners to make up for it. Choosing a lighter motor is very important if you want to keep the weight down. I am running a NovaK 550 motor which is on the heavy side of all Short Course 4x4 motors.

I hope to back this up with actual measurements once I get back to my cars. I will test some of these options with 4 mini scales under each wheel and post the details I find.

Thanks to all of those that have posted their set-ups and photos. They have added a ton of value to this thread and my analysis.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:42 PM
  #34380  
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Default spring balance

Hi Guys...

is any of you guys have done spring balance on sc10? if you do, can you please let me know which spring and postition on tower and arm....

thanks
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