R/C Tech Forums - SC10 4x4 Thread

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Is there any diff without slidebearing that fits in the sc10 4x4?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96 (Post 11337781)

I had a Sc104x4 when it came out. I sold it because i couldnt get it to handle the way i liked it. I just picked up another to run this winter. I understand the c diff. but what is this 8mm mod. confused and interested. My plan mods are the Ft upgrade kit for now, then the C-diff later. Whats a good gearing for a 4.5 550 novak on a medium size clay track. Whats a good diff fluid to run in the diffs?

8mm rear camber mod is great for med to high traction conditions .

Reduces chassis roll & less rear grip .....

Way it works /....

Helps the truck stay flat in the sweeper & slide a bit instead of digging in & traction rolling over.....

550 Novak 4.5 = 15t or 16t

recommend Ae diff oil

ft diff oil = 25,000k

rear diff = 7000k

hey wc my novak 550 4.5 dont like a 15 tooth it ran ok but the gtb2 esc was hot iam at 12 62 and it ok now

Vito I use a 16t myself with the Novak 550 , maybe you have the timing boosted way up ?

12 T way to slow

I do use a 12T on my Reedy 550 4.5 however ..

it has no timeing in it it was made for a slash 4x4 drop in kit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prostreet314 (Post 11338427)

No, it's not the radio gear. My servo (hitec 7940) is fresh and has no slop or centering issues. My Ko propo Helios is working properly as well, since I run 4 other classes and none of those cars have the same problem. Something is not right on the truck but I'm still trying to find what it is.

Did you make sure you fully tightened the two screws that hold the servo mounts to the front top plate? I had an issue with my servo coming un-centered and swaying. These two screws were not tight enough.

Make sure the servo arm isn't hitting underneath the belt tunnel.

Be explained to me why 8mm mod would cause more traction roll

Pro Street

Check under your chassis , see if you installed the correct screws (#89454) to mount the ft gear box . If you use too long a screw ,will block the steering rack from moving all the way .

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11339731)

As you can see OP or anyone else, this is the dilemma about the 8mm mod as there are different opinions on what it does. I tried it, and I differ on opinion on what I saw (more traction on the rear).

Best bet give it a try.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vito (Post 11339819)

it has no timeing in it it was made for a slash 4x4 drop in kit.

what do you mean by hot? Do you have an actual temperature measurement?

here is a quote from someone I trust on a breakdown of the 8mm mod in his opinion:

Quote:

The 8mm mod plants the rear and and reduces traction rolling.
Now, how you want to go about using this to your advantage is a whole different story. The reason behind the mod is that keeping the angle of the upper link the same by raising both ends equally lowers the roll center, so in that regard it makes sense that people are doing this mod to try and make the rear end more predictable. That is as simple as it gets.

Now for some reasons why you shouldn't do the 8mm mod automatically. The higher the traction, the less need there is (from the standpoint of 'planting' the rear end) to run the 8mm mod. If you are perfectly content with the handling of your car, but are strictly looking to reduce traction rolling, I would look elsewhere (say, lowering ride height a millimeter or two and going to a stiffer sway bar). At the ROAR Nats, Maifield didn't run the 8mm mod because the track had enough traction and he needed the car to transition very quickly from left to right in all the high speed chicanes and flowing corners. There is a point at which lowering the roll center too far creates a lazy feeling car that is slow to transition, so while it would have given him more rear traction, the car wouldn't have transitioned as quickly. If the track was slower with more 180's and fewer switchbacks, I'm willing to bet he would have been running the 8mm mod.

I use it.

I ran it on a high to medium bite, traction rolled everywhere. I took it off for the exact same track, layout, setup, everything. Stopped traction rolling, and TQ'd every qual.

I put it back on in my local basher track and the feeling is amazing with it.
--------

The mod is for loose surface, dear god why can't we get past this. :lol: The 8mm mod plants you 'too much' in highbite. You just need to try it and see for yourselves.

This is reality, not Wild Choke theology.

Thanks Cain that they will clarified it for me thank you
Metrics I also had made my own center diff and then it later upgraded to be to do it I noticed a fair difference between the two in the regular at least on acceleration but offered sorry's and felt about the same the biggest advantage I would say is the added bearing that you provide with the kit

I want some a while cherries Kool-Aid it must taste pretty good because this slipper is not needed on this truck